Double sided sealant tape for weatherstrip retainers

[joshwilson3]

Does anyone know where to get the double sided sealant tape for the weatherstrip retainers? I've called all the auto glass shops I know of, and they either don't know what I'm talking about, or tell me to go to the store to get some emblem tape. Got a part number by any chance?

I noticed the sealant tape for the Targa top retainer has failed. So, I plan on pulling the weatherstripping off and replacing the sealant tape on the back side of the weatherstrip retainer.

 

[joshwilson3]

Bump. What are you guys using to seal inbetween the frame and weatherstrip retainers for the Targa top? Originally GM used double sided sealant tape, but I can't find it. So, I need to use something else to seal it, but want to make sure I use the right stuff so I can take it apart again in the future if I need to.

 

[joshwilson3]

Does anyone know what to use in place of the factory double sided sealant tape that goes inbetween the frame and weatherstrip retainer? I need to get it done tommorrow so I can check it when it rains in the next day or so, so I can finish putting the inside together before winter.

 

[gmjunkie]

Does anyone know what to use in place of the factory double sided sealant tape that goes inbetween the frame and weatherstrip retainer? I need to get it done tommorrow so I can check it when it rains in the next day or so, so I can finish putting the inside together before winter.

It's 1/16th X 1 in. double sided 3M body side molding foam attachment tape,You can get it at a Automotive Paint and Supply store!

 

[joshwilson3]

It's 1/16th X 1 in. double sided 3M body side molding foam attachment tape,You can get it at a Automotive Paint and Supply store!

Is that the same thing as emblem tape? Someone did mention not to use emblem tape as you'll end up bending the aluminum retainers if you try to remove it in the future.

Someone did say to get some double sided tape from someplace like Lowes'. Can you get that stuff at Lowes? I think they said it was located by the windows.

I'll have to look around as I don't think I have an auto paint store. I might could try Napa, but I'm betting it would be something they'd have to order and would take a week to get here. Though, they usually can't find anything I need.

If I can't find any, could I just use strip caulk? I had figured a windshield shop would have some, but no one does, or doesn't know what I'm talking about, or tells me to go to Autozone.

 

[gmjunkie]

Is that the same thing as emblem tape? Someone did mention not to use emblem tape as you'll end up bending the aluminum retainers if you try to remove it in the future.

Someone did say to get some double sided tape from someplace like Lowes'. Can you get that stuff at Lowes? I think they said it was located by the windows.

I'll have to look around as I don't think I have an auto paint store. I might could try Napa, but I'm betting it would be something they'd have to order and would take a week to get here. Though, they usually can't find anything I need.

If I can't find any, could I just use strip caulk? I had figured a windshield shop would have some, but no one does, or doesn't know what I'm talking about, or tells me to go to Autozone.

Yeah,it's more or less like emblem tape,You can get it in several widths up to 5 inch.Napa should have it if they sell automotive paint and body shop supplies, 1/4,1/2,and 1 inch are used allot on cars now days!!

 

[joshwilson3]

Yeah,it's more or less like emblem tape,You can get it in several widths up to 5 inch.Napa should have it if they sell automotive paint and body shop supplies, 1/4,1/2,and 1 inch are used allot on cars now days!!

I'll have to look around Napa and Lowes tommorrow. I know someone mentioned getting tape from Lowes. Never seen tape 1 inch wide before though. Just the stuff you see at Wal-mart.

If I can't find any. What else could I use? Willcox had recommended strip caulk.

 

[gmjunkie]

I'll have to look around Napa and Lowes tommorrow. I know someone mentioned getting tape from Lowes. Never seen tape 1 inch wide before though. Just the stuff you see at Wal-mart.

If I can't find any. What else could I use? Willcox had recommended strip caulk.

Yeah,that'll work!!

 

[joshwilson3]

Yeah,that'll work!!

The widest tape I could find is 7/8" at Autozone. I was gonna get some strip caulk at Napa, but they wanted $20 for a giant box of it. More than I wanna spend. Went to Lowe's to look for a smaller box, and they didn't have any strip caulk. And now Napa is closed for the weekend.

They do have some ribbon sealer at Autozone. It is a long giant roll of sealer. Don't know if that is the same thing as strip caulk, but it is real thick and would need to be flatened out. I think it is Butyl. Don't know if that would be the right thing to use. I don't want it to stick too well, cause then you bend the retainer when you remove it in the future.

 

[Brian Smith]

Josh, I just did this and found that you don't, in my opinion, need double sided adhesive tape. Since, on my coupe this stuff is sandwiched between molding mounting frames that this was more than adequate. The good Lord has seen fit to pour on the water here in Texas since I installed the new molding, and this "gasket" material, and I haven't had a single leak. The price is also incredibly cheap. I have lot's left over (for the next project?). I researched many vendors and found that McMaster-Carr part number 9454K17 (Neoprene & Cork Strip Gasket 1/32" thick, 3/4" wide 100 foot roll was $10.22 per roll) met my needs admirably!

To make the hole for the fastners to penetrate you poke an icepick into the hole from the gasket side and roll it around the interior of the hole and it will punch out in seconds. Started to use a paper single hole punch but that was way too much trouble. I did the bow over the top rear from start to finish in less than five minutes!

