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First Brake Job

Grizzly

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2002
Messages
430
Location
Centerville, PA, USA
Corvette
1967 Marlboro Maroon Coupe, 1992 White Convertible
I'm about to start my first brake job on the 92. I ordered up pads and new pins from VBP. Plan on flushing brakes and then painting the calipers because I have new Z06 wheels and D3's to put on. I want to sand the rotors as recomended in the "101 Projects for your C4 book." When they are clean, I'll check thickness and runout.

I guess what I am asking is what did I forget? Any words of wisdom? The brakes work fine now, but the pads are dirty, that's what started the rebuild.

Finally how much grooving is too much? I can feel slight grooves if I drag my fingernail over the rotor, but they are more like waves than grooves.

Thanks...................
 
You may want to touch up the rotors if you have enough meat. The waves or grooves will degrade performance. Also consider stainless steel braided brake lines while she's up. They are great.

I could spend more of your money and go J55 (13") front calipers and rotors. You could find some used stuff and really haul it down. I believe they bolt right on.
 
The GM Service manual does not recommend turning (refinishing) the rotors as the original thinckness or the rotors doesn't have a lot of "meat" on them. It's a good idea a to have them checked for runout or any cracking. The manual allows light scoring of the surface if it does not exceed .015" or .38mm. Rotor runout cannot exceed .006" or .15mm

From the service manual, the thickness of the factory standard rotors are .795" new (with a thickness variation of .0005" allowed) and the minimum thickness is .744". It also says to toss a rotor when it hits .724".

If you do want to smooth the rotors out, use a non-directional finish on them. Turn the rotor at about 150RPM and use 150-grit sandpaper on a block by holding it aainst the surface for 1 minute. If you go with new rotors, don't do anything to them except degrease with brake parts cleaner.

Use a good quality DOT3 or DOT4 fluid. I use Castrol LMA in my 92 and Ford ( :eek ) Motorcraft HD fluid in my 87 autocross car. It takes about a quart to do a complete flush and re-fill.

If you do decide to upgrade to the 13" J55 HD brakes, you will also need the caliper attaching brakets. They are fairly pricey so expect to pay a few hundred for the J55 upgrade but it's well worth the money.
 
If you are going to all of that trouble i would replace the rotors also. Get some nice drilled or slotted. They will look great through the Z06 wheels. Good luck, Guy
 
tlong said:
You may want to touch up the rotors if you have enough meat. The waves or grooves will degrade performance. Also consider stainless steel braided brake lines while she's up. They are great.

I could spend more of your money and go J55 (13") front calipers and rotors. You could find some used stuff and really haul it down. I believe they bolt right on.

I'm with Tim on this one! the next brake job will be with the ZR1 front brakes kit!
 

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