harmonic balancer install ?

[ro.co2]

In my previous discussion I found out that my balancer is bad and needs replaced. I'am thinking of installing it myself but have hit a road block. This balancer has no center bolt and has to be pressed on. Ive been told I can pound it on with a 2x4 and large hammer. First is this the proper way and if it is what do I need to know before I start this. Thanks Roland.

 

[vette-dude]

If this is on a SB chevy then the bolt is broken off in the crank nose. You will have to get the old broken stub out before installing the new one. Beating on the balancer to install could ruin the thrust bearing and could possibly harm the rods and main brgs. You can use an easy out and remove the old broken bolt but be careful not to drill into the crank snout itself. The crank bolt is all that holds on the balancer. Good luck.

Randy

 

[mcjim]

Roland,
Not all small blocks(283 and standard 327 engines) have the crank tapped.The GM service manual instructions are to oil the snout and drive it on with a GM# special tool(but a large hunk of aluminum or wood works fine) untill it seats.You can also warm up the balancer a LITTLE. Be careful here ,dont get it hot enough to mess with the rubber in the balancer or hurt the seal that is in the timing cover.

 

[vette-dude]

Ooops. Roland he's right about that. Forgot about the older engines. My Bad. Just don't get carried away with the hammering on of the new balancer. Sorry again for the mis-information but in the future try to fill in the blanks as to what year and engine you are working on. Thanks.

Randy

 

[ro.co2]

Has anyone done this with the radiator in or do you have to remove it . I have a/c so its alot to remove if I dont have to. Thanks for the replys. Roland.

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

Considering how much radiators run, I would take it out. Just my 2 cents-

CHEV66JB

 

[JohnZ]

Before you install it, measure how long the crank snout is from the front of the cam sprocket to the end of the snout, and measure how long the hole in the balancer is from its rear face to the front face; the difference is how far the nose of the crank will be recessed into the balancer. This way you can verify by measuring (not guessing) that the balancer is fully seated against the cam sprocket.

Before you start, make sure there are no burrs adjacent to the keys on the crank (dress them down if you find any); put a light film of anti-seize on the crank snout so it doesn't gall as it's installed. Make sure you only pound on the center hub of the balancer, not on the outer ring - I use a shot-filled dead-blow hammer and a socket slightly larger than the hole in the balancer hub.

 

[ro.co2]

Thanks for the replys everyone. John Id like to ask you if you think this can be done with the radiator in. Roland.

 

[JohnZ]

Dunno - I've never tried it in the car, but it looks like it could be done with the fan and shroud out of the way. A 4# plastic-coated shot-filled dead-blow hammer works great for me - more impact force with less swing arc than a regular hammer.

 

[ro.co2]

Well I got the old balancer off today. It was barely hanging on. After I got the pulleys and belts out of the way I slid the new one on and used a socket and hammer like john said and it went on like butter. By the way I left the shroud and radiator in and it was no problem. If I ever rebuild this motor and its out of the car you can beleave me the crank is going to be drilled and the balancer bolted to the crank. Who ever came up with the idea of just pressing this thing on must of been a man of faith. Roland.

 

[JohnZ]

Chevy built about 20 million small-blocks with no balancer bolt, but I'm sure nobody at the time ever thought any of them would still be running 40 years later