Electric Fan Turn Off And Turn Off.. ..For 67 Heaven Or Any one Else..

[Viet Nam Vett]

Been having a discussion with The Heaven in ref to Electric Fan Turn On and Turn Off Problems. I'm posting pic's here in ref to our conversation. Seems that our fans don't turn off due to the sensor turn on temp and the thermostat static temp.
I have added a swithch fo the fans as well as a Bright L.E.D. to indicate when the fans are on... Since neither Heaven Or I can hear them running due to our exchaust level.:L

I plan on checking with Tom Dewitt about these sensors as far as turn on and turn off temps. I think the sensor turns on at 187* and the Thermostat in the 502 is a 190*. SO it seems we that one is fightingthe other..

The switches added here are just an added feature for control.

Here some pic's of switches I have added..

Pic of the Fan Switch Mounted below the dash showing the tiny L.E.D. that indicates Fan On

This Pic Shows The Switch in The Auto On Mode with The L.E.D. Lit showing the Fans are Running...

Here Is The Electric Fuel Pump Control Rocker Switch.. Rocked to the Left is Pump On.. Center Posistion is Pump Off.. And Rocked to The Right ( Momentary..) Posistion..is for Priming the Carb Prior to Starting...

The Bright Light is ...Heh..... YOU GOT NO OIL PRESSURE....

 

[bossvette]

On my 76 the control relay has a lead that is connected to the ACC circut to power the relay (low amperage) so that when the Ignition is off the fan goes off.
Think about it back in the dark ages before electric fans the fan stopped turning shortly after you shut down your motor. And except for some improperly cooled monsters there were little bad effects.

You could accomplish the same thing by wiring your thermostatic switch controling the fan relay to be powered by the ACC side.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

On my 76 the control relay has a lead that is connected to the ACC circut to power the relay (low amperage) so that when the Ignition is off the fan goes off.
Think about it back in the dark ages before electric fans the fan stopped turning shortly after you shut down your motor. And except for some improperly cooled monsters there were little bad effects.

You could accomplish the same thing by wiring your thermostatic switch controling the fan relay to be powered by the ACC side.

Thanks B-Vett..

I like the idea of being able to run the fans after shut down for a min or so to cool down the rad and fluid. The switch will eventully be wire as a Manual Run ..Auto Run.. and off. In the Auto run mode it will be wired to the ACC side.

Till I work out the sensor prob I'll just leave it as is..

 

[bossvette]

I used a "Universal" Black Majic by Flex-a-lite and by wiring it that way it runs a short time after shutdown you were also given the option of manual switching. The thermostat is built right in the fan control unit and works much better then the "clamp on" kind IMO

Summit has them in colors now, damn I'll have to get a blue one

but seriously I drove my 76 daily march to snowfall from 1999 till I bought the C5 in 2004 with no problems except when I knocked the wire for the fan control off when cleaning the engine:eyerole

 

[Kid_Again]

You know, u-da-man

I just hooked up my DeWitts fan with the controller and had the very same problem. As usual, I'll just wait for you to solve the problem and I'll just copy what you do. Livin' la vida loca!!!

I'm now installing the electric water pump and THAT will add another variable so it's only a matter of time before I break down at your place again.

See you soon, I'm sure.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

You know, u-da-man

I just hooked up my DeWitts fan with the controller and had the very same problem. As usual, I'll just wait for you to solve the problem and I'll just copy what you do. Livin' la vida loca!!!

I'm now installing the electric water pump and THAT will add another variable so it's only a matter of time before I break down at your place again.

See you soon, I'm sure.

Ok.. Problem solved... New Device in route.... Programable Low Temp And Programable Hi Temp..capability...also has Vari Speed Control at low temp ramping to high speed at high temp....

Dude..It's Pulse Width Modulated.....Note For Kid...Not a Micro Biologist Chemical Engineering term..

Just Throw Money at it untill you fix it.....:L

 

[67HEAVEN]

Ok.. Problem solved... New Device in route.... Programable Low Temp And Programable Hi Temp..capability...also has Vari Speed Control at low temp ramping to high speed at high temp....

