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Lifting a C-4

Blu ByU

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2004
Messages
87
Location
Liberty, Missouri
Corvette
'04 CE LeMans Blue Coupe, 1978 Pace Car
I've seen a couple references on the forums about damage being done to Corvettes due to improper lifting. I've gone through my owners manual, and all I can find is about using the jack when changing a tire. But what about auto repair places? Is it OK for them to just use a standard car lift, or is there something special they need to know? I'm about to have a new exhaust system put on, and if there is something I should tell them I'd really like to know. Thanks!
 
good question

If anyone knows, I would be very interested as well. Although the work so far has been minimal by my mechanic, I am curious if he puts it on a lift if he could cause damage.
Anyone?
 
I regularly lift mine using my wrench's standard car lift with the pads properly placed under the indicated jacking points. I went to a tire place down the road for new 285's for the rear and the idiots were going to put a plank between the lift pads and lift on the flange under the doors. Would have flattened them so I would stay with the dude on the jack until you are sure he is using the indicated jacking points correctly.
 
The easiest way is to use the factory designated lifting points on the sides. Additionally, you can use the metal pinchweld sections in the front and the lower suspension mounts in the rear. Using method #2 should be used as a last resort, especially if you don't know what you're looking at. Any competent tech/mechanic should know how to properly lift a Corvette without damaging it, but some guys like to "blast 'em in and out" of the bays, so be sure you don't have one of those guys working on your Vette. For exhaust work, a drive-on lift is preferred anyway.
 
I also was wondering about jacking the car up at additional points. I use my floor jack with a flat board on the jack saddle under the lift points. How about the front under the square tube frame. It looks very strong there. Has anybody lifted the car using the front tube frame. Also after lifting, were it the best places to put jack stands?
 
I lift the front there, but be careful to spread out the load; not concentrated in the center of that, or it can deform.

I put jackstands just behind the front wheels, supporting the steel 'folds', or under the frame itself. I like extra long stands under the rear frame, back, just inside the rear bumper, depending on what I am trying to work on. My preference is to drive onto ramps, then jack the other end.
 
WhalePirot said:
I lift the front there, but be careful to spread out the load; not concentrated in the center of that, or it can deform.

I put jackstands just behind the front wheels, supporting the steel 'folds', or under the frame itself. I like extra long stands under the rear frame, back, just inside the rear bumper, depending on what I am trying to work on. My preference is to drive onto ramps, then jack the other end.

Ive been looking for the right ramps. Everything I see locally has too steep an incline. What type do you have?
 
gkurtz said:
Ive been looking for the right ramps. Everything I see locally has too steep an incline. What type do you have?
I have two sets; both too steep. I use wood planks under the leading edge of the ramp to step the car up and to flatten out the ramps. The better ramps are two piece, with detachable ramps.
 
For the front end only I like to use a bottle jack under one of the skid rails... ( for lack of a better term ) I only take it up a couple inches... 1. Because I don't want it to slip out... 2. I only need enough room for my floor jack... ( I also use short 4" ramps if I am coming in with a warm motor and will be working on it after it cools down... Besides, I don't like to start a cold engine to do an oil change when all I will be doing is putting cold oil in the top of the motor by driving it onto my pre ramps ) Just enough to get my floor jack under there with a 2 x 4 about a foot long on top of the lifting cradle... ( The air dam is the main source of interference for a floor jack ) Once the floor jack is in place I can lift the car easily and not worry about deforming the center frame area... Once I have the desired height I use 2 jack stands and place them behind the front wheels about 10" in from the outer edge of the frame... Their is a very wide section there where the frame angles in towards the motor... I use the rearward side of the frame... I use another piece of 2x4 about 4 inches long and place it up against the flange that splits the frame... Under that I adjust the jack stand to be as close as possible... Once I set the car on the jack stands and hear the wood crunch a little I know its not going anywhere... I then give the car a couple of small nudges to make sure everything is settled... This gives the pan a good tilt to make the oil flow out to the rear... If I am doing my LT5 then I adjust the jacks to tilt the pan towards the drain plug on the side of the pan...

