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keep blowing fuse 1989 corvette

mlm0

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
84
Location
Georgetown, Texas, United Stat
Corvette
1989
I keep blowing the fuse as soon as I replace it at fuse block for the fuse CTSY/CLK 15 AMP. I have been using the FSM as much as I can understand it. On page 8A-14-3 it shows all the things wired to work off of that fuse. I have removed the electronic AC control unit, the bose radio unit from the wiring as well as the following: right and left door lights, left and right cargo lights, cig. liter . The fuse stills blows as soon as I plug it in. I know there must me a better way to find where the short is, I just don't know how to do it. It looks like s240 is some kind of connector I need to find so I can disconnect each of the items on that circuit one at a time until the fuse no longer blows. I don't know where s240 is located even if I am right. I also haven't looked at the spare tire light yet. Not sure how to find it. I hope some one can give me some help, cause I can't really use my beloved car until I fix it. thanks Mike
 
I keep blowing the fuse as soon as I replace it at fuse block for the fuse CTSY/CLK 15 AMP. I have been using the FSM as much as I can understand it. On page 8A-14-3 it shows all the things wired to work off of that fuse. I have removed the electronic AC control unit, the bose radio unit from the wiring as well as the following: right and left door lights, left and right cargo lights, cig. liter . The fuse stills blows as soon as I plug it in. I know there must me a better way to find where the short is, I just don't know how to do it. It looks like s240 is some kind of connector I need to find so I can disconnect each of the items on that circuit one at a time until the fuse no longer blows. I don't know where s240 is located even if I am right. I also haven't looked at the spare tire light yet. Not sure how to find it. I hope some one can give me some help, cause I can't really use my beloved car until I fix it. thanks Mike


The page you're looking at is 8A-11-3

S240 is not a connector it's a splice and it's part of the I/P harness. It's behind the right side of the I/P. There's an illustration of its location on 8A-200-10A

It may be less costly to use a DMM to find the short rather than a box of fuses. Measure the resistance between the load side of the fuse and ground. It should read very low or zero until you disconnect the component which is shorted to ground.
 
one great video

this is the best u-tube video I have ever watched on finding a short in vehicle wiring. I also bought the tools he used for a total of 30.00 Can't wait to get them to run down my short Go to U-tube and search for (realfixesrealfast)
 
If the fuse blows right away, you're one step ahead of electronics problems diagnostics. That means it's not an INTERMITTENT problem, and you can catch it in the act.

Electricity flow is just like water in a hose (tastes a little different, especially if you use an organic analog multimeter (pic below), instead of a digital multimeter - louder scream = higher voltage) :

images


You have a hose with a sprayer on the end.
Screw it on the spigot, you still don't have flow yet, till you turn on the valve / switch.
Still it's not 'flowing'; only the hose is energized.
Now put an imaginary water wheel in the middle of the hose.
It doesn't turn until the 'ground' is made (squeeze the handle on the sprayer nozzle).
Let only a little water out (bad ground), and the wheel turns slowly (or the light bulb is dimly lit).
Too much flow (your problem) makes the wheel spin FASTER than it's supposed to - or, if it's a light bulb (nothing more than a glorified fuse), guess what happens? POP goes the fuse.

What makes too much flow? How 'bout a cut in the hose downstream of the wheel, along with the sprayer on? Yup. This would be like the insulation stripped, and making contact with the frame.

Do this:
At the fuseholder, determine the polarity. You will have to physically follow the (-) side, to the device (s).

Or, determine from FSM, where the (-) goes (you referred to a splice, which means that it's a compound circuit, with several sprayers on the ends of the [divided] hose). Work backwards from each one, to the splice, then to the (-) of the fuseholder. Somewhere, you're gonna' find a cut in the hose.

Sounds like a pain. It is. But there's no better way to get to know YOUR car. THink of it as a sight-seeing trip.

And there's other analogies, like hose / pipe size, depending on how much current (water wheel size) is needed to turn the wheel / fan, etc., etc., ...

A few guys here on the boards KNOW there cars, from doin' this kind of stuff. Knowledge beats $$ ALL DAY LONG.

Teacher OUT ;)

ed.:
The other guy said it "may be less costly to use a DMM ... ". Trust me - ain't no 'maybe' about it; it IS-a-be ;)
 
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