Driver Side Window

[Ncbosshoss]

Well,

Out of the blue today and without warning my driver's side window stopped working. I researched some previous posts and see where others have seen this. I am disappointed in that you'd think that a $50K+ vehicle would not have these petty little problems. It is more of the aggravation of going to the dealer and waiting for the car or driving off in a Cavalier (sp) while my brand new vette sits in a dusty parking lot.

3000 miles on it and have had it in for a recall, leaking right rear shock replaced, clip on driver seat recline missing so handle kept coming off, and now what appears to be a window motor.

Let's see if I can talk the dealer into ordering a new motor to have in case that is the problem so I don't have to wait a week for it.

Chris

 

[c4c5specialist]

Hi there,
I would also suggest that the door control module be checked as well as the connections.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[curtbriggs]

Electric window fix.

Subject: 99 Electric window

Several years ago I had a problem on my 1999 C5 M6 coupe passenger window, inop in the full up position. I'll bet I never operated that window more the ten times since I bought the car new. I unsuccessfully tried to get information on what component in the window system had the highest failure rate. I removed the motor and regulator gear box last year and checked them both, they were good. That made me more suspicious of one of the modules. I finally left the car with a reputable Chevy dealer thinking that with their diagnostic equipment, they could pin point the faulty component and repair the window. I also had an issue with my parking brake auto adjuster and had no parking brakes since the car was less then a year old. The dealer said I had a broken gear box and I must have driven with the e-brakes on and worn out the shoes. They also said that they couldn't use their diagnostic equipment to test the window system. I told them to forget it and took my car home.

The IPC showed fault codes for the left and right door modules. The volt meter showed a voltage drop when any window switch was pressed but indicated a voltage drop longer in the down position. A click could be heard when any switch was pressed. I didn't need any parts and I think I found the problem. The up travel stops in the regulator were set too high (by the vender?) and the motor was cable bound in the full up position which over loaded the motor so it wouldn't operate (thermal switch?). The spring on the cable sheath was coil bound on the regulator (in the full up position) and I had to take the case off the motor and turn the armature to relieve the bind. Vol. 3 chapter 8 in the shop manual didn't cover up stop adjustment. The glass is positioned in the opening in the full up position and is adjusted with the clamps on the regulator. This window was moving much higher into the weather striping at the roof then on the driver side. I adjusted the regulator stops (which also lowered the window position) and the system has operated properly for a month now.

There was a service bulletin out about gear box/motor failure because of window drag on the weather stripe and recommended a rubber lube. I doubt if this is a long term fix for miss adjusted up stops.

My e-brake problem was cause by the brake shoes not adjusted to fit the drums at the factory. This puts the brake lever beyond 55 degrees auto adjustor range.
Good luck, Curt

Capt. Curtis H. Briggs

Rogersville. TN