 

[joshwilson3]

Josh, I just did this and found that you don't, in my opinion, need double sided adhesive tape. Since, on my coupe this stuff is sandwiched between molding mounting frames that this was more than adequate. The good Lord has seen fit to pour on the water here in Texas since I installed the new molding, and this "gasket" material, and I haven't had a single leak. The price is also incredibly cheap. I have lot's left over (for the next project?). I researched many vendors and found that McMaster-Carr part number 9454K17 (Neoprene & Cork Strip Gasket 1/32" thick, 3/4" wide 100 foot roll was $10.22 per roll) met my needs admirably!

To make the hole for the fastners to penetrate you poke an icepick into the hole from the gasket side and roll it around the interior of the hole and it will punch out in seconds. Started to use a paper single hole punch but that was way too much trouble. I did the bow over the top rear from start to finish in less than five minutes!

Where did you get that at? If it is online, then with shipping added, it would probably be easier for me to either get the tape or 3M strip caulk. You have the width correct. As I measure the OEM tape, and it is 3/4" wide. I also found that you have to seal the other side of that metal piece that gets bolted down with the retainer.

Though, I ripped the weatherstripping. So I hope Willcox Targa top weatherstripping will work with my original windshield and rear frame weatherstripping.

Though, I think I found my problem. I noticed half the glass was seperating from the base. So, I'm gonna have to figure out how to finish tearing the plastic trim off so I can take the top to someone to reglue it. I believe the PO had the top reglued at some point, which obviously didn't work. Glad I found it before the top flew off and hit another car. :WThough I say it has been like this since I owned it as the top always made noises.

 

[Brian Smith]

Here's the website. Just input the part number into the search engine and you'll be damn close. Then look for the part number and sort all those materials by material and dimensions. Cost me $6.00 shipping and two days to get it here. I am a biomedical engineer and buy lots of stuff from this firm. Much broader spectrum of products than say Graingers.

McMaster-Carr

 

[joshwilson3]

Here's the website. Just input the part number into the search engine and you'll be damn close. Then look for the part number and sort all those materials by material and dimensions. Cost me $6.00 shipping and two days to get it here. I am a biomedical engineer and buy lots of stuff from this firm. Much broader spectrum of products than say Graingers.

McMaster-Carr

I appreciate your help. I think it would be easier to just pick up an $8 roll of tape from Autozone or a box of strip caulk at Napa.

Do you have any experiance at regluing the top? That is my main concern now. I'll need to find someone who can reglue the top down. I'd like to be able to remove as much stuff as I can to keep the cost down. I already have the weatherstripping and retainers off the top. I'm not sure how to remove the plastic as I believe there is metal under the plastic trim that is actually glued to the clear plastic top.

I may call the dealer as their glass man that sealed up my windshield 2 years ago seemed familure with C4's from what I remember. So, he may already know the correct adhesive that needs to be used as I've heard of people having to get their top reglued several times cause it wouldn't hold.

My main concern is the shop lining it up correctly when they reglue it. Though, I'm guessing there must be something in place that tells you where to lay it down at.

 

[Brian Smith]

Josh, I cleaned the "rubber" molding trim(I believe it to be a plastic) very well and scuffed it with a Scotchbrite pad. Then clean the glass carefully with ammonia and allow to dry. I then applied RTV (room temperature vulcanizing silicone) carefully. Hold it in place with small tabs of blue painters tape placed strategically to ensure a smooth presentation of the trim. When removing the tape pull at sharp shear lines away from the seal. When applying the RTV be sure to get all the glass (covered by this trim) and LET IT CURE BASED ON THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE. RTV is wonderful stuff!

 

[Brian Smith]

I'm not sure what you mean by "regluging the top". I removed all the weatherstrip off of my car when I painted it. I remember the top was a particular PITA! I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive from O'Reilly and applied it to both the seal and the seal mounting thing. I let dry until tacky and put them together. To insert into the molding channels I used a yellow body filler spatula (or sqeegee or whatever it's called). I did my layout work and made several reference marks on the molding channel and the molding after ensuring the fit was what I wanted before I even opened the tube of 3M. Prep work is critical here. I used Scothcbrite green pads to remove all the old molding residue and adhesive. NOW THAT IS A PITA! When clean to my satisfaction I used POR 15 paint and an airbrush to repaint the molding channels and they really looked great when done. Did find out one thing I didn't know...that paint (POR 15) oxidizes (becomes dull)in the sun pretty rapidly and you have to shoot clear over it to keep the gloss.

 

[joshwilson3]

I'm not sure what you mean by "regluging the top". I removed all the weatherstrip off of my car when I painted it. I remember the top was a particular PITA! I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive from O'Reilly and applied it to both the seal and the seal mounting thing. I let dry until tacky and put them together. To insert into the molding channels I used a yellow body filler spatula (or sqeegee or whatever it's called). I did my layout work and made several reference marks on the molding channel and the molding after ensuring the fit was what I wanted before I even opened the tube of 3M. Prep work is critical here. I used Scothcbrite green pads to remove all the old molding residue and adhesive. NOW THAT IS A PITA! When clean to my satisfaction I used POR 15 paint and an airbrush to repaint the molding channels and they really looked great when done. Did find out one thing I didn't know...that paint (POR 15) oxidizes (becomes dull)in the sun pretty rapidly and you have to shoot clear over it to keep the gloss.

The acrylic top is seperating from the base. About half of it is delamenated. I'll have to get that pulled, cleaned up, and reglued. If not, then one day the top will go flying while I'm driving down the road. I'm gonna call the dealer to see if his glass man can do it. I'm gonna also call Melrose to see what glue they recommend as I' ve heard of people having to redo it several times as it keeps seperating.