heater door

[norwegianvette]

Easyest way to get to the air mix motor. I have vacuum working and the reason to my lack of het must be that the valve do not operate. Happened after i pulled some speaker wires through ad

thanks,
Steve

 

[helphos]

Air temp mixer door

Let's swap! my convertible is stuck on heat. I'd like to know how to get the motor out, too, so I can have AC again!

 

[Schrade]

Do you have to pull the blower motor to get to the temp door controller?

 

[norwegianvette]

Do you have to pull the blower motor to get to the temp door controller?

I dont know, i do some investegation here first.

 

[helphos]

FSM way to get to the Air Mix Motor

NB This is not the "Easiest" way, but the way the FSM says. (FSM=Financial Security for Mechanics)
1. REmove the Heater Core Case from the car. (29 steps)
2. Unbolt the Temp Door Motor from the TOP of the Heater Core Case.
Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

Now, is there a saner way to do it? :confused

BTW I ran the diagnostics by pushing the Fan Buttons to go into diagnostics mode and it came up with code '2' for diagnostic test 0, which means that door motor is the cause of all my problems. ;help

 

[Schrade]

NB This is not the "Easiest" way, but the way the FSM says. (FSM=Financial Security for Mechanics)
1. REmove the Heater Core Case from the car. (29 steps)
2. Unbolt the Temp Door Motor from the TOP of the Heater Core Case.
Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

Now, is there a saner way to do it? :confused

BTW I ran the diagnostics by pushing the Fan Buttons to go into diagnostics mode and it came up with code '2' for diagnostic test 0, which means that door motor is the cause of all my problems. ;help

I like that - FSM (with a slight amendment) - $$ security for HOME mechanic.

The $$ security for the shop mechanic is, "Well, it's probably the x sensor, since it's x DTC code. We can replace that, and that should do it." And the customer says, "Ok".

But it's NOT x DTC code; it's x DTC circuit code, and you don't OK x sensor replacement without doing x DTC circuit code diagnostics, as per FSM.

But Joevette owner pays, leaves the shop, no codes or SES, Open loop cold motor, gets home before Closed loop when the SES comes back on since the CIRCUIT was bad, not the sensor, and the first time it comes back on is 3 days later, and Joevette owner doesn't want to confront the unscrupulous/inept wrench hack.

The hack doesn't want to do FSM diags, and Joevette owner doesn't want to PAY for proper diags, (cause it really does take time to do it right).

SIR Rantsalot OUT!!!
............:soapbox

 

[norwegianvette]

NB This is not the "Easiest" way, but the way the FSM says. (FSM=Financial Security for Mechanics)
1. REmove the Heater Core Case from the car. (29 steps)
2. Unbolt the Temp Door Motor from the TOP of the Heater Core Case.
Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

Now, is there a saner way to do it? :confused

BTW I ran the diagnostics by pushing the Fan Buttons to go into diagnostics mode and it came up with code '2' for diagnostic test 0, which means that door motor is the cause of all my problems. ;help

Wow. Can you please give me the pages in the FSM. I been looking but get confused (not a tecnician);help

Steve

 

[norwegianvette]

Wow. Can you please give me the pages in the FSM. I been looking but get confused (not a tecnician);help

Steve

I meen the page numbers not your pages

Steve

 

[norwegianvette]

pictures

Anyone have som pictures of this operation. I am worried, hardly any room to work under the dasch.

 

[helphos]

FSM reference to extract your heater

Wow. Can you please give me the pages in the FSM. I been looking but get confused (not a tecnician);help

Steve

This is from the 93 FSM, and its on pages 1B-29 to 1B-31.

And it is daunting.
Good luck!
Paul

 

[norwegianvette]

This is from the 93 FSM, and its on pages 1B-29 to 1B-31.

And it is daunting.
Good luck!
Paul

Thanks Paul, i have a look and if it is to bad a job i put it to profesionals. I might hav pulled the door from the vacuum valve when i routed new speakerwires that way ad It was nice and warm before i did that job.

Steve

 

[helphos]

maybe a Magician could help!

Thanks Paul, i have a look and if it is to bad a job i put it to profesionals. I might hav pulled the door from the vacuum valve when i routed new speakerwires that way ad It was nice and warm before i did that job.

Steve

If you can be patient, maybe someone on the forum has a trick or shortcut up their sleeve. It's a long shot, but the alternative strikes me as real expensive.

