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Henny496's "major" project

Joined
Nov 11, 2001
Messages
5,979
Location
SouthCentral Ontario
Corvette
www.67HEAVEN.com
Okay guys. Here's some new eye candy for you.

Another look at a "major" C2 project. Tom will be by to add a written description. :eek

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#1

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#2

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#3

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#4

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#5
 
frame pics

Hello
I want to thank 67 Heaven for posting the pics for me, but at least I now have a digital camera.
The overall concept of this chassis is for it to look as stock as possible , yet be race legal. I did not want to cut out the floor and drop on the body, so I have to make everything fit the vette underside. I also did not want numerous pieces of tubing where I could do the job with one piece, just being in the correct location( look clean )
I have the frame on a jig which I made and is very level. I set it up with a really good laser(not $50 model) I then went to the corvette factory chassis dimensions and based my measurements from the factory tooling hole. The GM frame is pinned to the jig at that spot and everything goes from there.
I also did not want to cut big holes in the floor to fit the cage, which I have to have in order to ever race the car. The rear frame is a custom piece with the mandrel bent rails coming from Bear's performance(also custom cage)
pic #1 In the pic you can see the front crossmember of the rear frame(clamp on it) with the rear rails going back. There are 4 tubes going forward. The two outside tubes go inside the GM rails, which I had to slice off the inside portion. It goes through the 3x3 tube and then to a upward sleeve(later pic) The two inner tubes go from the 4 link mounting bracket through the crossmember and then up to the front of the car bending(mandrel bent) into the frame at the rear of the engine where the mid mount plate for the engine will be. There is a large amount of I beam and heavy wall tube supporting the chassis in it's correct locatiopn
pic#2 You can see the front sleeve on the lower left side of the pic.(rear not on yet) It will go into the car and the front cage slides into it. Therefore you can weld the cage on the sleeve inside the car without cutting a large hole. The tube can also be welded under the car from the bottom. You can also see the inside portion of the GM rail gone
pic#3 From this you can see the rear clip and also the chassis brackets to which the rear end is attached via the 4 link
pic #4 This shows the same areas again but gives a closer look at the mounting bracket at the four link to which the inner tubes go through. You can also see some of the tubing to which the chassis is clamped to. The front cage sleeve is also in the lower left corner
pic#5 In this pic you can see the 4 link brackets which hold the rear end in. A lot of chassis companies have the plates butt welded to the inner frame rails. All of the load of the car is at this point, and it is at this point that the chassis is rotated (wheelie) I wanted this area to be extra strong, so the bracket welds on a variety of points and different tubes
In the middle of the pic you can see some custom bent GM frame repo pieces, which I had custom bent at the local metal shop. Once all of the tubing is welded in place they go over top, hiding the 1 5/8 tubing inside and further strenghtening the rear area. I did not want the frame to be double up on the weight, so I made sure everything lined up to this area(2 pcs of 1 5/8 x 36 inches long). You can also see the tubing extending through the frame at the rear, and once the body is set down again and the proper location of the rear frame is determined, the exceessive amount will be trimmed off. You can see the missing area of the GM frame, which is necessary to have to fasten the roll bar to in a similar fashion as the front. The extra pieces of 2x3 in under the round tube is only tacked on to assist the squareness of the rear chassis(get's cut off)
pic#6 In this pic you can see the one piece of custom bent frame that will cover the tubing. The crossmember will also be contoured at the top to match the GM configuration
pic#7 The body is on an overhead trolley by an I-beam (24 ft long) and it can be rolled over and lowered onto the chassis for numerous fits easily by myself
pics #8 and 9 These two shots are from a month prior to this past weekend. The motor is set in its location and it cannot go any lower. I am still unsure on how the fuel will be delivered, but carbs on top of the blower will make the overall engine ht too high. I have a few ideas on this, one of them being an EFI sytem
There is a lot more tubing to be welded in, but it won't all be as large as this. The diagonal bracing will mostly be 1 1/4 in tube. I don't want to add so much tubing so I end up with a 5,500 lb corvette, so proper location is important the first time out.
With the body and frame being built like this, I can pain the chassis a good black frame paint and the underside of the car a flat black(?) I then can set the body on the frame and weld in the cage and touch up the small areas affected by hand with some touch up paint.
The big time killer is making sure everything is where it should be and to prevent the frame from moving/warping during welding. The frame will not interfere with the GM floor area, yet be close enough as to look proper and neat
I hope this analogy and the pics help with any confusion my end goal is to be. I am sure I am forgetting to write down something that I should of
take care
Tom
 
henny496 said:
... but carbs on top of the blower will make the overall engine ht too high. I have a few ideas on this, one of them being an EFI system

Very nice Tom.

Do they make an EFI system that is a 'side-mount' to the blower? I just can't see how you are going to get that any lower... I imagine the faux injector cover/air cleaner must be pretty close to the carb (clearance wise). Years ago I had a 6:71 on a 402BB and the cops loved to stop me because of the height of the supercharger and carbs (2 X 750 cfm Carters) going through the hood. Do you ever plan on driving it on the street? You did mention that you wanted it to 'look as stock as possible'.

