Engine oil leaks, help!

[AUSSIEVETTEMAN]

Hey guys,

I have two oil leaks on my 81 Coupe. They are the rear seal and I think from near the timing chain cover, the front seal maybe?.
They are not bad leaks, about half an inch each in diameter.

Can anyone tell me if they can be repaired without pulling the engine out?
Can you get the sump out?

I want to stop the leaks for now, but didn't want to pull the engine out just yet.

Cheers

Tony

 

[BeaterShark]

Those can most likely be taken car of without pulling the engine. Also, oil leaks are really deceptive. For example, if you have a leak at the front, when you drive the wind will spread oil back. The rear of the intake manifold can leak driping down the back of the block looking like a rear seal leak.

My advise is to buy some oil dye and a black light. Clean up the engine as best as you can, then put the dye in the oil and run the engine without driving it for a while. This could mean up to 20 minutes or so until the oil get hot enough to actually leak. Then, get out the black light and check all around the engine to see where it "glows". This will tell you exactly where the leak is.

Now, if it is the rear seal or front pan to timing cover seal, you can attempt to fix it by dropping the pan. These instructions are how it is on my '69 with manual steering:
1) Drain the oil and remove the oil filter
2) Unbolt the idler arm from the passenger side frame. This will allow you to drop the drag link enough to get the pan out.
3) Unbolt all of the oil pan bolts and remove the pan.
4) Remove the oil pump.
5) Remove the rear main cap.
6) Remove the rear main seal. The lower seal should be in the cap and you will need to lightly tap the upper seal with a brass punch until there is enough seal to grab and pull out.
7) Installation is in the reverse order. It is also advisable to offset the seal a little so the two pieces of the seal do not line up with the main cap.

Fel Pro also makes a 1 piece oil pan gasket kit which I highly recommend. It is a 1 piece rubber gasket which is a little thicker than stock. It also comes with all new bolts and some plastic guides which will hold the pan somewhat against the gasket to start the bolts. This makes it *much* easier to install the pan. I could get you a part # if you are instered.

 

[AUSSIEVETTEMAN]

Thanks Chris!

The steering is now on the right hand side, which will put the idler arm on the opposite side to normal, but this should not be a problem (a Toyota Cressida steering box replaces the stock item, but on the other side).
The rear oil leak is coming out the inspection plate for the transmission and leaks on the torque converter a little. There is no oil on the back of the motor, as it is as clean as a whistle. I don't think it is leaking from the valve covers.
The front leak seams to come from behind the crank pulley, so I am guessing, but I think it is the seal.

She doesn't leak straight away, usually overnight parking in the garage and in the morning when you back her out to play, the leak/s are there. I have put a heavier grade oil in there and it slows up the leaks, but I have to wait until she gets warm before giving her any stick as the oil is thick and the pressure is high. I use Penrite HPR50, which is a 40/70 oil.
The engine has done around 116000 miles by the paperwork I have for her. Seems she left the States in 1996 and was converted to right hand drive around then. If this is anything to go by, then I am hoping to get a little more before I pull the engine. I just have to do a compression test first.

I don't have to take any pulleys off to do the front seal, do I?

Cheers

Tony

 

[BeaterShark]

It always amazes me when I read about the oil viscosities used around the world. Here, they (CAFE) are pushing 5w20 oils in the new cars and in Aussie land, 10w40 is almost nowhere to be found as it's too thin.

One thing to check for the leak on the fron is the timing cover seal over the balancer. I've seen a small groove in the balancer from the constant rubbing of the seal. You can buy a sleeve to press over the balancer which will give it an additional .030" thickness to make up for the groove.

Good luck.

 

[AUSSIEVETTEMAN]

Thanks again.

Chris,

Yes, you are right. There are not too many oils here in Oz that have that viscosity. Mobil 1 has 10W/40, I think. I am planning on running it when the engine is rebuilt.

I think the conditions may have something to do with it weather wise. We do not have too many snowy winters here and infact where I live here on the Gold Coast (Surfers Paradise), there is no snowy winters at all. Full time sun, surf and beaches. The winters only get down to around 18 degrees C (or 65 degrees F). This means no cold starts.

Thanks again

Tony