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In a clutch situation....

Topless

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
444
Location
San Diego, CA
Corvette
1992 Convt w/hard top; 2004 Z06 Z16; 1962 327/300
It is an engaging topic... haha

Ok, so the symptoms are: (ah yes, 1992)
When shifting, clutch to the floor, it is occasionally hard to get in to first (while stopped), shifting into 2nd and third. This started a while ago by blocking 3rd. If I shift quickly, there is no problem, but if I casually driving, sometimes it will not shift into 3rd, but if I just hold some pressure on the stick, it will eventually drop in.

There is no slipping though. I have been told that the clutch is almost warn out, but I am not sure if that psychic friends or what. I have 55k mi, and it probably has the original clutch (I purchased it with 29k mi).

umm, if you need more input, let me know, and i will try and give a better description.

So....is it clutch, t.o. bearing.....opinions please??? replacement parts?? preferences?

thanks.
MIke
 
Mike, I doubt that at 55k your clutch would be going, but I guess it depends on how it was driven for those 55k miles.

The clutch is a hydraulically activated unit that requires no adjustment (it's self-adjusting). You might want to check your fluid level. Don't worry about changing it now, it's an involved task.

The resistance you feel is not out-of-the-ordinary for any manual transmission after a while, and it's probably a little stiffer when it's cold too I'll bet. It's just normal wear on the syncronizers; you could try a synthetic gear lube (Redline makes some.) and that may ease the shifting, but I don't think it's necessary.

Keep us informed.

_ken
 
Mike,

Chances are you have a minor problem in the hydraulics.


Try this. The next time it is acting up pretty regular everytime you take it down to first, doulbe/tripple pump the clutch pedal before putting it into gear. See if this helps.

The clutch master cylinder can go bad just like a brake master cylinder and let some air in, or it may just be really low on fluid.

Reverse is usually the biggest problem to get into when the hydraulics are not working right.

A bad clutch can act the same, but I doubt it since your miles are pretty low. Under normal driving you should be upwards of 75K before needing a replacement.
 
How Far?

When you push the clutch in, put the car in gear and let the pedal up ( slowly ) where does it start to grab?

Most of the time the slave cylinder starts to go and the clutch starts grabbing VERY close to the floor... this is BAD and makes for the kind of problems you are reffering to.



Mike

HAPPY HOLIDAYS
 
I will check on the grab on the way to work today.

Thanks. I will post an update tonight.

mIke
 
vigman: the clutch starts to grab about a quarter the way up off the floor, maybe a little closer. from the top, it will disengage about 1/4-1/3 the way down.

Ken: actually, it tends to do it more when it is warm. Odd, I know. It is sporatic though.

What is the interval for changing the trans oil?

thanks.
MIke
 
Topless said:
Ken: actually, it tends to do it more when it is warm. Odd, I know.

Chris and Mike nailed it then, the correct answer will be your hydraulic units, one or the other is heading south. Replace both the slave and the master at the same time, it'll save ya work in the future. ;)

_ken
 
To Low!

About 1/2 way is where I set em up

I would do the slave first ( More heat, and fluid gets more junk down there.... gravity & all)

Mike
 
Ok, so is this a do it yourself type of thing, or am I into the shop? What neighborhood ($$) should I be expecting?

Thanks.
 
:L Mike and Chris would do it themselves, I'd take mine to the shop. ;)

_ken
 
Im guessing here,

I would think under 500.00 for both Master & slave.

Just a hunch though

Mike
 
Mike is closer to the actual figure Keith, my receipts are in the garage or else I'd look it up to see what I paid a few years ago. ;)

_ken :w
 
It would cost my $1,500, because I would not read the instructions and mess up the first set, then install the second set wrong trying to read the spanish only instructions, then finally pay a pro to do it right. :bash

No actually, with a good set of ramps or jack stands to get it up in the air, some basic metric wrenches, and a helper to help get any remaining air out of the system and you should be able to do it in an afternoon for the cost of parts, fluid, and a cold drink for your helper.
 
You guys are great. :upthumbs

Time to do a little shopping. I wonder if I can get this covered on my extended warranty? Now that may be a lot to hope for..



then install the second set wrong trying to read the spanish only instructions,

I am in luck, I can actually read spanish. :L


and a cold drink for your helper.

Oh, cheap. My helper does not drinking anything harder than Coke.

I will keep you posted on my progress.

MIke
 
Mid America Slave

$99.95

Catalog F-11-L
Page 103
 

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