Got a problem-no power to anything

[RickT]

I was changing spark plugs and hit the starter post with my ratchet (spark). Finished the job and went to start it up but no power at all. Is there a fuse link somewhere that cuts all power off?

Rick

 

[bill81vette]

What year is your corvette????

 

[gmjunkie]

What year is your corvette????

Yeah,That would help,along with what options it has!

 

[RickT]

Oh,it's a 74 with the 350 auto. pwr. steering/brakes/air.
Nothing at all is working.

Rick

 

[gmjunkie]

Oh,it's a 74 with the 350 auto. pwr. steering/brakes/air.
Nothing at all is working.

Rick

There should be 2-3 fusible links on the starter with the Positive cable!!Or you just could have a bad connection there from shorting it!!

 

[LLC5]

I was changing spark plugs and hit the starter post with my ratchet (spark). Finished the job and went to start it up but no power at all. Is there a fuse link somewhere that cuts all power off?

Rick

Like Junkie said there are fusible links at the positive terminal on the starter. They are secured to the post with the positive battery cable. If you cannot see a burn in the fusible links on the post, try pulling on them and see if they come apart, as you cannot always see the burn marks. Be sure to disconnect the negative cable at the battery first before doing any work near the starter.

 

[RickT]

Thanks,I will be checking the fuse link shortly. I didn't know there was one on the starter terminal. I bet that's the problem.

Rick

 

[RickT]

Just checked the hot wires going to the starter and do not see any fusible links there. Maybe someone took them out? I do see where 2 wires have been put together and taped. All I see is what looks like some type (off white/yellowish plastic) of link where the largest small starter wire connects to. But it doesn't come apart that I can see and it doesn't appear to have a fuse in it.

Rick

update.checked all the wires going to the main hot starter terminal and all are hot. One (orange) wire to a terminal toward the drivers side on the starter is not hot. That terminal only has the 1 orange wire connected and that is the only wire that is not hot. Ground wire? Also I do not see any fuse links on the wires.

I am not even getting power to the courtesy light inside the car?

 

[Derrick]

I've got a 75 and had a similar problem last year. I had a burnt wire below the power brake booster on the drivers side (in the engine bay) where the wiring harness plugs into the firewall. Shine a flashlight down there and see if everything looks good. Mine was either a orange or red wire that was totally fried in two.

 

[LLC5]

Just checked the hot wires going to the starter and do not see any fusible links there. Maybe someone took them out? I do see where 2 wires have been put together and taped. All I see is what looks like some type (off white/yellowish plastic) of link where the largest small starter wire connects to. But it doesn't come apart that I can see and it doesn't appear to have a fuse in it.

Rick

update.checked all the wires going to the main hot starter terminal and all are hot. One (orange) wire to a terminal toward the drivers side on the starter is not hot. That terminal only has the 1 orange wire connected and that is the only wire that is not hot. Ground wire? Also I do not see any fuse links on the wires.

I am not even getting power to the courtesy light inside the car?

Are the two wires that are "put together and taped" attached to the big stud on the starter solenoid that the positive cable is attached to? Fusible links are a normal looking wire with a "rubbery" looking insulator, you will not see any fuse. The "fuse" in a fusible link is the internal wire inside the insulation of the wire. When a short happens the internal wire melts instead of your harness, sometimes you will see the burn on the outside of the insulator, other times you will have to pull on it and see if it comes apart. Check your firewall harness connector on the drivers side as mentioned above, you may have a fusible link in that location.

 

[RickT]

Are the two wires that are "put together and taped" attached to the big stud on the starter solenoid that the positive cable is attached to? Yes.

Fusible links are a normal looking wire with a "rubbery" looking insulator, you will not see any fuse. The "fuse" in a fusible link is the internal wire inside the insulation of the wire. When a short happens the internal wire melts instead of your harness, sometimes you will see the burn on the outside of the insulator, other times you will have to pull on it and see if it comes apart. Check your firewall harness connector on the drivers side as mentioned above, you may have a fusible link in that location.

I just looked and and checked both sides of the fuse link. I didn't get any juice on either side.

So,just for the heck of it I tried the ignition. It started! I didn't do anything and haven't even looked at the car since yesterday. The only thing I can even think of is that when I touched the link by the drivers firewall it must have made a connection. Is that possible? Should I do away with the links and just put the wires together?

Rick

 

[Derrick]

I just looked and and checked both sides of the fuse link. I didn't get any juice on either side.

So,just for the heck of it I tried the ignition. It started! I didn't do anything and haven't even looked at the car since yesterday. The only thing I can even think of is that when I touched the link by the drivers firewall it must have made a connection. Is that possible? Should I do away with the links and just put the wires together?

