Help Please

[dealin]

We will be selling our '70 LT1. However I am not sure it is a true LT1.
We have been told by numerous people that it is, but ours has factory installed air.
I saw in another post here that this year did not come with air. Where you able to special order it or not?

I have also attached a picture of the tach. Is this the correct red line that I have also seen talked about here?

I know these are dumb question but I don't want to misrep. this car when we do sell it.



We have found some numbers that may help in these questions.

Engine block #: Vo709CTU 70s414487
VIN # on door post: 194670s414487

thanks for your help
Linda

 

[wallyknoch]

A simple check of the Tach photo will tell you that it`s not a 1970 LT1. All of the LT1`s were solid lifter cars and the redline would be 6500 instead of 5500.

 

[dealin]

Thanks for the reply! This is a solid lifter car. I just had the car tuned up, and the mechanic kinda complained about how hard it is to set up with the solid lifters, and he suggested that I go with hydraulic. I said no, leave as is. I don't know if the tach was replaced or what, but does have solid lifters. Thanks again for the input, I appreciate it.

 

[early shark]

Linda:

There are several tell tale items to check, this could help with verification that it could be the real McCoy, since you don't state that you have factory documentation; such as a window sticker, protecto-plate pamphlet, build sheet off of gas tank, or dealer sales invoice.

Should only have signs of single fuel line from tank to fuel pump, also look for transistor ignition amplifier box and harness.

 

[motorman]

We will be selling our '70 LT1. However I am not sure it is a true LT1.
We have been told by numerous people that it is, but ours has factory installed air.
I saw in another post here that this year did not come with air. Where you able to special order it or not?

I have also attached a picture of the tach. Is this the correct red line that I have also seen talked about here?

I know these are dumb question but I don't want to misrep. this car when we do sell it.



We have found some numbers that may help in these questions.

Engine block #: Vo709CTU 70s414487
VIN # on door post: 194670s414487

thanks for your help
Linda

CTU 1970 350 ci,370 hp,4 B,4 sp,TI corvette

 

[rainman]

No factory installed air on LT-1s. Also the tach is wrong. However, the engine pad says LT-1. All this stuff can be changed. The question is, was the tach and a/c changed or was the engine changed and restamped. Look through this forum. There are posts that give other clues to try and determine if it is an LT-1. How long have you had the car? What do you know of its past? Have you checked for a tank sticker? Pull all the numbers you can to include block build date, head numbers and date, carb, alt, transmission and rear. Post them here for help. All this together may help to answer your question.

However, based on the CTU, I say the engine is a restamp. I had a 70 Lt-1 with suffix CTK. The car was built in June. Your car being built in July should have had CTK like mine. CTU was used on early LT-1s and had a 6 quart oil pan. Last known CTU LT-1 was built in early May.

 

[tomtom72]

Hi Linda, Just my two cents. Someone, if you are not the original owner, could have gotten an LT-1 motor from a junk yard and put it in the car. I just offer this as an alternative explaination as to how that motor comes to be in your car. The people here are correct about the tach, no fuel return line, U-joints and yokes are from a bigblock along with the half-shafts, the exhaust is 2.5" on LT-1, only yr for A/C is post January 1972(only 240 built), Early 70 LT-1's had no P/S cause they used 5 qt oil pan(assist cylinder hits front of oil pan) the later 70's had 4 qt pan and P/S. Rear end could only be 3.55's, 3.70's, 4.11's, no 3.08 or 3.36. If you have transistor ignition your car could have been a 350/350 car originally(L46 option), cause those could be had with A/C & a 4-spd. Also no LT-1 had an expansion tank for the radiator overflow hose, the mounting holes should not even be there over the right inner fender. Also the radiators on the LT-1's were copper, not aluminium. The NCRS Judging & Tech Manual has all the specs if you need them. Tom

 

[dealin]

Thanks everyone for such good advice. We will be looking for as many numbers as we can find, and will post later in the week.

We really appreciate everyones input, and help.
Linda