info on removing broken bolts

[grumpyvette]

http://www.freealloil.com/freealloil/freeall.html
http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm
if you can drill thru the center of the broken bolt with a bit aproximately 2/3 the dia of the broken bolt, untill the bit goes ALL the way thru then soak the $%^ out of it with FREEALL penetrating oil,(this stuffs amazing) this will allow the oil to soak in from both ends of the broken threaded section, let it soak at least 30 minute while you re-apply more spray oil every few minutes, then insert the easy out and gently twist the broken bolt remains out of the threaded hole, BTW heating and cooling the bolt, helps. heat with a propane torch the cooling it with the spray oil helps to lossen its grip on the threads if its really stuck :grin:

 

[grumpyvette]

Okay how about tricks for keeping them from turning into the rusted ready to snap pieces of junk, in the first place?"
use grade 8 stainless and a coat of ANTISEIZE paste on the threads durringg assembly tends to prevent the problem
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=22449

 

[Eden72Vet]

use grade 8 stainless and a coat of ANTISEIZE paste on the threads durringg assembly tends to prevent the problem

I agree with using ANTISEIZE. I use it on all the stuff I put back together. It works great.

 

[JonM]

Sounds like you speak from recent experience.

 

[grumpyvette]

"Sounds like you speak from recent experience"

lets just say Ive worked on hundreds of corvettes and ocasionally you find broken studs on exhaust manifolds or similar problems, the post was in responce to a question.......on a differant site, but I figure you guys can use the info also!. question,?(now what! the stud broke off flush with the block)

 

[grumpyvette]

THE TRICK with sucessfully useing easy outs correctly is that you need to center the drilled hole (it should be about 2/3-3/4 of the bolt dia.)and drill it ALL the way thru the remaining bolt both centered and CONCENTRIC with the bolt centerline and TO SOAK the bolt threads LIBERALLY over 30 minutes with a GOOD PENETRATING OIL that can reach both ends of the bolt (I strongly advise http://www.freealloil.com/freealloil/freeall.html )
most failures are due to rushing the job,
(not soaking a MINIMUM of 30 minutes)
(not useing a good corrosion removing penetrating oil)
(appling too much torque to the easyout, if it won,t back out easily in most cases you did not use enougth oil or waited long enought)
(or and this is most of the time, not drilling the hole both concentric and all the way thru the bolt)


"How would YOU go about trying to remove a cast iron exhaust manifold that has been in place for??? 20 years?"

well Id sure soak it down liberally and often with a good penetrating oil, and Id use a small hammer to tap hard on each bolt head a good deal while I was appling that oil to allow the vibration to work the oil flow into more places,Id also get some rounded bolt head removal sockets

http://www.freealloil.com/freealloil/freeall.html

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952162000&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies

and an air ratchet set on low torque would help

 

[G Winter]

Another little trick.. use left had bits[reverse] when drilling out broken bolts, often the bolt will catch and turn out. Also if you make sure you centerpunch the bolt in perfect center and use a bit that is the size of the original hole before threading all you have to do is chase it with a tap.

Glenn