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Help! Replacing 88 Fuel Injectors

Green LT1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2003
Messages
95
Location
Bloomington, IL
Corvette
1997 White Coupe
I will be replacing the fuel injectors on my Dad's 1988 L-98 very soon. I have bought the injectors, gasket set and new EGR valve. This does not seem to be a huge project, but I have never attempted this before. Are there any particular pitfalls to avoid, or helpful tips? Does anyone know of any links that explain the process in any detail, with pictures? I have read the Helms manual, but it is not all that detailed. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
 
I've never had to change the injectors but I think it'll take the better part of the afternoon.

Does the intake manifold have to come off? If so, that will be quite a bit of work getting to it.

I changed my EGR last summer and it was enough work for me. You'll have to remove the plenum, which isn't bad. Just make sure to watch out for the vacuum lines on the side of the plenum, the electrical line underneath the plenum and the brake booster line at the bottom rear of the plenum.

I don't know if you can get away with just unbolting the TB from the plenum. When I did my EGR, I could get away with just unbolting the TB from the plenum instead of taking the whole TB off.

BTW, the EGR is standard while the other bolts are metric. Go figure!:L
 
Edmond, thanks for the tips! By the way, I see you also have a 35th Anniversary model. My dad's is #367, 24,000 miles. This is the kind of information I am after - what problems did others encounter, and what should I watch out for? I do not need to remove the intake, but I am not sure if I can get away with removing just the plenum, or if I need to remove the runners also (I think I do). Any other suggestions/comments are very welcome. Thanks again!
 
I have not removed the runners but it appears that in order to get to the lower bolts on the runners, you would have to remove the valve cover.:ugh

Just watch out for the lines and other stuff because they are 17 years old and some have probably gotten brittle at this point. It's just an age thing, pretty normal in my book.
 
Edmond said:
BTW, the EGR is standard while the other bolts are metric. Go figure!:L
The EGR Valve is 3/8" bolt, and they are awkward to get to.
Out of frustration I sawed part of the wrench and did it this way.

3-8_wrench_0.JPG
 
What I did for the EGR bolts:

For one bolt, forgot which one, I used a short 3/8" open end. Then I used a piece of conduit as an extension and got it out.

For the other one, I have these "claw" looking like wrenches. It's kind of like an open end wrench but only about 1/4 of the wrench is opened. Then I put a universal on there and then an extension which loosened the nut.

But if you're taking the runners off, there is no need for all the adjustments. You'll gain easy access to the EGR with the runners off.
 
Be real careful of the plug at the back of the plenum,Underneath it at the back by the large vacume metal line you can't see it until you lift the plenum up. The electrical wire is real short and made to break and pis you off.

The conector is real brittle and upside down.
If you break it,you may not be able to plug it back in.
I would only use the factory EGR valve .The after market vacume conector is in the wrong place and you will have a hard time setting the plenum back down far enough to clear.
 
Thank you all very much for the helpful tips. I will post another thread when I am finished with the job, maybe even with pictures, if it would be of any help to anyone else.
 
Make sure that when you have the fuel rail off that you replace the o-rings that are on the cross pipes. If you havent seen already there are 2 cross pipes between the fuel rails. If you dont change the o-rings now - you probably will later :)
 
Green LT1 said:
I will be replacing the fuel injectors on my Dad's 1988 L-98 very soon. I have bought the injectors, gasket set and new EGR valve. This does not seem to be a huge project, but I have never attempted this before. Are there any particular pitfalls to avoid, or helpful tips? Does anyone know of any links that explain the process in any detail, with pictures? I have read the Helms manual, but it is not all that detailed. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

As others have said, remove valve covers, plenum, then runners. Get a tube wrench for the vacuum line instead of an open end wrench.

Get a fire extinguisher and rag, and release the pressure from the fuel system because you'll have to take the fuel rail off. Unbolt the fuel lines, then the fuel rail from the intake manifold, and wiggle the rail off.

I used some lithium grease on the o-rings of the injectors and on the holes they press into.
 

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