Got a coupe questions...that and I cannot make up my mind...:eyerole
What rear end lube do you guys use/recommend? I would also like to know how often you change yours. Dino Vs. Sync. I tend to think a Sync. might be a better option. Do I need friction modifier with Sync. fluid? I have heard good things about Royal Purple?
Also, what kind of Power Steering Fluid do you use and how often do you swap it out? Valvoline Syn. Fluid?
I change the oil and brake/clutch fluid annually...Mobil 1 and Ford Motorcraft DOT3 respectively.
Coolant was changed last year, I drain and fill every two or three max.
One other thing on the subject of coolant.
How long is the shelf life of mixed green coolant in plastic jug? I would think other than the minerals, that maybe in the water when mixed, nothing else would hurt the rust inhibitors and so on? 2, 3 years, IDK?
Keep in mind I do visit the drag strip a few times a year and drive in a spirited manner on the street so I want to maintain my car well.
While I've got someone that actually does all the fluids, I have a question for you before I share what little I know on the subject..
What or how do you drain or withdraw the rear end fluid? With no drain plug, the efficiency of sucking it out seems poor at best. I've never been able to pull out much at all.
As far as having to add the GM Posi-additive (limited slip additive) yes, everyone I ask says that its necessary with any type of gear grease, syn or regular.
PS...I just completely rebuilt my system, ALL new pieces (rack, pump, hoses) and having had outstanding success in the past with Lucas products for PS, I went with the normal PS fluid (valvoline) and a few oz of Lucas. Its been 11 months and I have not seen a drop outside and the fluid in the system looks brand new.
Brakes...I use the DOT III 450* fluid. Silicone fluids are not reccomended for the older ABS. . Self bleeding caliper screws came from Heaven. Add clear tubing and sit there pumping one wheel at a time...absolutely mess-less. I will suck the resevoir out and refill every few months just to be safe and to inspect the bottom of the resevoir for trash.
Trans....after reading some fleet reports, I switched midstream to syn. I flushed the old stuff, by discharging from a cooler line as new syn was added thru the top.. That method waste a bunch of fluid but I spent my life in hydraulics and refuse to run a pump dry and allow it to cavitate.
Coolant...again, I switched due to hard lessons. The green when its neglected will turn acidic and eat aluminum heads. Ask me how I know this....Better yet, ask the old GF that was standing on the side of I-10 with me about halfway between Palm Springs and L.A. in July.
The orange DexCool got a bad rap when it debuted. Many folks halfass drained the green out, and added the orange. It turned to mud and caused some problems. I never saw it but heard the stories. The longer the orange was around, the less those stories were told. Seems like everyone got over it and started doing conversions right with complete flushing and fresh orange coolant.
Since disposal is such a pain, I can see how and why poor flushing caused problems when dexcool was added. I had to buy one new head for around $1100 bare, after allowing green to get old and do its damage. Never again. My motor has been on Dex for 10+yrs. I remember that old cyl head with the holes in the deck where the acid ate thru and the thought of annual flushing and coolant changes makes me stay awake at night...Now with the 5/50K dex, I can change when its convenient and not fear any consequences. Besides, with my new all aluminum radiator, the orange looks nice in the shiney new filler neck.

BTW...that radiator is the best money I ever spent.
Disclaimer:
People have been using the green successfully for decades without any problems. Many C4's run green and have never had a problem.Probably never will. The potential does exist depending on the number of cycles and time, and after seeing the damage, I just feel that if there is any way to avoid the risk, I'll do it.
Eng oil...Mobile-1 15-50wt summer, 10-30wt winter