Fuel filter bronze or paper?

[WhiteKnight]

I just picked up a replacment fuel filter for my vette, 71 base 350 automatic. It has a Rochester on it # 7043201 which is from a 73 454 MT. I was not sure if needed the porous bronze type or the pleated paper type, so I got both.

It had the paper type in it so that is the one I used. My question is should I return the bronze one or just keep it for the next time I replace the fuel filter?

Thanks

 

[WhiteKnight]

Did more info gathering tonight..

Got the parts from O'Reilly

Both are made by Wix Filters

Per Wix's web site:
33044 is the paper filter which is for non-high performance
33050 is the bronze filter which is for high performance

I'm guessing that the HPerf is the Holley carb on the LT-1 and LS-6 motors.

Holley's site shows what looks like bronze filters used in thier carbs.

I also found out that the bronze is technically a better filter. What I was not able to find a difinitive answer on is: Can use the bronze filter in my Rochester carb? It looks like it should work, has anyone used this type of filter in place of the paper one?

 

[The73vetteman]

Holley do use a bronze filter at the inlet ports of the carb but I don't know how it's filtration efficiency compares with that of paper. My guess is that paper is a better filter in that it filters down to a smaller particle size. The downside of that will be higher flow resistance. I suspect that the bronze filter is the 'high performance' filter simply because it doesn't impede fuel flow the way the paper one does.

The other thing to consider is that with any filter it's ability to stop particles hinges on it actually becoming partially clogged. This means that the efficiency may start relatively low - it only filters out the bigger particles - but as it clogs it begins to catch the smaller particles. As paper will probably have a smaller mesh size than bronze it will clog quicker.

Am I making any sense?

If you're still with me here's one last point. The bronze filter is cleanable and reusable, so may work out cheaper than paper in the long run.

Hope this 'brain dump' is of some help!

John

 

[WhiteKnight]

Thanks John. That does make sense.

The bronze rating was a Nomimal micron particle 40 and paper was Nominal micron 17. Since the smaller number the smaller the particle it will filter paper looks to let less of the "big" stuff through.

From other information I found that A nominal pore size rating describes the ability of the filter media to retain the majority of particulate at (60 - 98%) the rated pore size. Process conditions such as operating pressure, concentration of contaminant, etc., have a significant effect on the retention efficiency of the filters.

As for the price difference the bronze, if usable for the application, and with cleaning re-usable should be far cheaper even if I can get only one re-use from it.

Bronze cost $1.99
Paper cost $1.69

Go Figure!!

Thanks!!

 

[DrewZap]

Fuel Filters

i just had to rebuild my carb for the third time in a week as the bronze let in crap the size of a pin head!!!!! using paper in the inlet now..we'll see.
Drew

 

[srs244]

just a suggestion if using the paper filter, make sure you carry a spare one and the wrench to change it on the road. way back when (boy do i sound old or what??, lol), we used to remove them and replace it with a see through filter in the line. the reason was that the crap that got dredged up from the fuel tank would often cause them to clog and usually at the most inopportune time. i would think that today unless you have rebuilt your fuel tank, the same if not more amount of crap is just waiting there to be pumped up if you let your fuel level drop too low, or wind up stirring it up somehow.

just my 2 cents worth

 

[ruby76]

Don't know for sure, but dad told me never to use the filter that goes in the fuel inlet. So I've always used in-line aftermarket filters. Like I said, don't know why though.

 

[srs244]

Don't know for sure, but dad told me never to use the filter that goes in the fuel inlet. So I've always used in-line aftermarket filters. Like I said, don't know why though.

i'll bet you i'm at least as old as he is, LMAO!! as i said, they were more trouble than they were worth and the solution to prevent problems was very simple.

 

[WhiteKnight]

Drew nailed it as to why not to use the inlet filter. One of the biggest problems is it uses a spring to allow fuel to bypass a filter clog. If there is enough junk in the fuel to clog a filter then you are going to get junk in the carb.

Like srs244 said with a inline filter you save yourself from doing carb rebuilds frequently.

"My" problem is I was trying to keep the stock apearance an use the inline filter.

 

[srs244]

if you want to maintain the original appearance and yours is not an NCRS car, you can always put the inline filter between the tank and the fuel pump. that way it is out of sight, but not out of efficiency. admittedly it will be less convenient to change it out, but it will still provide the filtration you need.

 

[DrewZap]

I removed my stock hard line and added braided from the pump to the carb, put a big steel filter inline and put the paper in the carb. As my vette is not an original engine car, ( i do have a correct engine in the works tho), i managed to keep the OE steel line intact. I plan on changing out the filter in a couple of weeks and again and again until it is finally clean, then reinstall the hard line.
Seems to be working well as i was finally able to drive this beast for the first time more than 2 miles before she stalled!!!!!
Drew

 

[Mr. Chuck]

I had a similar dirty fuel problem in a 73 Opel GT, found the only real way to start fresh is to remove gas tank and clear it out good with carb boil-out solution. Mine was so bad it took several rine and dump after a several day soak to cut the heavy build-up inside the tank. Doing just the tank stand-alone eliminates getting any of the lossened dirt, etc in the fuel lines. A good fuel line flush may also be in order to do a complete job. The Opel was a real job, since the tank only come out from inside the car.

 

[ruby76]

if you want to maintain the original appearance and yours is not an NCRS car, you can always put the inline filter between the tank and the fuel pump. that way it is out of sight, but not out of efficiency. admittedly it will be less convenient to change it out, but it will still provide the filtration you need.

My inline filter is down inside the frame by the fuel pump. out of site, but a pita to get to in this particular location.


FYI
Dad is 65 now.

 

[L46]

My vette came with an inline the previous owner put on it. It looked "rigged" for lack of a better word. I removed it and put on a new pre-bent OEM type line. Looks much better.

As far as filtering, this one has the bronze filter. So far, no problems. The car does have a new gas tank, though, so I may not experience the problems others are having with dirt. The way I look at it is this: as long as the tank is clean, there shouldn't be a problem; after all, GM made millions of these carbs and it wasn't a catastophic problem, or there would have been a recall.

The in-lines give peace of mind, but if the tank's clean, it's overkill, IMO.