Hooker Headers Ceramic coated

[AV8RSVT #1]

I am going to try to fit into my schedule this weekend the installation of my headers. My car is A 4-speed (manual) 350ci. Will I need to remove the clutch Z-Bar? I am staying with the regular starter that is in the car (dont replace it if its not broke). I am going to put the rear tires on ramps and the front end on jack stands which will make the front end sit a little higher than the rear end. Any tricks, tips anything that will help expedite this job would be greatly appreciated. Thank You in advance!!!

Gary
"72" Vette

 

[1BAD80]

IM not sure on the the clutch Z-Bar. I put in a set of Hooker Super Compition without any problem. Take the spark plugs and oil dipstick tube out, and unhook the battery. The headers should rotate rite into place in a froward angle. Use some good metalic gaskets, the white ones are junk. I also recommend stainless steel 12 point head bolts, their easier to use and torque. My exhaust system is welded together as one unit and I can remove it without any problem by myself, headers to mufflers all 3" pipe.
Put in the 2 end bolts loose and the gaskets will slide in place, then put the rest of the bolts in. You may have to put them in evenly, some mite be tight to the pipe if not.

 

[69MyWay]

With a big block, you have to really pound on the driver header to clear the steering gear box, and you will have issues with the stock starter being really close to the header on the passenger side.

Yes, you have to pull the Z bar, dipstick, and maybe even the alternator for extra wiggle room for the front driver bolt.

Wrap the pipe in a towel, and pound it easy when you go to re-shape it to clear the steering box.

Good luck.

 

[AV8RSVT #1]

Should I buy short Hearder spark plugs? What angle spark plug wire boot is the norm for A small block (350) with the hooker comp headers.

 

[AV8RSVT #1]

Sorry so many random stupid questions. How does the Z-BAR come out. I see A nut on the outboard end and it appears to go into A bushing on the inboard end (eng side) with A gease zerk in the middle. I hope to start on them tomorrow. I hope fitment is good on these they look cool on the bench I hope they look equally if not cooler in the car.

Gary
"72" VETTE
350ci 4 speed

 

[AV8RSVT #1]

Another one SORRY! To jack the front end Do I use the cross member under the eng and place the jack stands on the frame members forward of the front tires? This looks like the best placement to have the stands out of the way. The rear I am going to place the floor jack under the frame forward of the rear tires and place the rear on ramps? (only one floor jack). You would think I would ask all my questions on one thread for that again I am sorry!!! ;help :crazy

Gary
"72" VETTE
350ci 4 speed

 

[69MyWay]

Drive the car onto some 2x4 blocks so that the front is just high enough to roll your jack under the front x member.

Put a block of wood between the jack and X member, and raise the front. Put a pair of high quality jack stands on the front frame on the swaybar mount. This will put them well out of your way, and get the car way up in the air.

Now, you can go in from the driver door back to the x member right in front of the diff. catch it with the jack there and raise it up. Put jack stands on the frame rails in front of the rear tires.

Slide a pair of old wheels/tires under the car so that if it falls, it won't go all the way to the ground.

On the Z bar, there is a nut requiring a 9/16" wrench on the outboard side of the Z bar where it bolts to the frame. After you locate that, take note of how the Z bar hooks to the rods with pins and clips. Pull the clips and pins at the clutch rod coming out of the firewall, and coming off the trans. Now, remove the 9/16" nut and pull the nut and the clip behind it off. You can wiggle the Z rod now and it will come up off the frame, and pull away from the ball stud on the engine.

Pull the dipstick out and dipstick tube.

Remove the spark plugs. (your stock ones are fine, no need to change these to anything different. You may need to get different plug wires with straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree boot combos to keep them off the header tube.

Remove the old exhaust.

Fit the new exhaust in and get ready to swear a whole bunch, and throw things around.

After a few hours, of beating, banging, fitting, etc, you will get them in.

I had to drill out the main bolt holes larger just a tad.

Just remember, the end result will be awesome!

 

[MaineShark]

I've seen ceramic plug boots in several places, recently. Seems like a good idea when dealing with headers, to prevent melting. I'm pretty sure I'd get some, if/when I get headers.

Joe

 

[AV8RSVT #1]

I am finished and of course I started it. :cool That was way to easy It sounded so awesome Now I feel like going to :bar and having A Thanks for everybody's help you all are awesome to :BOW THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!