Help! Factroy plug wire removal

[tcxd40]

The 81 final stopped starting. Time to change all the factory ignition parts,
all original to the car never changed 71K.

Now the question, is there some secret to removing the plug wires 1and 3 from underneath the motor mount? :confused

Or does the mount need to be removed from the block to gain space between the block and the motor mount?


tcxd40

 

[Peer81]

That is a nice feature the C3's have! (don't know all of them have it?)
The 82 of a friend of mine when to the garage and got new plug wires but the "new" ones where still behind the engine mounts... Not the smartest thing that shop did!

To my knowledge the only way to put new ones back in the original way is to lift the engine a little. Of course you can cut the old ones to remove them.

Groeten Peter

 

[tcxd40]

Peer81,

I thought about cutting them , however still need to get the news ones installed.

I wanted to keep it as orignal as possible. So I guess that removing the bolts for the mounts is the way to go.

tcxd40

 

[spikebot 81]

I cut the old wires out and rerouted the new wires. I see no practical reason why they should go through the motor mount brackets. Someone enlighten me?

 

[tcxd40]

I have the same thought, why would you run them under the mounts and why would you want them so long?

 

[6880 Mike]

The engine mounts act as wire looms. If memory serves, 2 and 4 on the other side also route through the mount.

Most folks cut the old and reroute the new. You can raise the block enough to loosen the mounts and do it that way. You'll need a floor jack.

PITA.

 

[tcxd40]

Well, after thinking about it I'll reroute the wires. Wanted to retain some originality just not worth the effort.
So I'll cut the old and run the new across the top then down to the plugs.

 

[81Batmobile]

I rerouted my wires and unless you really get down into the engine bay or under the car you would never know they took a different route. And besides, there are only a few people that know where the plug wires are routed anyway. Unless you are really into showing and competing, take the easy way out.

Good luck.
Ron

 

[tcxd40]

My '81 is not original, entire suspension is VBP. Body work has been done also. From the outside it appears original that's why I want to keep some of the factory look elsewhere on the car. Unless you know what your looking for you would not notice.

I'll be working on it tonight, most likely cutting and rerouting, which also means new retainers and supports.

tcxd40

 

[Peer81]

I rerouted mine as original, just for the fun of it and that way the original wire routing system is still in use!

Groeten Peter

 

[GerryLP]

I re-routed as original as well. But I cheated. I upgraded to 300-ohm/foot ignition wires (but hell, anything below 1,000 ohms is just fine), and I bought the ones that need to be crimped with the terminals, so getting to those wires was a just a matter of snaking through the wire, cut, slip the boot, crimp the terminal, and snap into place the plug. Worked like a charm. I believe that you can get the original GM wires un-assembled as well, but I wanted additional insurance of reliability, for I did not want to spend my time changing wires.

GerryLP:cool

 

[tcxd40]

Have everthing back together, still will not start, wants to though. Wires rerouted almost like the originals, just not in the shields or under the mounts.

 

[GerryLP]

Have everthing back together, still will not start, wants to though. Wires rerouted almost like the originals, just not in the shields or under the mounts.

You seem to imply that the engine cranks but does not start, so I will presume so when suggesting areas to look into.

First, let's make sure that all the wires connecting the distributor cap from the engine compartment harness are making contact. The battery contact is pink or in my car's case it looks tan (if it was pink, then it faded to tan-like color). But that connector goes to the distributor cap where is says "BAT". By the way , this wire is considered to be "switched" or you won't read voltage until the ignition switch is turned to "on". If the pink/tan wire backs out, it will allow your engine's starter motor to crank the engine, but it won't be delivering voltage to the coil.

We would need more information from you, but sometimes the choke can get stuck in rich mode, and not allow the engine to start, but you should be getting plenty of fuel vapors to cause a heavily-ladden fuel smell in the air.


if that is not what is causing the engine no-start condition, then Next, I would recommend looking into any codes that may have been set by the computer to see if they provide some clues as far as causes.

 

[tcxd40]

GerryLP,

The problem has been solved, I think. Checked all wiring at the distributor all is correct. What I forgot about is the ignition module. No sure what happened, it did crap out.
Put a new one in this afternoon and it sarted instantly, purrs like a kitten. At 71K it needed all new wires, cap and rotor anyhow....

 

[GerryLP]

GerryLP,

The problem has been solved, I think. Checked all wiring at the distributor all is correct. What I forgot about is the ignition module. No sure what happened, it did crap out.
Put a new one in this afternoon and it sarted instantly, purrs like a kitten. At 71K it needed all new wires, cap and rotor anyhow....

So what made you suspect it? I mean did you follow a troubleshooting guide or just suspected it and replaced it on whim?

The one in my Vette still is the original. Well, at least you got it running

 

[tcxd40]

GerryLP,

I have had multiple Chevys with HEIs and each time the ignition module has been the culprit when it stopped running. I was hoping that it wasn't the module. As I stated before it really did need everthing replaced. Not only does it have 71K in mileage it also sat in a barn for 17 years...

 

[GerryLP]

We're glad that she's running again. Congrats!

 

[Peer81]

Good to hear the problem is fixed. Always takes a long time to find out compared to the easy fix. Enjoy!

Groeten Peter