Later... Brian
 
Henny,

That looks great! The blower does not look as high as I thought it might. If you were to run a '67 stinger hood it would appear even lower in the car.

Go with electronic injection......BDS has the parts.

Watch for a road trip coming to a garage near you soon;)

Take care,
Brian
 
Tom,

You're into something that few would undertake and hats off to you for tackling a job like this. By the time you are finished it should be strong without the penalty of too much additional weight. I know we all enjoy seeing something like this underway. Best of luck with the remainder of the project.

Rich Lagasse
 
Looks like a great project but I must admit the only thing I recognize in the first few photos are the C clamps. :) Keep the photos and progress reports coming! Good luck and like Larry says, "be safe".
 
63 project

Hello
I will be posting more pics later and that will help to show how things are to be. I have built a few chassis before.
The attempt to look as stock as possible was in reference to the frame. There are some pics from earlier that have been posted to show what I have done to the body for this effect. The rear tires are 19.5 x 33 inch, so it won't look stock but a Hot Rod based on a GM car. I don't want it to look like a purpose built drag car.
The blower height has been of concern to me. The Enderle hat in the picture is 4. 25 inches high with a window size of 3.7 in each. You do not need that much air, so the hat could be lower. I have also heard of a bullhorn intake where the carbs are off to the sides with the ht over the blower only 1 in or 1.5 inches higher. Cross ram motors had this style, but with low boost I don't know how well the fuel distrubution would be. Fuel could puddle at the bottom of the manifold at low boost and lean out a cylinder(not good)
If I go with EFI, the hat can be stretched and lowered, but I still unsure at this point. I have looked for side draft carbs, but even the Weber setups are not as low as I would like.
Any insight or advice from you guys would be welcome on this.
take care
 
richscorvettes said:
Tom,

You're into something that few would undertake and hats off to you for tackling a job like this. By the time you are finished it should be strong without the penalty of too much additional weight. I know we all enjoy seeing something like this underway. Best of luck with the remainder of the project.

Rich Lagasse


Yeah...... What Rich Said....Tom grate project..!! Love to see Mods like these.
Keep the pic's coming..
:beer
 
Tom:

That is quite a project. I know how much work something like this takes. I have looked at your pictures and read your description (several times) but I still need to ask a dumb question. The way I understand it, you are constructing tubular brackets that extend up throught the floor of the car. The body will be placed on the frame and the roll cage will be "inserted" into these brackets and welded - is this correct? My question is - with the body on, do you have sufficient clearance to weld all the way around the brackets?
My reason for asking is that I am thinking about adding a roll bar (or cage) to my next project and I am trying to do it without destroying the floor pan.

Charles
 
cbernhardt said:
Tom:

That is quite a project. I know how much work something like this takes. I have looked at your pictures and read your description (several times) but I still need to ask a dumb question. The way I understand it, you are constructing tubular brackets that extend up throught the floor of the car. The body will be placed on the frame and the roll cage will be "inserted" into these brackets and welded - is this correct? My question is - with the body on, do you have sufficient clearance to weld all the way around the brackets?
My reason for asking is that I am thinking about adding a roll bar (or cage) to my next project and I am trying to do it without destroying the floor pan.

Charles
Hello Charles
The front tube will have lots of clearance as it does not go into the dash but goes straight down at the dash pads. The rear(main roll bar) is going to be a little harder. The roll bar has to go close to the body in order to have the side bar in it's correct placement. With a tig welder I am able to use a short tail on the torch head allowing me to get into a tight area, plus the tube is round so it will only be tight in a small area. In a absolute worst scenario, I would have to notch of dent the birdcage in the quarter panel area to clear the torch head.
I am not sure if this still an issue, but I do know that some of the drag cars had the top main roof hoop not completed welded around, since they could not get that close to the roof. I have seen a couple bracket cars like that. With the cage put in as I am, I can raise the body and make sure the top is welded completely around. In a vette there is not much room, so the top portion of a cage would require some extra thinking ahead of time.
If you just want a roll bar, you could probably have it bent in a little narrower at the bottom, but I can let you know how tight mine is when I weld in the main hoop. My cage also has the front bars weld into the one piece roof hoop from the bottom. This style if offered from Bears and I imagine a few other shops as well. If you have the type of cage that has the side hoop and front bar all in one, with the upper windshield bar seperate from it, you would again have the problem of welding to the top of the cage. If you have the cage in lower so you can weld easier, it won't be a nice tight fit to the body. I will post pics of that when I get to that point, and will give you any dimensions that you may need if you want them
 
henny496 said:
but I do know that some of the drag cars had the top main roof hoop not completed welded around, since they could not get that close to the roof. ..... and will give you any dimensions that you may need if you want them

I too was wondering if the tubes had to be completely welded. Guess it depends on the inspector.

Thanks for the offer of dimensions, but mine will be going into a C1 body. What I would really like to do is build a "bolt in" cage, bolted to plates on the frame, but I guess that would not be "legal", probably just as strong, just not legal.

Charles
 
WOW.....i think that sums it up for me......:D
 
Another great project to follow on the CAC. Thanks for sharing your pictures.

Tom
 

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