Dude..It's Pulse Width Modulated.....Note For Kid...Not a Micro Biologist Chemical Engineering term..

Just Throw Money at it untill you fix it.....:L

(Watching from a safe distance.) otfl

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

(Watching from a safe distance.) otfl

502 BB Conversion....$15,000.00

Getting the fans to run correctly...$28,650.00...

Priceless.....

 

[67HEAVEN]

It's a beautiful January freakin' 23rd in the Great White North, and I'm just about to head out in Heaven to my workout appointment.

Can life get any better?

 

[Kid_Again]

Hmmm...OK, then i wired mine incorrectly and will have to look at it again, i think i may have feedback from the hot wire that goes into the controller unit....


..yup, that's the same controller that i bought and the first time i programmed it, i couldn't get the temperature over 180* to set the high point...it was about 55* outside and the fan was running at about half speed...that's ONE big advantage of a sb over the bb


...yup, got the same gizmo, pulse width modulated, osmium-impregnated flap valve and twin thermocoupled infinite loops grounded by six solid state Van Halen clouds- got it all for christmas



seriously, though, i thought you bought that controller, which is why i bought it..it cost as much as the fan..the controller needs constant power to remember the settings....geez, i thought that they would have gone with flash memory

 

[Kid_Again]

...which reminds me to highjack this thread YET AGAIN......trial fit that moroso girlie man small block electric water pump and the belt from the crank pulley to the alternator JUST clears the bottom of the pump so it looks like the trophy for most idler pulleys will have to go to someone else....we'll see

..can i get a trophy for having the fastest spinning alternator???????


...how about a trophy for the most bling on a midyear?

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Hmmm...OK, then i wired mine incorrectly and will have to look at it again, i think i may have feedback from the hot wire that goes into the controller unit....


..yup, that's the same controller that i bought and the first time i programmed it, i couldn't get the temperature over 180* to set the high point...it was about 55* outside and the fan was running at about half speed...that's ONE big advantage of a sb over the bb


...yup, got the same gizmo, pulse width modulated, osmium-impregnated flap valve and twin thermocoupled infinite loops grounded by six solid state Van Halen clouds- got it all for christmas



seriously, though, i thought you bought that controller, which is why i bought it..it cost as much as the fan..the controller needs constant power to remember the settings....geez, i thought that they would have gone with flash memory

So...you bought the Spal...FAN-PWM..??

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

For got to add...

Did you also use there Sensor # FAN-PWM-TS..??

 

[Kid_Again]

Yup, got the PWM booger...what the heck is the PWM-TS?...all i know is that i got that 3/8" NPT water temperature sensor that came in the kit

...the whole thing works really well to cycle the fan at variable speed but i thought that i wired it so that the fan would not work with the battery disconnected, but the PWM booger would retain it's memory....APPARENTLY NOT!


....just a matter of a few dozen more relays and a 6 GigaWatt blast from the town hall during the height of a lightening storm.....goin' back in time!

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Yup, got the PWM booger...what the heck is the PWM-TS?...all i know is that i got that 3/8" NPT water temperature sensor that came in the kit

...the whole thing works really well to cycle the fan at variable speed but i thought that i wired it so that the fan would not work with the battery disconnected, but the PWM booger would retain it's memory....APPARENTLY NOT!


....just a matter of a few dozen more relays and a 6 GigaWatt blast from the town hall during the height of a lightening storm.....goin' back in time!

The "Part Number "FAN-PWM-TS" Is the special Temp sensor designed for the PWM. The FAN-PWM-TS..has a 2 wire socket designed to mate with the PWM.

Did you also get the 8 page install instructions with the PWM showing all the possiable fan connections with the unit.?? Maybe you boggered something up in the install.

