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How to put in Piston/ Connection Rods

  • Thread starter Thread starter andrewmckernon
  • Start date Start date
A

andrewmckernon

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Hey guys, i'm having some getting this right without scaring myself stupid that i'm going to ruin the engine i'm rebuilding.

First off, how much clearance do i need in between the connection rods when they're bolted to the crank, and secondly how much space between the connection rod and the crank itself. It seems to me when i get them in there's NO space at all, but i put the same rods in that I took out....!

Do i use several feeler gauges to do this?

Please help.
 
Andrew,

Get yourself one of the rebuilding books for $10 - 15. Cheap insurance.

There is a specific gap that is supposed to be between the bearing and journal. The auto parts stores have these compression type gauges. They resemble a string. You put it between the bearing and journal, torque the thing down and then remove it. You compare the markings on the gauge to an index and based on the comparison you know what your spacing is.

Learned that helping one of the other CAC members put their engine together.

We didn't do anything special for between the connecting rods. The book will let you know what to do here.
 
The locking slots (for the rod bearings) inside the big end of the connecting rod should both be on the same side of the rod and they should be installed toward the block side (side closest to the block casting) of the crank for the piston they are attached to. It can get backwars easily if you have four valve reliefs. If the rods are not turned the proper direction, they will not want to let the crank rotate and will bind up.
 
What about the locking side?

Which side do the bearing locks face? The side that the block casting mark is on?

Andrew
 
Oh wait!

nevermind, it's impossible to put the bearing's in wrong. But is that all the information on how to get the pistons in?

thanks guys, that was so fast!


andrew
 
bobchad said:
Get yourself one of the rebuilding books for $10 - 15. Cheap insurance.

...compression type gauges. They resemble a string.

Learned that helping one of the other CAC members put their engine together.
Hi Bob :w

That was us that Bob assisted this summer. I must agree that a good rebuilding book will give you all the information you need, including bolt size/strengths and torque measurements. The compression guage Bob mentioned is called PlastiGuage and it comes in several different colors to measure different gaps.

I would like to add that you need to get some clear tubing cut long enough to cover and stay on the threads of the rod ends. You do not want to score the cylinder wall or bump those threads on the crank.

Don't sweat it, you'll do fine. :)
One thing I'd like to add about the book we used, was at the back it had pages you could photocopy and use for labeling parts and bolts, a spreadsheet of items removed and checked with places for notes and a checklist for reassembly. This would save you wracking your brain trying to remember if you'd already done a step and were okay to move on.
Heidi
 
go to the parts store and ask for PLASTI-GAUGE. that will help setting the crank and main bearing clearances.

Robin
 

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