Headlight Frame Detached!

[igasper10]

Hey all, I'm up to the headlights on my 74' L48 project. The RH headlight assembly sits fine in the front clip, but the LH side assembly sits low in its cutout in the front clip. I took the hood off so I can get in there and I saw that the metal frame piece on the very top of the headlight assembly has come down about 1/2" from the fiberglass of the clip. I'm hoping its not due to rusting out. Maybe just some bolts that hold it up in its proper position??? Any help please??!!

ian - ;help

 

[igasper10]

Still waiting...

Still waiting for anyones suggestions or comments. I know I'm not the only one that has had this problem.

 

[vette-dude]

you might try looking at the diagrams in the Ecklers catalogs. They show some pretty good pics as how the headlights and housing fit. I don't have a C-3 so really can't help other than what I have seen in catalog. Someone has a shop manual and I am sure they will respond.

Randy

 

[lrh]

There are 2 things possible here:
1. the long strip of metal that runs all the way across the front of the car has delamed from the fiberglass--- big bucks
OR
2. this is what happened to mine. There is a metal frame that holds the head light assembly. Mine was broken, so I took it out and ordered another one. It does not seem like it will come in and out of the headlight hole but it does. It is hard to see but you should be able to feel the bolts that hold this metal frame in and wheather or not it is broken. Hope that helps.

Third thing might be adjustments (of which there are many) to adjust the assembly higher or lower, side to side in the hole.

 

[69MyWay]

Sounds to me that the front surround support came free from the fiberglass.

Do you have warpage, bubbles, distortions in the upper fiberglass finish above the headlights and below the hood?

If so, you have rust up there and the metal pulled away. It is a fairly major project to fix.

However, for now you could first spray some rust stopper like Ospho up there. Let it dry 100%, then pump some two part epoxy or bonding agent of your choice in there and clamp it together. Cross your fingers and say some prayers, and it might hold, and you can simply go back and adjust the headlight doors as needed to get a perfect flush fit.

 

[wwilkins]

It just happened on mine too. My brace from the bottom of the radiator to that cross piece is missing so I made one from some small angle brackets and a long piece of threaded rod. I set the nuts in a way that I can extend the bracket to push it up into place. The guy who runs the local vette shop said to put some two part epoxy in between the fiberglass and the metal brace and it will hold after the bracket had been extended. Once it sets replace the homemade bracket with the right one. That bracket is only a few bucks from Zip. So I made the bracket and installed it and now my lights fit like they should and as soon as I can get to the paint store and get some fiberglass friendly epoxy I'll glue it up like it should be.

Hope this helps


Bill

 

[LC2001]

The metal is bonded to the fiberglass on the underside and will need to be rebonded. I use Lord Fuser products from an auto paint store. This is not easy and headlights will need to be removed. Lyle

 

[ChuckG]

The strip is not only bonded, but also riveted. Rust/corrosion attacks the rivets. Water leaks up to the rivet heads, leading to the line of "pock marks" behind the headlights, following the hood contour. The rivets themselves deteoriorate, and lose grip. Bonding alone MIGHT hold it, but again, it might not. Chuck

 

[LC2001]

Chuck In 1973 GM quit using the rivets and you will not see the track marks the rivets leave. 73 and up were just bonded but rust will make them come loose. Lyle

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Bonding will hold the header bar, I replaced mine since it was severely rusted and some of the nut plates had come off. I didn't use rivets, just bonding adhesive.

I used epoxy based stuff and it bonds EVERYTHING you can think of.