L81 Federal Auto Smog label

[GerryLP]

Hey gang!

I finally got to the point to get the engine started!

The engine runs better (I thought I would have a lot more problems) that I expected. Oil pressure, and engine temperature looked good, and no major leaks were found. That oil priming tool surely was helpful. I saw the oil pressure shoot-up as if it had run before, and I got about 43 PSI, and then [the engine oil] warmed up to a solid 38 PSI.

Once I went through the timing check and all, I realized that I have an air leak somewhere. I have been disconnecting smog system one at a time, but now I wonder if my smog hoses are correctly connected. I used the Dr. Rebuild kit, but perhaps their diagram is not correct.

I also lack the correct Federal-Automatic smog label for my car. I have a California smog label (AUH) that I ordered by mistake a few years ago, and I don't have the correct configuration for the smog hoses.

So, can anyone tell me what are the adjustment parameters (idle speed, fast idle speed, solenoid speed, and the like) for the AUD label? And does anyone know if the routing is the same as for the California (AUH) models?

GerryLP:cool

 

[Yoda]

Gerry

Check page 6E-3 in your GM Shop Manual

I'll check RARE and see what it has on the inside hood

Bud

 

[GerryLP]

Thanks, Bud. Will do.

By the way, I feel that it is an air leak, for it will run the speed required with the 4-pin connector disconnected. But when I reconnect it, it will jump to about 1,400 rpm. Also, the idle speed screw is not even touching the throttle lever.

It sounds d.a.m.n. good, though.

GerryLP:cool

 

[Peer81]

Gerry, sound great!

The service manual shows no diference in the smog hoses between the different labels. Only idle speed, soleniod etc differ. I'll look it up tonight when i'm in the neighbourhood of the manual

Groeten Peter.

 

[LannyL81]

Thanks, Bud. Will do.

By the way, I feel that it is an air leak, for it will run the speed required with the 4-pin connector disconnected. But when I reconnect it, it will jump to about 1,400 rpm. Also, the idle speed screw is not even touching the throttle lever.

It sounds d.a.m.n. good, though.

GerryLP:cool

Gerry,
Can you hear the mixture control solenoid clicking? Did you adjust the idle air screws using a tack connected to the green test connector and adjust the idle bleed vavle? This could be both your air leak and your high idle problem.

Later,
Lanny

 

[GerryLP]

Gerry,
Can you hear the mixture control solenoid clicking? Did you adjust the idle air screws using a tack connected to the green test connector and adjust the idle bleed vavle? This could be both your air leak and your high idle problem.

Later,
Lanny

Lanny,

I do hear what I thought was the M/C solenoid, but when I put my hand on that carb area, I don't feel anything. I have so far only adjusted the idle mixture screws to the starting point of 3 1/3 turns (and what a pain that was not having the correct tool and all the crap on the way ad ).

I do have some of my emission hoses (between the TVS, pcv, and carb) wrong. Once I get those corrected, I was planning to check the air valve setting (IAW shop manual with the use of a dwell gauge, right? :confused ).

GerryLP:cool

 

[GerryLP]

Well, it wasn't an air leak, or wrong timing, or air bleeds (I do still want to check that they're correct), or idle mixture screws.

Believe it or not, the problem was the throttle bracket ad :confused :ugh :cry

It had a slight bend that was pushing the throttle open slightly. I thank my brother in-law for discovering this. I feel like such a dumb a$$. The clues were all there (i.e. timing would jump to 46 deg, the idle screw would not touch the throttle).

Besides my ego getting hurt, all we found was that the throttle cable broke-away from the fitting that snaps into the throttle bracket. Now I am looking for a replacement.

The better news is that the engine sounds fine now, and I can't wait to get it on the road.

GerryLP:cool