front suspension bushings-radiator?

[t4bz]

In addition to the rear end stuff...which I chickened out on a left to a professional...I'm going to need to replace the bushings in my front A-arms. I've pretty much decided to buy a poly set that comes with it all...ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, idler arm, etc...and I'm thinking I'll give it a go myself. I'll probably throw on springs while I'm at it (the famous while I'm at it).

After reading the boards, though, I have a question. Is it necessary to remove the radiator? Some thought so, in order to access the upper ball joints, I guess.

Hope I don't get in over my head with this. Any other fairly inexperienced folks attempt this sort of thing?

Thanks...Travis

 

[brusso]

Not sure about needing to remove the rad, but while replacing the rad, on my 75, it sure looked pretty tight in there. I would guess yes. If I remember correctly, it looked like you couldn't even get a tool on the front A-arm bolt without at least removing the rad shroud. This of coarse starts the "to get to this you have to remove that and so on." Good luck.

 

[tomtom72]

ball joints & a-frames

Hi Travis, If I remember correctly radiator R&R is not necessary. Place front on jack stands, Use floor jack to support lower A frame, undo sway bar end link, R shock, remove cotter pin from lower ball joint castle nut, Undo the nut about 1/2 way so you can use ball joint fork, lower jack enough to insert ball joint fork to break the lower ball joint, once LBJ is broken, lower jack slowly to release spring preassure, ball joint may not separate immeadiately so as you lower jack slowly use fork to pry it loose, once ball joint stud comes out you continue to lower jack slowly so spring tension disapates and remove spring. Or you can rent a spring compressor, but if you are careful it is not essential.If you want to do lowers and uppers at same time it is best to R&R rotor and caliper first. That's the driver side, passenger side may have to move A/C comp to get to upper A frame easily. tt72

 

[GTR1999]

You shouldn't have to remove the radiator but it might also be a good time to check the lower support condition. They rust form the inside out usually in the lower drivers side corner. If you catch in time you can repair it before it gets real bad.

Think about the poly,they are harder and soem start to make noise. The rubber bushings will ride better without the noise. They'll last for years.

Be careful with removing the springs-a lot of energy could be released very quickly.

 

[Jack]

t4bz:
Brusso's right ... on most the shroud/rad is VERY close to front upper bushing retainer bolt. If you're gonna go the whole poly rebuild route ... and remove the A arms from car ... You really don't have to take that bolt out until after the arms are out of the car. Might be a good time anyway to R&R rad for good inside-out cleaning. With the poly, you'll wanna keep a close check ALL 8 bushing retainer bolts. If you clean the shafts' female threads and the bolts' threads REALLY well ... then assemble with absolutely NO grease/ schmutz in or on those threads ... but do use a bit of Loctite on them ... a lockwasher probably will NOT suffice ... they'll probably stay put. Quite Unlike the factory OE bonded rubber bushings ... the poly bushings have no bonds and do float in the shells ... so poly HAS to have the bolts secured in order to prevent the poly bushings from being spit out of the shells. I did this with mine & no problems. Use lotsa good jackstands & respect the springs. BTW, I used a holesaw, carb cleaner & penknife to remove the old rubber from outer shells ... and reused the old outer shells, negating any need to press shells in-out ... eliminated possible bending/tweaking arms from pressing.
JACK:gap
*edit* I got my "deluxe" full front end kit with poly from Van Steel ... great quality & service!

 

[The73vetteman]

Replaced my upper A arm bushings without touching the rad, although it was very tight against the shroud.

Hardest part of the job was removing the old shells - used a hacksaw to cut through them then peeled them out - but afterwards I wondered if I really needed to do this. Seems like Jack thought of this before doing the job!

'73

 

[Jack]

Not My Idea

Replaced my upper A arm bushings without touching the rad, although it was very tight against the shroud.

Hardest part of the job was removing the old shells - used a hacksaw to cut through them then peeled them out - but afterwards I wondered if I really needed to do this. Seems like Jack thought of this before doing the job!

'73

I did think about it before starting ... even before ordering parts I waded through lotsa threads at several sites. While I may've refined it some ... I did NOT originate the method. Sadly, I don't recall who actually thought it up ... but he/she deserves my thanks! My Van Steel kit came with Energy Suspension poly ... I don't know if Prothane, PolyGraphite etc shells are same dimensionally (probably are) ... but my ES outer shells were dimensionally same as OE. The new ES shells had a pretty gold-colored finish ... could've been fashioned into wedding band for Shrek or unique Christmas tree ornaments.
JACK:gap

 

[t4bz]

Thanks so much again!

Have I said lately how awesome this board is?

Sounds like a good winter project to me. Thanks for running me through the process, tom.

Coupeman, I'm sure I'll take you up on your advice. I'm all about checking things while I'm in a good position to do so.

Jack: Thanks...hadn't heard some of that stuff about the poly before. I know there is a ton of debate about poly vs rubber...I could still be swayed either way, but right now I'm on the poly side a bit. I had read about burning the old rubber out...but I might try your method...try to push back my pyro tendencies. I'll take a look at the Van Steel site before I order.

Thanks again everyone! I might be back this winter about this topic...