Headers, manifold, TB, MAF recommendations...

[Mean In Green]

Hi All,

In addition to my current mods (check out my signature), I'm thinking of doing at least headers and intake manifold down the road. That said, what else would be recommended to complement all of those mods and realize my car's potential (if anything), without delving deep into the engine (i.e. no cam, heads, etc)? TB? MAF? And then, of course, what headers and manifold are best? And, of any other recommendations you have, please list the best. When I say "the best", let's assume that money is no option...then I can work my way down from there if the item(s) is too pricey for my wallet. And if you've had experiences with any or all of these mods and the power increases they typically result in, I'd love to hear about them. Thanks fo taking the time to read this and I look forward to your responses!

 

[TODD L GRIFFITH]

Other mods

Hello,
If you are going to do intake mods, I have a few suggestions that I have done myself. A K&N filter is usually a good start. Changing the MAF sensor or installing 1000 cfm MAF ends will increase airflow. A Vortex Power Duct replaces the stock air bridge to your throttlebody that results in a less restrictive airflow. Replace the throttlebody with a BBK 80mm, and change the intake manifold to a Z06 intake manifold. You may want to consider providing cooler air by relocating the MAT sensor to a location ahead of the stock MAF. The coolant by-pass kit, by-passes coolant that normally recirulates through the throttlebody. You can also replace the plastic fog lamp inserts with screens. Changing the thermostat to a 160 degree thermostat will knock off 20 degress from you engine coolant temperature. You can even install a fan relay and switch that allows you to set what temp. your fan starts. Now you are running cooler with denser air that carries more oxygen for combustion. Now you can think about getting more fuel into the cylinder. Seeing that you have a 98', you can install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I've installed a MAF translator that enables me to change the injector pulsewidth, advancing the spark for more fuel. I have also installed a Jet stage II chip. An aftermarket catback exhaust will give you better flow to get rid of the mix. More power from a simple recipe; more air, more fuel, more spark and less restrictive exhaust. Hope some of these ideas help.

 

[EHS]

Mean in Green:

Todd has some good ideas. Just some things to consider with his recommendations:

1. Larger MAF ends (without the screen), will give you more horsepower at the low and high end (about 10 hp in my case, tested over several dyno sessions with c4c5specialist monitoring the runs with a Tech II), but at the expense of driveability and throttle crispness. Your choice.

Most people eventually come back to using the MAFs with the screen -- particularly in the pre- 2001 models. If you will be strictly at the track at WOT, then by all means install the MAF ends.

2. The MAF translator only has an effect on the A/F at full throttle (anything above 80% throttle position). Below that, the computer will relearn the tables and adjust to OEM factory specs within about 50 - 250 mile depending on how you drive. Again, at the dragstrip -- not an issue. On a road course where you will be at partial throttle through the turns and feathering in other parts, you won't notice anything.

Good luck.

 

[Don&Kelly]

Mean:
I put a ZO6 intake manifold, a Vararam air intake, took out the MAF screen, switched to a 342 transaxle (from a 315), added a Corsa Pace Car Exhaust System, added the Corsa "X" Pipe and last but certainly not least put on a set of "Belanger" Long Tube Headers on my '00 A4 - man what a difference... it's like a new vette ..


I (like you) do not want to go inside my engine ... but these work very well ...

Hope this helps ..

 

[Mean In Green]

Kelly&Don,

You didn't happen to have your car dynoed, did you? I was wondeering exactly how much of a power increase you got with those mods. Thanks!

 

[Don&Kelly]

Mean:

My stock vette dyno'd @ 280 RWHP divided by .80 (A4) = 350 hp @ the fly wheel.

after adding exhaust, Z06 intake manifold , cold air filter, then removed MAF air screen & it dyno'd @ 317 RWHP = 396 at fly wheel

Switching from the 315 rearend to the 342 rearend cost me some dyno hp , but increased my torque (according to my tuner, and others here on the CAC), I didn't dyno after just that change ... but this change caused a dramatic increase in pickup ...

after adding the Belenger Long Tube Headers it dyno'd @ 335 RWHP = 419 at fly wheel - so I got 20 RWHP from the Belengers, but it was probably more like 30 to 35 RWHP if I hadn't swapped to the 342 rearend (but boy am I glad I did.. it runs like a scalded dog)


Hope this helps ...

 

[Mean In Green]

Thanks for the all the helpuf info. I will definitely go with the Z06 intake manifold and Belanger headers sometime in the future (when I can afford it). Not sure about switching the rearend, but I'll consider it when the time comes. Is the gas mileage worse with the new gearing? Regarding the removal of the MAF screen...Isn't it there for a reason? Such as to prevent any debris that happens to get sucked in from getting beyond it? Is it really worth removing? Also, did you consider a larger TB and/or an upgraded MAFS? Or is it only worth doing those things if you delve deep into the engine? Thanks again!