Question: Full Tank/Fuel Filter Change??

[Donne Trav]

Has anyone experienced changing the "fuel filter" with an almost
full tank of gasoline? Is there any way of capping off the line on the
tank side? Thanks

 

[MichaelTT]

Really is not an issue...full or half full etc. The fuel feed line is pressurized by the fuel pumps/sender unit so with engine off line is depressurized.

Here the procdure:
-any time working with the fuel system always disconnect the battery... unfortunately you will loose any stored stereo stations
-Loosen fuel filler cap to depressurize the fuel tank (a put a note to remind yourself to tighten back when you finish everything :eyerole )
-Go to fuel rail (right side) uncap shrader valve, place a paper towl under and in front of it and then simply push in valve stem and depressurize the fuel rail...you will get about a oz of fuel squirted out. Replace shrader valve cap immediately.
-Get a plastic container as one you would use to drain engine oil...put some paper towls in it (keeps the fuel splashing to minimum)
-with a 10mm socket remove metal shield protecting the fuel lines/fuel filter..with same socket remove bolt holding fuel filter to frame
-with a 17 mm and 21 mm (comparable non metric work too) loosen fuel line from fuel tank at filter and just let drain for couple minutes (it doesn't gush out more a a dribble)
-pull slightly the fuel filter to totally disengage from tank fuel line
-now using same 17 mm & 21 mm wrenches remove fuel filter from fuel feed line going to fuel rail..
-bascially just reverse to procedure to install new fuel filter...(1) inspect the fuel line connector O rings to make sure they are in good condition, (2) make sure you reinstall the fuel filter retaining band around new fuel filter first (but can be bolted back onto the frame rail last), (3)make sure to install new filter with the flow ---> going in the correct direction and (4) I do this just as a precaution.. use Locktite blue on the fuel lines to filter connector threads (they only need to be tighten to 22 lbs so don't go garage ape on tightening them.
-reinstall shield

Tighten fuel filler cap and IF you have a shrader valve bleeder use when you repressurize the fuel system...clears out air from fuel rails quicker

Yes you will smell like gasoline when you finish this procedure...have a couple beers and you will never notice

Michael

 

[Itshakes]

My filter was 16mm and 20mm wrenches, and I used flare nut, crow foot wrenches.

 

[MichaelTT]

I think the 16 & 20 mm will be a tighter fit...could not quite make it work (someone prior to me change out the filter and bung up the edges of the nuts a bit so might be the reason) so went to the 17 & 21 mm which were a bit loose but worked. Unless there is a reason I would go with the 16 & 20 mm. I used regular open ended wrenches and worked fine although crows foot more specific to this type of work...many simply do not have crows foot wrenches but have open ended types
M

 

[ZumZum]

How I get rid of the pressure is to remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Then start the car and let it run until the motor dies. You might crank it a couple more times to make sure the fuel is gone. There will be a little fuel in the line, but it won't be under any pressure.

 

[Itshakes]

I think the 16 & 20 mm will be a tighter fit...could not quite make it work (someone prior to me change out the filter and bung up the edges of the nuts a bit so might be the reason) so went to the 17 & 21 mm which were a bit loose but worked. Unless there is a reason I would go with the 16 & 20 mm. I used regular open ended wrenches and worked fine although crows foot more specific to this type of work...many simply do not have crows foot wrenches but have open ended types
M

That is why I suggested the 16-20mm crow foot flare nut wrenches--so he doesn't round off the fittings. It's always better to use the right wrenches the first time, that avoids the problems you had with the
"bunged up edges." Even plain flare nut wrenches would be another choice, but having done this on several cars, the crow foot flare nut wrenches make it safer and easier. With the crow foot flare nut wrenches and a long [12"] extension, it is a piece of cake, because you can swing the wrench all the way around. You cannot swing the regular length open end wrenches in that tight space.

 

[dogfish246]

When?

How many miles/ how do you know when you need a new fuel filter?

I have a 1996 LT1 with 68k.

Thanks:cool

 

[MichaelTT]

If the filter has never been changed you are most definitely past due...but with that said much depends on quality of fuel (from service station to service station that can be quite a range of excellent to crappy...latter meaning letting main tanks get low thus the gasoline pumped from them is contaminated...sediments and water), do you keep you tank top off? Lots of short distance driving only? Anyway, suggest you have changed and when the filter is removed pour the contents out (tip to the end that the fuel line from the fuel tank was attached) and be ready to be shocked
M

 

[Donne Trav]

How many miles/ how do you know when you need a new fuel filter?

I have a 1996 LT1 with 68k.

Thanks:cool

I have about 70,000 miles. I don't really know if in fact it is the fuel filter. I personally changed the fuel filter, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator this past summer. this is my main reason for thinking the gas may be contaminated. I'm trying to start with the easiest fix first. Thanks for you reply.

 

[CPTslackas]

I just changed my fuel filter today and man, did it make a huge difference in my idle. Very easy installation, but they're right, you will smell like gas lol.

 

[So Bay Vetter]

My filter was 16mm and 20mm wrenches, and I used flare nut, crow foot wrenches.

I have looked for offset (crowfoot) flare nut wrenches for years specifically to change the filter. Where did you find them?

 

[Itshakes]

Crow Foot Flare Nut Wrenches

I have looked for offset (crowfoot) flare nut wrenches for years specifically to change the filter. Where did you find them?

I bought mine from Snap-On.
3/8 Drive 20 MM--FRHM 20
3/8 Drive 16 MM--FRHM 16

Go to the Snap-On website and put in those part #'s. They will send them right to your house. I don't remember what they cost, but they are top notch, Very high quality pieces! Worth every penny when doing this job!

You can also stop a Snap-On dealer, and buy them from them. I tried many different dealers trucks, and found out they don't stock the 20 MM
wrench on the truck, so I ordered both of them on-line!

Just looked up the prices--3/8 Drive 6 point 20 MM--$23.95
3/8 Drive 6 point 16 MM--$18.00

 

[So Bay Vetter]

Outstanding! Thanks for the info., Itshakes!

 

[Donne Trav]

I have looked for offset (crowfoot) flare nut wrenches for years specifically to change the filter. Where did you find them?

I purchase most of the tools I use at Sears. They seem to have everything.
And if it breaks—you simply return it—no questions asked.

 

[Itshakes]

Crow Foot Flare Nut Wrenches

I purchase most of the tools I use at Sears. They seem to have everything.
And if it breaks—you simply return it—no questions asked.

Been there- Done that! Sears don't have the 20 MM size.

Snap-On has a lifetime warranty also.