Go to www.spalusa.com Go to..On Left Side of Screen Fans.... Then select accessories Scroll down to the FAN-PWM-TS ...AND ALSO LOOK FOR THE INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS....on PWM

 

[JohnZ]

Electric fan control technology has come a long way since 1996 when I built my Grand Sport; I had a thermostatic control on it (non-programmable), but didn't trust it. In the photo below, the item just above the steering column is a 3-position toggle switch. In the neutral position, the control was in charge, and the yellow LED just above it came on any time the fan was energized (fed from the fan motor, not the control). If the control failed, flipping the toggle "up" over-rode the control and fed power directly to the fan motor manually (temp gauge climbing and no yellow light). If the control failed "on" (points stuck closed, fan won't shut off), flipping the toggle "down" killed the power to the control.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Electric fan control technology has come a long way since 1996 when I built my Grand Sport; I had a thermostatic control on it (non-programmable), but didn't trust it. In the photo below, the item just above the steering column is a 3-position toggle switch. In the neutral position, the control was in charge, and the yellow LED just above it came on any time the fan was energized (fed from the fan motor, not the control). If the control failed, flipping the toggle "up" over-rode the control and fed power directly to the fan motor manually (temp gauge climbing and no yellow light). If the control failed "on" (points stuck closed, fan won't shut off), flipping the toggle "down" killed the power to the control.

Ahh Yes John.. The good old days...1996... :L . No what you mean though. Even with this wizbang Programabale control I'll still have an override. But there could also be a problem ..If and I say if ..I read Kid_Again's post correctly.

He vaguely mentioned something about when power is disconnected from the box that it loses memory. This is a problem as I always hit the Master Power Shut Down when I put my car to bed.

Now if he reads this maybe he'll clarify the above...

 

[Kid_Again]

The "Part Number "FAN-PWM-TS" Is the special Temp sensor designed for the PWM. The FAN-PWM-TS..has a 2 wire socket designed to mate with the PWM.

Did you also get the 8 page install instructions with the PWM showing all the possiable fan connections with the unit.?? Maybe you boggered something up in the install.

Go to www.spalusa.com Go to..On Left Side of Screen Fans.... Then select accessories Scroll down to the FAN-PWM-TS ...AND ALSO LOOK FOR THE INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS....on PWM

Well........yes and no

...yup the FAN-PWM-TS booger mates via a proprietary connector to the PWM goober...yup, we've got all them thingies...and yes, i do have the instruction manual with all the different combinations and even more importantly, i actually read and understood the instructions

the problem i had was that i ALWAYS disconnect the battery when i shut it down (something about a previous dash fire that drove me in that direction but i digress YET again)...so, when wired per the Spal directions (WHY the Italians are a leader in the manufacture of radiator fans is simply beyond my comprehension), when i killed the power, FAN-PWM-TS booger forgot all about it's pre-set limits....ATSA' NO GOOD

...hence, the need to wire it properly for my application, as opposed to wiring it per the instructions


....i THINK the founder of Spal was named Tony.....'Yo "T", LIKE the FAN!!

I'll be on the road for the next few days so i won't be able to post but that's the situation that i face right now

ttfn

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Well........yes and no

...yup the FAN-PWM-TS booger mates via a proprietary connector to the PWM goober...yup, we've got all them thingies...and yes, i do have the instruction manual with all the different combinations and even more importantly, i actually read and understood the instructions

the problem i had was that i ALWAYS disconnect the battery when i shut it down (something about a previous dash fire that drove me in that direction but i digress YET again)...so, when wired per the Spal directions (WHY the Italians are a leader in the manufacture of radiator fans is simply beyond my comprehension), when i killed the power, FAN-PWM-TS booger forgot all about it's pre-set limits....ATSA' NO GOOD

...hence, the need to wire it properly for my application, as opposed to wiring it per the instructions


....i THINK the founder of Spal was named Tony.....'Yo "T", LIKE the FAN!!

I'll be on the road for the next few days so i won't be able to post but that's the situation that i face right now

ttfn

OK... Of To the Rine Land...Cool.. Well then it looks like a small power on al the time lead to the Goober box is in order.. Hopefully this can be done without causing the goober to turn the fans on... Talk to you when you get back... Stay away from the Big Red Lit Picture Windows.....:L

 

[Kid_Again]

"Stay away from the Big Red Lit Picture Windows.....:L"


.... but NOT me, no siree...