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emission stuff?

  • Thread starter Thread starter grpups
  • Start date Start date
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grpups

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need help. if no emission inspections are required, what emission control parts can i remove without affecting engine operation/performance. will i need to make any adjustments, eg. carb, etc.? :confused thanks.......
 
Usually the "No emission test required" means that the inspector wont put the probe up the tail pipe to test emissions. They are supposed to do a visual inspection to verify emission equipment is present that came from the factory, reguardless of age. Most inspectors don't but you never know.
 
gr,


Usually, if the emission equipment is removed, the engine will seem to perform better. The torque would seem to increase and the car may even "chirp" the tires easily. No major adjustment was needed when I removed the air pump off my L81 motor.

However, I suspect that others here may have some input as far adjustments are concerned. Maybe Paul (C4C5Specialist) or Mike (6874Stingray) will chime in some suggestions.

Here in New Mexico, I am in the unique situation (perhaps) that the county in which I live does not require smog check, but the county in which I work does. The Motor Vehicle Division folks have asked me if I drive my vehicle more than 60 days a year into the county, and I of course said that my Vette is a "pleasure" driving vehicle...:eyerole .
 
GerryLP said:
...and I of course said that my Vette is a "pleasure" driving vehicle.
GREAT ANSWER! (applause)
Gads! Are they trying to generate revenue from out-of-county now? Do you have to smog your vehicle that does drive more than 60 days into the county?
Heidi
 
GerryLP said:
gr,


Usually, if the emission equipment is removed, the engine will seem to perform better. The torque would seem to increase and the car may even "chirp" the tires easily. No major adjustment was needed when I removed the air pump off my L81 motor.

However, I suspect that others here may have some input as far adjustments are concerned. Maybe Paul (C4C5Specialist) or Mike (6874Stingray) will chime in some suggestions.

Here in New Mexico, I am in the unique situation (perhaps) that the county in which I live does not require smog check, but the county in which I work does. The Motor Vehicle Division folks have asked me if I drive my vehicle more than 60 days a year into the county, and I of course said that my Vette is a "pleasure" driving vehicle...:eyerole .

thanks for the reply:w . how did you plug the air injector connections to the engine? also, i was thinking of replacing the stock air cleaner system with a simple and clean setup (K&N filter with a chrome cover).....will that affect anything?
 
78SilvAnniv said:
GREAT ANSWER! (applause)
Gads! Are they trying to generate revenue from out-of-county now? Do you have to smog your vehicle that does drive more than 60 days into the county?
Heidi
Heidi,

They asked me that question when I registered the vette recently at the office. I had let the registration lapse, since I was messing around with it, and the registration was due in February but the car was not ready.

The registration for the other car I did over the internet, and the question did not come up. I plan to register my F150 XLT through the web as well.

gr,

Do you mean the manifold check valves?
 
The air injection system isn't what robbed power - that pump draws less than 1/8hp; what robbed the power was the carburetor calibration, "ported" spark vacuum, and retarded timing with a very slow, conservative centrifugal advance curve. Richening up the jets and metering rods a bit, re-curving the distributor, and connecting the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum will wake it right up.

The holes in the exhaust manifolds that accept the tube nuts on the A.I.R. air manifolds are threaded for 1/4" NPT fittiings; either 1/4" NPT pipe plugs or 1/2"-20 allen head plugs will work fine to plug the holes after you remove the air manifold tubes.
:beer
 
JohnZ said:
The air injection system isn't what robbed power - that pump draws less than 1/8hp; what robbed the power was the carburetor calibration, "ported" spark vacuum, and retarded timing with a very slow, conservative centrifugal advance curve. Richening up the jets and metering rods a bit, re-curving the distributor, and connecting the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum will wake it right up.

The holes in the exhaust manifolds that accept the tube nuts on the A.I.R. air manifolds are threaded for 1/4" NPT fittiings; either 1/4" NPT pipe plugs or 1/2"-20 allen head plugs will work fine to plug the holes after you remove the air manifold tubes.
:beer
thanks, although the A.I.R. doesn't rob power, I'll remove it to make the engine less cluttered. I'm new into this so if it's not too much trouble, could you be more detailed/specific about achieving the other recommendations. appreciate it:beer
 
Before you remove it, keep in mind that very few 1977 Corvettes were equipped with A.I.R. Only L-82's, California emissions vehicles, and high altitude vehicles.

If yours is not an L-82 than your 'vette must be California Equipped (since no high altitude packages were sold.) This does make your car into a bit of a rarity. I doubt it would add value to your car in the future, but it might make the A.I.R. System components hard to replace for a future restorer. If I were you, I'd take the A.I.R. system off and store it neatly away.
 
photovette said:
Before you remove it, keep in mind that very few 1977 Corvettes were equipped with A.I.R. Only L-82's, California emissions vehicles, and high altitude vehicles.

If yours is not an L-82 than your 'vette must be California Equipped (since no high altitude packages were sold.) This does make your car into a bit of a rarity. I doubt it would add value to your car in the future, but it might make the A.I.R. System components hard to replace for a future restorer. If I were you, I'd take the A.I.R. system off and store it neatly away.
thanks....I WILL do that for all the emission stuff. I believe this car is still all original.
 

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