Think about this- If you take out that device in the engine compartment that allows you to get a view of the door, you might see your speaker wires and be able to manipulate them out of the door's way. I removed it in my car, but the door wouldnt budge. So I have few choices- remove the heater core or wait for someone to come up with a helpful workaround.
Good luck!
Paul

 

[norwegianvette]

If you can be patient, maybe someone on the forum has a trick or shortcut up their sleeve. It's a long shot, but the alternative strikes me as real expensive.

Think about this- If you take out that device in the engine compartment that allows you to get a view of the door, you might see your speaker wires and be able to manipulate them out of the door's way. I removed it in my car, but the door wouldnt budge. So I have few choices- remove the heater core or wait for someone to come up with a helpful workaround.
Good luck!
Paul

My problem is that i am to optimistic When routing the wires i had to rout the iPod adapter to the glove box and the GPS arial up to the light sensor where i have it now. Was thinking that when i first did a job under the glove box why not rout the left front speaker wire the same way and try to push it down to the foot well. So i did and it got stuck ad I could not leave it so i pulled it back up and that is when i think i did the mistake and most likely pulled the controll arm off or did something to the door system. So the speaker wire is not in the way anymore

Steve

 

[helphos]

heater vent door

So many problems come from trying to get a decent sound system in your corvette. My Corvette came with an amp screwed to the bulkhead behind the passenger seat. the seat fits flush against it and it scrapes the seat back. Naturally the seat motor doesnt work and I can't move it. The car has a 200 watt stereo and I think the amp is at least another 100.

If GM had put better stereos in these things in the first place, we wouldnt be facing these challenges.

Oh, well, it keeps us out of trouble, tinkering with our cars!

We might both have to pull the heaters out of our Vettes.
Best,
Paul

 

[Kenny]

My problem is that i am to optimistic When routing the wires i had to rout the iPod adapter to the glove box and the GPS arial up to the light sensor where i have it now. Was thinking that when i first did a job under the glove box why not rout the left front speaker wire the same way and try to push it down to the foot well. So i did and it got stuck ad I could not leave it so i pulled it back up and that is when i think i did the mistake and most likely pulled the controll arm off or did something to the door system. So the speaker wire is not in the way anymore

Steve

I have a problem with mine also. It looks like an involved process to get to it Haven't had the time to work on it yet. The motor control is electric and sets directly on TOP of the heater box. On mine the door would move from hot to cold and not hold a temp. I found the motor plug under the dash. For the winter I watched it move to full hot ad and unplugged it. Now that it is warm out I reconnected it watched for it to move to full cold and unplugged it again. You can watch through blower controller hole. Good luck hope this helps

 

[norwegianvette]

I have a problem with mine also. It looks like an involved process to get to it Haven't had the time to work on it yet. The motor control is electric and sets directly on TOP of the heater box. On mine the door would move from hot to cold and not hold a temp. I found the motor plug under the dash. For the winter I watched it move to full hot ad and unplugged it. Now that it is warm out I reconnected it watched for it to move to full cold and unplugged it again. You can watch through blower controller hole. Good luck hope this helps

Thanks. With blower controll hole do you meen from the engine side? Where is the electric motor plug located under the dash, i have a vacuum bell all to the right in the foot well which i can see when removing lwer trim.

Steve

 

[norwegianvette]

So many problems come from trying to get a decent sound system in your corvette. My Corvette came with an amp screwed to the bulkhead behind the passenger seat. the seat fits flush against it and it scrapes the seat back. Naturally the seat motor doesnt work and I can't move it. The car has a 200 watt stereo and I think the amp is at least another 100.

If GM had put better stereos in these things in the first place, we wouldnt be facing these challenges.

Oh, well, it keeps us out of trouble, tinkering with our cars!

We might both have to pull the heaters out of our Vettes.
Best,
Paul

The original stereo was not that bad and quite nice looking in my oppinion. When 16 years old and not working it just forced itself through that a new stereo needed to be installed and to fill the hole and at the same time get som modern gadgets i installed a 2Din Pioneer with hard drive, navigation and iPod/Blue thoot. If i new before i started i guess i would had a original re made one.

Steve

 

[Kenny]

Thanks. With blower controll hole do you meen from the engine side? Where is the electric motor plug located under the dash, i have a vacuum bell all to the right in the foot well which i can see when removing lwer trim.

Steve

The control is on the engine side. It's next to the coolant resivoir (sp). The plug is under the dash. It is a 5 wire plug. I'll try to get some pix on Sun.

 

[Schrade]

:confused

Adjustable FPR?

 

[Kenny]

It's a pulsator
That helps to dampen pulsations in the fuel line.