If I am jacking the whole car up high I do 1 side at a time... Sometimes I go up in 2 stages if the car needs to be up high and set on big jack stands for a trans or major detailng... Simply use one jack in the middle of the frame and postion the rear jackstand just in front of the rear wheels where the pinched frame makes a triangled area... again... I use 2x4 to distribute out the load and make the connection between the jack and the frame "grippy"... I then use the same area as mentioned before to support the front end... I check the car for stability by nudging it before going underneath it...
Geez... I didn't think this would take so long to explain ! :D
Be safe
 
If you are lifting the rear by the lift points where do you put the stands, the jack is in the way!

Post pics of location.

Thanks
Mart
 
Additionally, you can use the metal pinchweld sections in the front and the lower suspension mounts in the rear.
When I raise my 85 on the hoist, that's where I place the rubber pads from the hoist arms. Haven't bent anything yet!!

Ron ... :w
 
ZRXMAX said:
For the front end only I like to use a bottle jack under one of the skid rails... ( for lack of a better term ) I only take it up a couple inches... 1. Because I don't want it to slip out... 2. I only need enough room for my floor jack... ( I also use short 4" ramps if I am coming in with a warm motor and will be working on it after it cools down... Besides, I don't like to start a cold engine to do an oil change when all I will be doing is putting cold oil in the top of the motor by driving it onto my pre ramps ) Just enough to get my floor jack under there with a 2 x 4 about a foot long on top of the lifting cradle... ( The air dam is the main source of interference for a floor jack ) Once the floor jack is in place I can lift the car easily and not worry about deforming the center frame area... Once I have the desired height I use 2 jack stands and place them behind the front wheels about 10" in from the outer edge of the frame... Their is a very wide section there where the frame angles in towards the motor... I use the rearward side of the frame... I use another piece of 2x4 about 4 inches long and place it up against the flange that splits the frame... Under that I adjust the jack stand to be as close as possible... Once I set the car on the jack stands and hear the wood crunch a little I know its not going anywhere... I then give the car a couple of small nudges to make sure everything is settled... This gives the pan a good tilt to make the oil flow out to the rear... If I am doing my LT5 then I adjust the jacks to tilt the pan towards the drain plug on the side of the pan...

If I am jacking the whole car up high I do 1 side at a time... Sometimes I go up in 2 stages if the car needs to be up high and set on big jack stands for a trans or major detailng... Simply use one jack in the middle of the frame and postion the rear jackstand just in front of the rear wheels where the pinched frame makes a triangled area... again... I use 2x4 to distribute out the load and make the connection between the jack and the frame "grippy"... I then use the same area as mentioned before to support the front end... I check the car for stability by nudging it before going underneath it...
Geez... I didn't think this would take so long to explain ! :D
Be safe
I have a convertible which has two cross braces across the bottom of the frame. It attaches to the frame rails. That seams to be a good lift point. What do you think?
 
gkurtz said:
I have a convertible which has two cross braces across the bottom of the frame. It attaches to the frame rails. That seams to be a good lift point. What do you think?

I just lifted one at the shop the other day at the points you mentioned... It has to be strong in that area for the X brace to be bolted there... Just look it over carefully... C4s converts are pretty sturdy with the X brace...
 
Mart said:
Hey ZRXMAX do you have any pics of the jack stand locations.
Sorry... no pictures right now... will do it next time it goes up for service...
Ted
 
ZRXMAX said:
Sorry... no pictures right now... will do it next time it goes up for service...
Ted
I too would like to see the pictures. All the manuals or links I saw were so unclear. Thanks
 
Mart said:
If you are lifting the rear by the lift points where do you put the stands, the jack is in the way!

Post pics of location.

Thanks
Mart

I don't have pictures, but hopefully I can describe them. Look just in front of the rear wheel wells and just behind the fronts, where the frame turns inward. About 6-8 inches in, there are pockets in the frame that are just the right size for the top of the jack stand to rest in. These spots are pretty easy to see once the car is lifted a bit.
 
Just watch the guys with adjustable arm hosts. Make sure they don't set the lift pad under the floor pan...that causes major damage!!
 
Lifting a C4

If you have a convertable, it's important to undo the front latches on the top before lifting the car. Apparantly there is a lot of flex and not releasing those latches can cause damage. Both the local Chevy dealer and the local National Tire and Battery shop told me this.

Be careful with the X Braces under the car. You don't want to bend them. They provide rigidity to the frame - bend one and you'll have to replace it.
 

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