Engine Upgrades

[BigRed]

I posted a few of my ongoing's in the tech section but its gotten NO attention so I figured I'd try it out over here.

Right now Im currently taking a older GM alternator with internal regulator and making it fit into a newer (my 85) application.

Not a big deal I customized the case without killing to much of the exposed chrome.

Now Ive YANKED the pollution crap, heres where I need a hand.

Ive got a pump gone,the pipe valves gone, the crossover tubing gone, and now Ive got a pile of vaccum lines a couple canisters under my left headlight, and two steel tubing line on my exhaust manifolds.

Now I could cut the tubes off the manifolds and crease/braze the holes shut (or) simply unthread the plastic tubing and cap them off. (Any ideas?)

Can I plug off the vaccum lines (Or eliminate a few) without ringing codes?

Can I kill the canisters without ringing off codes?

Ive already left the EGR alone with its vaccum regulator friend under the manifold so I THINK my computer issuses are ok but Im not 100%

I am using the Mid America pulley kit in place of the air pump (on its way UPS)

......

Ive also replaced my valve covers with GM Chevrolet cast aluminum valve covers and Im finding three problems.

My alternator is hitting it
The wiper motor is hitting hit
the hole for the intake breather is to big

Anybody been here before? Im finding Im having to fabricate a little to much here considering the fact there are all GM PARTS!! Grr...

Oh well all in the art of customizing I guess.

Oh if anyones looking for a GREAT paint to simulate aluminum theres a product from Seymour Paints called Alumni Blast. I used it a my entire intake and does it look RICH! Very nice and it doesn't yellow smudge or chip.

Now I just have to RIP out the wiring some FOOL did on this car, installing the MSD system.

Spade connectors going to factory harness WTG putz.

One good tug doing to valve covers the harness came loose and Im looking at 90 wires....

Good thing Ive wired a FEW of these before but still jeez.

Oh ya and I dropped in a new radiator

Can I make a suggestion for all C4 owners here

PLEASE clean between the A/C condensor and the rad!!! Mine was just CAKED in crap..Heads up anyways

Im starting to wonder if I'll ever see it run again LOL and the seat covers I ordered HAVE to be here soon

Keep it real!

ad :L :eyerole :confused

 

[Mad-Mic]

sorry Red can't help ya. i haven't gotten that far on my !air elimination stuff yet...lol so i'll be watching this post cause i want to clean my engine bay up also

 

[UB2 SLOW]

Sorry man, I cant help. I have an LT4

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Okay, I will try my best as I don't have much of that left.

Now Ive YANKED the pollution crap, heres where I need a hand.

Ive got a pump gone,the pipe valves gone, the crossover tubing gone, and now Ive got a pile of vaccum lines a couple canisters under my left headlight, and two steel tubing line on my exhaust manifolds.

Now I could cut the tubes off the manifolds and crease/braze the holes shut (or) simply unthread the plastic tubing and cap them off. (Any ideas?)

Yes, those are only for the A.I.R. Pump so you will be fine ( no codes from that)

Can I plug off the vaccum lines (Or eliminate a few) without ringing codes?

Can I kill the canisters without ringing off codes?

How many canisters? I have 2, one is a round ball which is for the cruise control, the other is the charcoal canister, this is the vent for the fuel tank, I would leave it there, it is not hurting anything being there and keeps the fumes from venting. if you removed it I think you will need a vented gas cap..not sure, I still have mine installed. (this may set a code if removed, not sure though)

Ive already left the EGR alone with its vaccum regulator friend under the manifold so I THINK my computer issuses are ok but Im not 100%

did you leave the vacuum lines connected to the EGR Solenoid? if so, you will be fine as the EGR will still operate as designed. Even if you remove the EGR you should not get any codes, I never got codes before I disabled it in the PROM

Hope that helps

 

[Hyde]

i would not disconnect the canisters, they are necessary. the vacuum lines from the air diverter valves can be removed with no prob. The exhaust manifold pipes should have check valves on them. You can take hose them correct diameter about 3 inches long and put it on the valve, then palce a bolt in the other end and use a band clamp to tighten. The valve covers may be tall covers. Get short ones, they should clear both wiper and alternator.

Good luck.

 

[livinez]

no leaks...,yet

We cut and welded my exhaust manifolds. With rod for stainless, leaving a small nipple of weld behind for strength. Not sano but better looking than the old plumbing! Being a cheap guy I just gutted the air pump (a pain) and will get the pulley kit at a later date. Also gutted the Cat and welded its air tube also.
No codes pertaining to that yet. Plugged the vacuum line at the T
Tomorrows project is to get the passenger side hood latch to release!!ad
Checked the seach mode and tried some of the tips but will get after it more seriously then. Funny, my reluctant headlight motor works all the time now that I cant get the hood open to twist the knob, hmmm
If successfull in that endeavor will probably do the descreen on the MAF also. After taking a plug reading to see how rich/lean they look.

 

[BigRed]

I actually thought I bought the smaller ones but I installed them already.

Im going to have to stick a piece of THIN rubber between the wiper cover and the valve cover but they actually fit like a glove. (trick to get in there without breaking anything)

The alternator Im not sure about yet I have to recieve this Mid America Air pump delete kit to see where the alternator hinges to. I do think I'll be ok I looked at some pictures.

I did leave the vaccum and electrical lines alone around the EGR.

I think I might cut the Air Tube off the manifold, I was looking at the spark plugs yesterday and WOW would they be easier with those POS's gone. So they will be gone!

So who knows what the HP increase is? he hehehehe

 

[BigRed]

Got the air pump kit from Mid america...made by breathless performance

Very nice unit very good quality.

The new alternator hinged into perfect postion and I now have a complete pulley system.

Valve covers went in without further issue and I just ran an external K&N breather.

Dummy me while I was racing to get my car done for easter long weekend I accidently stuck the AIR pipe from the used to be Cat on my intake..(Coolant port)

DOH!

So as Im filling im wondering whats this extra port on my TB for then the coolant starts gushing out.

DOH

So I rip out the AIR pipe (Actually made from heater hose on mine) buy a new intake to TB hose and vola!

I yank out a WHACK of vaccum lines and clean up the remaining wires.

Now Im near done. Im running but the idles high and I do hear a small vaccum leak coming from the PCV hard line but I'll battle with it an other day. Also I do have a SES light coming on but only when I bring the car to a stop. As soon as I take off it disappears, so Im thinking I got the O2 sensor coated in Glycol and its just burning off or that vaccum leak is ringing my code but I do know its a minor thing to fix because the computer stays closed and operates fine.

Wish I could have scanned the car but SOMEONE at the shop THREW the battery booster pack on our MT2500!!!

Now I need to go and buy a new screen for it....great!

But at least Im rolling!

I'll get some pictures soon I want to clean it up in there so it'll look good.

 

[spyysee]

pictures, we need pictures!

 

[BigRed]

Heres some pictures its still a contruction zone in there Ive yet to get to removing and painting black pieces and I gave to do a finish coat on the plenum but you can get an idea at least. I tryed to pic the battery but it came out terrible so I'll get it later when the engine bay looks better. I included some old pictures to base the change off.

 

[BigRed]

I was looking at minirams today so I got to thinking if I still end up fighting with this vaccum leak and Im going to have to remove the plenum again I might as well look around for a suitable replacement.

I know a bit about the TPiS but I saw that GM has one, Accel has one, and LP makes one (not sure if I like it)

Who's the best bang for the buck?


Also was looking at these

www.coolflex.com