Engine rebuild

[Beachbumm61]

I have a 61 powerglide(283 or 327... not orig mtr) and would like more power or just to make it a little quicker.. any ideas on just how much horsepower would be fine.....am thinking about somewhere around 350....thanks to all who respond

 

[Mac]

I have a 61 powerglide(283 or 327... not orig mtr) and would like more power or just to make it a little quicker.. any ideas on just how much horsepower would be fine.....am thinking about somewhere around 350....thanks to all who respond

Welcome aboard, Beachbumm61!

I've moved your thread into the technical area and I'm sure some of our local experts will take care of your concerns shortly. I'm a hot-rodder at heart, so I would dump the powerglide and go standard. Hopefully you're wanting to drive this car so I'd investigate a nice crate engine (decent power, reliable and guaranteed!) and locate a decent four, five or six speed, whichever is most affordable and voila! You're motoring!!

 

[IH2LOSE]

depending on what condtion the motor is in would determine what I would recomend.

Normally when I want to wake a motor up with out getting in too deap is a head and cam carb and intake upgrade.but if you have a winded block your wasting your time

as for seat of your pants feel a set of 4:11 set you in your seat regaurdless of hourse power.

PS WELCOME ABORD

 

[jerrybramlett]

Make a realistic plan

I would design the engine for the intended rpm range for most of your driving. For example, if you're going to stick with the powerglide automatic and drive on city streets, you'll seldom see more than 2,500 rpm even with a 3.70 rear. The easiest way to get more torque in that low rpm range is to install a small block 400 with a very mild cam.

If you will switch to a manual transmission, install a 4.11 rear, and drive like a 16 year-old, then you can soup up a little 283 and feel some power in the 5-7,000 rpm range. Of course the engine will be a very weak suck below 3,000 rpm and you'll have to replace some drivetrain components as they break under high rpm load.

You can forget the magazine stories about getting 350hp out of a 283 unless you want a car suitable only for drag racing. Look carefully at the dyno results in these stories. You'll see that they seldom mention torque / horsepower figures below 3,500 rpm, let alone idle rpm or off-idle engine response. The only realistic way to have it all (useable high horsepower, reasonable economy, low maintenance) is to install a huge engine, mild cam, and a transmission / rear combo that gives a high ratio number in low gear and a low number in high gear.

 

[rowingone]

If you could find a numbers correct block then build it with a good cam etc, that would be the smartest thing to do - if you're going to pull the engine anyway you should add to the value of the car and then, as stated in previous posts, get your punch from going with the right rear end.

 

[studiog]

Are you going to dump the Powerglide? It might not be up to the task if you really beef up the motor. Just a thought.

 

[bradfordsvettes]

the power glide would really be hurting with that power range there may be some build up options for the tranny if you really want to change the seat of the pants feel do a rear gear change it is the best bang for the buck steve

 

[Toy4Hal]

Beachbumm61, I have a 62 'Vette for which I just had the motor rebuilt. I asked for somewhere between 300 and 350 HP. My feeling (not dyno'ed yet) is I got that. Mild cam, large port heads, etc.

It's plenty strong. With the "normal" small tires of our cars, I easily get rubber in 3 of 4 (manual) gears.

Although my car is not original, I chose to rebuild the 327 rather than get a "crate" 350. Just the old racer in me --- 327s (in the old days) performed better than the 350. Of course, that may not be an option if your motor is "worn".

Like others, I would "lose" the powerglide, no matter what choice you want. I'm a 4 speed guy, but those turbo 400 autos can make your life easier in traffic.

Hal.