How to set camber, Myers C1 front suspension

[firstgear]

We worked on Saturday setting the wheel base length on both sides as well as the angles for the driveshaft.

First the driveshaft, when we first measured the end of the transmission and then the pinion gear drive yoke we were off about 3 degrees or so from one another. Because we don't want drive shaft wind up, caused by non-equal angles at both end we needed to get them as close to dead nuts as we could.

After we adjusted the 4 bar links a couple of times turning the end link a total of 3.5 turns on both sides, this is what we were rewarded with in angle measurement.

Below is the end of the transmission side

Below is the pinion gear drive yoke side

Next we had to check/set the distance on both sides to be equal from the front suspension to the rear suspension. We measured from the front lower ball joint bolt front side to a cast spot on each of the rear disc brake back plates. We were off on one side by about 3/16-1/4" to the other side. so we extended out one side to bring them both into the same dead nuts measurement.

Below is where we measured at the ball joint on both sides.

Drivers side rear disc brake back plate

Passenger side rear disc brake back plate

Next we needed to set the camber, but that we were not sure how to do. So if anyone has some good instructions or procedures to do that with this kind of set up below, that would be really helpful.

Camber setting procedures?

thanks, Herb

 

[Tom Bryant]

Camber is set by unbolting the upper conrtol arm from the frame and either screwing the rod ends out or in to adjust the verticle angle of the hub face. Turn both ends the same direction and same number of turns. If you don't you will be altering the caster too.

Screwing both rod ends in or out together the same amount alters the verticle alignment of the rotor face, altering the camber.

Turning just one rod end in or out moves the upper ball joint fore or aft altering the caster setting.

Note: Camber will change as weight is added so your initial setting without the engine and other front end components and body parts will change considerably once these things are installed. Actually I wouldn't even mess with it until the car is assembled and it is setting with the weight on the suspension. It would be fairly easy to do at home with a lift then you could jack it up to get the weight off of the contol arm, unbolt and adjust it and let the jack back down. Then roll the car back and forth to settle the suspension before measuring again. If you can borrow some of those alignment pads that the shops park the front wheels on when on an alignment rack they will self settle. Just use a straight edge with the angle finder across the wheel face vertically to check the degrees.

Tom

 

[John Mcgraw]

Herb,
Tom is right on the money. No sense even messing with the caster and camber settings until the car is completed and ready to run. The camber will change substantially as the suspension loads, and as you adjust the camber, you will change the caster as well. Camber is changed by moving both rod ends in and out the same ammount, and caster is changed by moving them differentially.

Regards, John Mc Graw

 

[firstgear]

okie dokie....but I will probably come back later and ask some questions....thanks....Herb

 

[JohnZ]

Herb, having zero angle between the prop shaft and the trans output shaft and the prop shaft and the pinion flange at ride height isn't a great idea - a straight line through all three components won't allow any movement of the trunnions and needles in the U-joints and they'll brinell the trunnions and caps. :eyerole

 

[firstgear]

Herb, having zero angle between the prop shaft and the trans output shaft and the prop shaft and the pinion flange at ride height isn't a great idea - a straight line through all three components won't allow any movement of the trunnions and needles in the U-joints and they'll brinell the trunnions and caps. :eyerole

I don't have a "zero" angle between all three components. The tranny and rear end have the normal amount of offset from each other, but the two planes are parallel. Does that make sense? At any rate the output shaft from the tranny is not in line with the driveshaft. The driveshaft has an angle to it, but the far ends are parallel to each other and there is no angle between the ends.

okie dokie?

 

[Tom Bryant]

Herb,

You may have addressed this before and I'm just not seeing it but do you know what the weight difference is between the new front suspension and the old one? Also I see that they offer a few brake options. Which one did you go with? I'm anxious to hear how well it steers with the new setup.

Tom

 

[firstgear]

Herb,

You may have addressed this before and I'm just not seeing it but do you know what the weight difference is between the new front suspension and the old one? Also I see that they offer a few brake options. Which one did you go with? I'm anxious to hear how well it steers with the new setup.

Tom

Tom, I am not sure what the difference in weight is between old and new. But both if dropped will bust your toes something fierce! I didn't assemble it altogether with all the pieces. Since I had clear view of everything, I ended up just attaching only the cross member piece that bolts on with the tabs that get welded.

I just figured it would be easier to mount everything to the frame. One of the other people that I had talked to about the Myers front end said they had wished they had done it that way as well as trying to move it is awkward just like the stock front end.

I also asked other people about the brake upgrade. Their comments to me was that the stock brakes that came with it were more than enough (in my case 79-81 F body brakes, the front rotors have the larger wheel bearings than the earlier ones). So if they stop an F body, then they should have no problem what so ever stopping a C1.

I found on EBay a set of drilled and slotted rotors that I am putting on the front and a set of drilled Explorer rotors from Currie for the rear. When I getting it running (about a year away I think) I will have to come out your way and you can see for yourself how it drives and rides and all that stuff.....


Herb

 

[Tom Bryant]

Exactly what I was thinking. A F body weighs a lot more than a solid axle so the brakes should be plenty good. It isn't really that far over to Fremont. I may have to come over and check out your project one of these days.

Tom

 

[firstgear]

It isn't really that far over to Fremont. I may have to come over and check out your project one of these days.

Tom

old address, we live in Norwalk now.....just a bit further....I would really like it if you came over, another set of eyes looking at what I am doing might pick up something else.....

Herb

 

[JohnZ]

I don't have a "zero" angle between all three components. The tranny and rear end have the normal amount of offset from each other, but the two planes are parallel. Does that make sense? At any rate the output shaft from the tranny is not in line with the driveshaft. The driveshaft has an angle to it, but the far ends are parallel to each other and there is no angle between the ends. okie dokie?

Yup! My old eyes thought the inclinometer in the first group of photos was showing zero angle at both joints - the last photo shows clearly that's not the case.

 

[firstgear]

Yup! My old eyes thought the inclinometer in the first group of photos was showing zero angle at both joints - the last photo shows clearly that's not the case.

John, thanks for commenting. I need all the eyes I can checking what I am doing....

thanks, Herb