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Gary's positract kits

norvalwilhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2004
Messages
396
Location
Waterloo, ontario
Corvette
75 blown bigblock
Earlier this year my son Steve and I did a rearend for a fellow forum member. He went basically factory stock parts. The posi clutches were $175 and the axles shims were $110 from the factory. We need the shims to tight up the spider gears and help fix the end play problem with brand new yokes. Taking free play out of the clutch pack takes play out of the side yokes. We removed .050 free play by just shimming up the posi unit properly. This leaves the spider gears with very little free play. We do NOT use the posi springs.
Anyway we did the rearend according to Gary's instructions and it was a good learning experience for my son and myself. I have done dozens of rearends over the years but Gary taught me new things.
Anyway I we were doing another rearend for a forum member using Gary's posi kit with included all the posi clutches and the axle shims.
First thing you notice is the extremely heavier clutch plates. The stock factory ones are like your fingers, Spread your fingers and look at all the gaps between them. This is the factory style. Lots of open area and reduced area. Gary's are completely solid, far more area and look alot beefier. Remember you are not using springs but properly shimming side gears for posi engagement and yoke end play. I will definitely go with these in future.
The next is the axle shims. While the factory kit for $110 consisted of a number of .010 shims Gary's consisted of 2 carefully marked .010,.015,.020,.025,.030,.035,.040, and .045. Each marked and 2 of each. A very nice kit.
We went for Timkon bearings and a complete set was $86 CDN. Seals I don't know the cost yet but my son has them.
We powder coated the housing black but the paint looses the bright gloss that powder coating normal puts on because oil must come out of the casting when heated in the oven. It is durable but not extremely bright.
Gary you put together a really nice kit along with instructions :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :cheers:
 
There are numerous formulations of powdercoating with a wide variety of finishes (from glossy to completely flat) and other properties (chemical resistant, uv resistant, etc) but none of them resist oil seeping from the metal during curing.

Chances are your powdercoater dipped the housing in hot degreaser to remove any and all residue of gear oil and used a powder which is oil resistant and less glossy.

-Mac
 
My son runs a powder coating line in industry. The parts go through a acid bath and then through the powder spraying process and then into the oven. NOthing special was done other then manually degreasing. Rearends come out ok but the gloss is not there that a normal clean piece would have. I know grease is comming out of the housing and maybe it should have been run through once without applying paint, the first time through the oven to drive the grease out with heat and the second time for coating.
Not a big deal but I am doing the rearend for a forum member and wanted it as nice as possible.
 
Thanks for the compliment Norval. If anyone wants a kit let me know I think I have 1 or 2 left and the price of the clutches is expected to up again. I see one vendor selling the clutches alone for $150.00

Norval do you have a picture of that powder coating? I usually use POR15 metal ready,then black, then cast blast and clear when I rebuild them. they come out nice but takes a lot of time.
75FinalAssy0007.jpg



Gary
 
norvalwilhelm said:
My son runs a powder coating line in industry.
You are lucky!! I take it your son is allowed occasion side jobs for his father? ;)

When I did my frame-off resto, I had the frame and several suspension parts powdercoated by an elevator manufacturer who has a powdercoat shop that takes side jobs. They have a huge heated degreasing tank and literally dipped my entire frame and other parts which I had already sandblasted. The hot degreaser flushed out the frame inside & out. They said no grease allowed whatsoever, even wore gloves so no skin oils on the metal.

-Mac
 

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