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Got the While I'm at it bug after pedal hits floor and get (IP) Brake light comes on

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WhiteKnight

Guest
Got the While I'm at it bug after pedal hits floor and the (IP) Brake light comes on

My spongy break pedal has now gone completely soft and the instrument panel break light comes on when the pedal hits the floor. The other symptoms are very low fluid in the front chamber of the master cylinder and a leak from the left front caliper, but not from the line.
So I started making my list of parts I think I'll need and the “while I'm at it” bug hit. So now I'm planning a major suspension rebuild, which it does need.
Now the on the list are a complete 4 wheel brake re-built kit (SS o-ring calipers, pads, rubber lines, fluid, master cylinder, and a SS parking brake kit). “While am at it” might as well replace the dry rotted bushings on the suspension and why not put a front steering rebuild kit on too.. tie rod ends, ball joints etc.. and a steering coupler.. yeah.. and the ride height is low compared to most of the other vettes in my local club. Someone once said that it looked like my rear spring is needing to be replaced but the front springs look “newer” than most of the other suspension and I don’t think they are stock, so might as well get one of those packages with the front/rear springs, shocks and new sway bars.. So thinking since I'm going to have all that apart I should probably do the front bearings too and get one of those greasing tools for the rear bearings, or should I go for it and rebuild the rear trailing arms too?
Additionally I'm wondering if I should replace the rotors with some power slot ones? 'cause I'll eventually be building the motor or swapping it with a crate, but that's probably not happening this round (my wallet hopes). But I am planning on adding the ignition shielding back on.
Also on the list this round are tools like the power motive brake bleeder, coil spring compressor, shock mount remover, pad install clips, alignment shim kit (front), pickle fork set, dial gauge (to check run out) [where can I buy that from] and the AIM, shop and service manuals.
Haven’t even put a wrench to it yet and I'm already off the deep end..
Where should I start? Should I pull the suspect caliper and see if it's been sleeved before?
 
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WhiteKnight

Guest
Pulled front caliper

Ok.. I pulled the caliper and I think it looks like it is a sleeved unit with a lip seal on the piston. I did find a not so nice grove in the front rotor and the outside pad was disentigrating.

The rear on that same side does not look bad.. I think it's sleeved too, not sure on the seal type. It's been off before as there are no rivets. The passenger side fron and rear look about like the back pics below.. I'll do both fronts, but should I do both axles? (that bugs wearing off) :crazy

Here are some pictures.













Rear Brake



 

red70vette

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
328
Location
Cortlandt Manor,NY
Corvette
1970 red cpe 350/300
I guess it all depends on the time and money you have available. All of those rebuilds will make the car handle and stop better so if you have plenty of both go for it.
 

lone73

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
456
Location
Texas
Corvette
'73 4spd coupe, '04 6 speed coupe
Steve,
You need to decide how often you plan on (or would like) driving it. I did the route you're talking about when I bought my '73 and the car ended up on jack stands for more than a year. Thats a good way to lose interest in it for some. The best vette driving weather has just arrived here in Texas. I'd do the brakes on both ends, enjoy driving it for a couple more months and save the suspension for this winter. Your list will probably change and grow by then anyway JMHO.
good luck with it
.
.
.
 

IH2LOSE

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
3,908
Location
We Will All Meet Again
Corvette
1966,and a 1962 thats almost complete
I am trying to figure this one out.

Looks like one of the plungers was stuck exstened and cause one side of the pad to were out??

For sure I would do the soft brake lines,re-seal both front calipers, cut both rotors,

New inner and outter wheel bearing, and cotter pin

Quick fluid flush with the motive bleeder

And your back in buisness

I dont pull a car down,unless it can be completed in a week end, Untill the last car show of the season (Oct 22nd)
 
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WhiteKnight

Guest
red70vette - I have the time.. well I'm not in a real hurry. Been looking for a excuse to do the work for a while as I knew it would be needed. Money.. I've haven't yet consulted the house bank.. but we can swing it, just need to convience her of that.

lone73 - I know and the weather was great today. I had not been driving her much latley cause the brakes and she just feels "loose" when driving. So I had almost lost interest and figure now is a good time to fix some things so I can drive her more. Maybe, I'll do as you suggest and fix the brakes then save the rest for the cooler season.

As a side note I bled the brakes last night and got the pedal pressure back and the light stopped comming on. Then I (bravley, foolishly, stupidly) drove it over to the voulnteer event my work did today. That was on the other side of Elgin.. so maybe 50-60 miles round trip. Great drive, but I did feel it pulling to the right when the brakes were applied and at stop lights the pedal pressure would fade. After I got home I pulled it apart and saw how bad it was.. kept thinking that was stupid, glad someone was looking out for me.

IH2LOSE - It had been leaking for a while.. I saw the fluid coming from the caliper way back when I replaced the hormonic balancer in March. So i'm not sure if the leak caused the pad to come apart or if I did have a piston sticking and that caused the pad to go.
 
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WhiteKnight

Guest
I'm was just sitting here thinking.. if I can get aproval on the parts I want.. I will probably only do the brakes now and save the rest for later.
 
W

WhiteKnight

Guest
I found that the calipers have SS sleeves already but the lip type of seal. I want to go with the o-ring type as the car does not get a lot of driving time.

Once I got the left front pulled apart I did find one of the pistons was sticking. All the others came out easily after removing the dust seal, one I had to pull out. It looked like the lip seal on that one had flipped and was letting the fluid past. I think this caused the piston to stick and allow fluid to get on the pad causing it to come apart. IH2LOSE was correct on the sticking piston.

How do I tell if the calipers are still good? I want to just put a o-ring kit in them, but not if they are bad.
 
W

WhiteKnight

Guest
Parts Ordered

I was able to determine the calipers are still good.

I ordered the rebuild kit, new pads and new parking brake parts.

I found a good deal on a set of brass drifts and the dial indicator tool (HF tools).

shouldn't be long now.
 

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