milehigreg
Well-known member
I took her out Saturday for a 110 mile road trip. Everythng went well. The car starts quickly and idles perfectly. Runs like a champ; although I don't notice any improvement in performance. It was great fun having her back on the road. I thought a wrap up was in order so where we go!
It really wasn't a hard start or a no start. It was a crank/fire/die condition. There is very little help in the service manual for this malfunction. Check fuel system. Check MAF sensor. That is about it.
No codes were set through this entire ordeal. OBD-1 was limited to only a few things.
Checked the fuel system and found a failing pump. 23 PSI max. R & Rd the pump and strainer. This is a pretty easy job on this car. You don't have to drop the tank. Now I have proper fuel pressure but that wasn't the problem.
Did lots of research on the TPI and ignition system through the wiring diagrams and at thirdgen.org. I got too smart for my own good though. Member ecss posted early on that I should check the resistance of the injectors. I didn't think with what I knew about the system that that could be the problem. I didn't know though that the ECM could sense the short and shut down. Thanks for not saying I told you so ecss.
While I was going through this, two other forum memebers, MNSIU and ap g35c had the same malfunction. They were able to go straight to the problem and get if fixed bacause they read the thread.
I replaced several things but over the next year I will complete the job by replacing the cap,rotor, plug wires, coil, and pickup coil. All these things wear out over time.
A couple of tips:
When you start messing with the EGR and FPR, be VERY careful. The small gage vacuum lines become brittle over the years. 1/8" ID tubing works as repair coupling material.
Loosen the gas cap before you disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail. The heat of the day caused enough pressure in the fuel tank to push at least a gallon of fuel out onto the garage floor the next day.
Moral(s) of the story:
Crank/Fire/Die condition - Check the resistance of the injectors! It is an easy check. Apparently, it is a relatively common problem with our cars. If one is shorted out, the ecm shuts down the car.
Even if you aren't totally stumped and begging for help, it helps others when you document problems and solutions with your car. Two members were assisted with the same problem on their cars by reading the thread.
Final Tally:
New fuel pump and strainer, new ECM, new ignition module, new EGR, new FPR, new injectors. <$500
Tons of knowledge about my car.
60? hours of time spent
Satisfaction of knowing I fixed it myself.
Debt of gratitude to those who helped with technical advice and encouragement.
It really wasn't a hard start or a no start. It was a crank/fire/die condition. There is very little help in the service manual for this malfunction. Check fuel system. Check MAF sensor. That is about it.
No codes were set through this entire ordeal. OBD-1 was limited to only a few things.
Checked the fuel system and found a failing pump. 23 PSI max. R & Rd the pump and strainer. This is a pretty easy job on this car. You don't have to drop the tank. Now I have proper fuel pressure but that wasn't the problem.
Did lots of research on the TPI and ignition system through the wiring diagrams and at thirdgen.org. I got too smart for my own good though. Member ecss posted early on that I should check the resistance of the injectors. I didn't think with what I knew about the system that that could be the problem. I didn't know though that the ECM could sense the short and shut down. Thanks for not saying I told you so ecss.
While I was going through this, two other forum memebers, MNSIU and ap g35c had the same malfunction. They were able to go straight to the problem and get if fixed bacause they read the thread.
I replaced several things but over the next year I will complete the job by replacing the cap,rotor, plug wires, coil, and pickup coil. All these things wear out over time.
A couple of tips:
When you start messing with the EGR and FPR, be VERY careful. The small gage vacuum lines become brittle over the years. 1/8" ID tubing works as repair coupling material.
Loosen the gas cap before you disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail. The heat of the day caused enough pressure in the fuel tank to push at least a gallon of fuel out onto the garage floor the next day.
Moral(s) of the story:
Crank/Fire/Die condition - Check the resistance of the injectors! It is an easy check. Apparently, it is a relatively common problem with our cars. If one is shorted out, the ecm shuts down the car.
Even if you aren't totally stumped and begging for help, it helps others when you document problems and solutions with your car. Two members were assisted with the same problem on their cars by reading the thread.
Final Tally:
New fuel pump and strainer, new ECM, new ignition module, new EGR, new FPR, new injectors. <$500
Tons of knowledge about my car.
60? hours of time spent
Satisfaction of knowing I fixed it myself.
Debt of gratitude to those who helped with technical advice and encouragement.