Rick

That's exactly what mine did. Car had no power and then the next day it cranks right up. I drove it some more, not knowing what the problem was and then it left me stranded on the road one night with no power, no lights. It'd be best to replace the links....they're put there to prevent damage to major components.

 

[LLC5]

I just looked and and checked both sides of the fuse link. I didn't get any juice on either side.

So,just for the heck of it I tried the ignition. It started! I didn't do anything and haven't even looked at the car since yesterday. The only thing I can even think of is that when I touched the link by the drivers firewall it must have made a connection. Is that possible? Should I do away with the links and just put the wires together?

Rick

I would turn on the headlights and wiggle the wires you moved or wiggled including the firewall connector, and see if the lights go out, you want to find the problem before you get stranded. Definately do NOT bypass a fusible link, if it is bad replace it properly or you could melt a harness and possibly start a fire.

 

[RickT]

Yes,I will wiggle the wires and see if I can fine the problem. I know it's just a matter of time before this happens again. Can I buy fusible links at any parts store or is it a dealer item? Also am I looking for a certain amperage link?

Thanks

Rick

 

[LLC5]

Yes,I will wiggle the wires and see if I can fine the problem. I know it's just a matter of time before this happens again. Can I buy fusible links at any parts store or is it a dealer item? Also am I looking for a certain amperage link?

Thanks

Rick

You can buy fusible links at a parts store, they come in different amperage ratings with associated colors. If memory serves me right, the fusible link should be 2 gauges smaller than the wire being protected (example: a 10 gauge wire should have a 14 gauge fusible link). I would check with your dealer and see if he can tell you the correct fusible link gauge size if indeed it is a bad fusible link, if he doesn't know find someone who does (call a corvette specialist), you do NOT want the wrong size installed, it's way too important. That taped wire you mentioned would be a place to start, and wiggle the firewall connector firmly as it could be a bad connection, and not a fuse link. If the firewall connector has a fuse link in it, pull on it and see if it comes apart, if it does then it is burned.

 

[gmjunkie]

You can buy fusible links at a parts store, they come in different amperage ratings with associated colors. If memory serves me right, the fusible link should be 2 gauges smaller than the wire being protected (example: a 10 gauge wire should have a 14 gauge fusible link). I would check with your dealer and see if he can tell you the correct fusible link gauge size if indeed it is a bad fusible link, if he doesn't know find someone who does (call a corvette specialist), you do NOT want the wrong size installed, it's way too important. That taped wire you mentioned would be a place to start, and wiggle the firewall connector firmly as it could be a bad connection, and not a fuse link. If the firewall connector has a fuse link in it, pull on it and see if it comes apart, if it does then it is burned.

You can buy fusible links separately or you can buy it in bulk!! I use allot of it sometimes,so I buy bulk,I try to keep 10,12,14 and 16 in my cabinet!!I'd bet the 2 wires that are taped and connected are supposed to have links in them!!I usually solder them in and heat shrink them!!

 

[LLC5]

Solder and heat shrink tubing is definately the correct way to do any wiring repair.

Hey Junk, do you use the 2 gauge smaller rule when you install you bulk link? It's been a long time since I have had to do it.

 

[gmjunkie]

Solder and heat shrink tubing is definately the correct way to do any wiring repair.

Yeah,but usually with the individual fusible links at the parts stores,they send a crimp connector in the package!!Seams to me that if you use a crimp connector,they will corrode in the connector in a couple months and heat up at the connector and blow again close to the connector!!

Hey Junk, do you use the 2 gauge smaller rule when you install you bulk link? It's been a long time since I have had to do it.

You had it right saying 12 ga. wire should have a 16 ga. link,but actually thats 4 ga. and not 2!!

 

[LLC5]

Yeah,but usually with the individual fusible links at the parts stores,they send a crimp connector in the package!!Seams to me that if you use a crimp connector,they will corrode in the connector in a couple months and heat up at the connector and blow again close to the connector!!

You had it right saying 12 ga. wire should have a 16 ga. link,but actually thats 4 ga. and not 2!!

1) Totally agree about the crimps, although I do have uninsulated crimps with holes in the middle, that you solder and heat shrink after crimping.


2) I stand corrected, but I have never seen odd numbered sizes, have you?

 

[gmjunkie]

1) Totally agree about the crimps, although I do have uninsulated crimps with holes in the middle, that you solder and heat shrink after crimping.

I have used the same thing!!

2) I stand corrected, but I have never seen odd numbered sizes, have you?

Never!!