Looked at a Shark today...

[Edmond]

and it's in very bad shape. I'm thinking about buying it and restoring it; the owner is asking $1500 right now but I'm positive that he'd take much less for it.

It's a 74 and I'm not sure if it's a BB or a SB. I'll have to find out for sure.

It will need a frame off restoration. The paint is as gone as the wind but the fiberglass doesn't appear to be damaged. Glass isn't cracked or broken.

The whole interior will need to be done: seats, dash, et all...

The car hasn't run since the early-mid 80's. All 4 tires and possibly rims would need to be replaced. If I bought it, I would have to have it towed on a flatbed back to my garage.

I'm assuming that there isn't any frame rust but I can't be sure until I get to fully check it out.

If I could get this Shark for $1000-1200, would it be worth restoring it? I'm talking about a full restoration. I wouldn't restore it to stock, I would make it a real monster.

How much would I be looking to spend? I'm not concerned about my time because I've got plenty of it!

 

[Willis76]

I guess I would ask myself how soon do I want to be able to drive this car? If fairly soon, (less than a year) then what will it cost me to get it to that point?

I think there are too many nice ones out there (for not a lot of money) that you can drive and modify as you want to and at least have something that could be sold if need be.

It doesn't seem to be impossible to find a decent looking and driving 74 - 79 vette out there for $6,500 +- and many for less.

again - just my opinion

good luck - they are fun cars!

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Paint and interior are too of the most expensive items in the Vette. Minimum of $6,000 and possibly as high as $10,000 just for those two items.

 

[red70vette]

If it hasn't run in 20 years you will probably have issues with frame rust. This is a rust belt car and if it sat for 20 years the frame could be toast in which case run don't walk away. Check the frame first.

If you are going to do most of the work yourself and you find that enjoyable, buy it and have a ball. You will have enough projects here to keep you busy for several winters.

If you are not handy and plan on shipping these projects out to professional restorers forget it. You wil be spending 20-25K to get a car worth 15K. Just go out and buy one that has been completely restored for about $15K and drive it like you stole it. There are enough restored "investment" cars that guys are only too glad to get out from under.

Too many people spend a ton on restoring a car that is worth far less than the cost to restore. Unfortunately they don't realize it until they are done with the restoration or they get caught in the middle and have to finish it to recover anything.

It all depends on what you want the car for. Show or go.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

It might be a good buy as a parts car if you go looking for another one of that vintage.

 

[Tom73]

I have always belived in the saying, buy as good a car as you can afford. A bargin basement car will cost you several times its value before you are done.

Best thing to do is find a fully restored car that someone has put $30,000 into and then buy it for its market value of $15,000.

tom...

 

[Copdogcorvettes]

If you can do all the work yourself and have the time, money desire to spend a few years custom biulding a Corvette; Then it may be worth going for it. Myself it is maybe worth buying as a parts car only. Then find a nice damaged body car and biuld from that or just sell the parts to help get more money for a better Vette to start with. The frame is a big deal and can cost a lot to replace.

So think about it a lot!!!

Gary

 

[BruceBed]

I agree with red70vette. If your doing this for some personal satisfaction then go for it. There are many cars of this vintage that can be bought as a turn key car for a lot less money then you will expend for this project.

 

[Stallion]

If you got the money and time, you should hot rod it. Make it a rubber burnin', ricer killin', fast machine.

 

[Edmond]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. It's not a car that I would build back up from the dead and sell to make a few bucks. It would be a personal project that I wouldn't mind if it lasted a few winters. I don't need it to drive immediately because I have the 88' to drive everyday.

The only thing that I wouldn't be able to do myself is the paint job.

As for the frame rust, I'm going to have to check on that and see if there is or there isn't. It's been in the garage for that many years so I'm assuming that it's seen minimal exposure to our horrendous winters with salt filled roads.

 

[Edmond]

Sherry,

I can't answer your questions on the seals and all but I'm assuming that they'd have to be replaced anyway.

The car hasn't been started for at least 15 years.

I guess the first issue that I'll have to find out about is if there is any frame rust.

If you think this is a shame; you should see the 60 Vette' sitting next to it in even worse shape!

 

[69MyWay]

Edmond,

74 is an EXCELLENT year to own. It is the last year for the big block, and the last you that you will find next to no emissions equipment. If it is an early 74, there will be no cats to deal with, etc.

The 74 is also a one of a kind body style. The front and rear bumper are unique to that car. It is the first all rubber, and in my opinion the BEST looking one. The 74 does not have the silly little bump outs on the bumpers front and rear as you find on the 75 and up models.

"IF" the frame is not rusted beyond repair...you really can't go wrong. You could gut the car, sell the parts, learn a bunch about SHARKS in the process and still come out way ahead.

However...if you finish the car...there is no telling how far you can take it.

Yes...it will cost a small fortune to bring it back...but, you can't take it with you anyway!

My first real Vette was a 74. I would LOVE to have it back. The last of the real power houses until the C4 hit the scene.

Just download this quick vid and see how simple it really is: Right click and "save target as"

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/files/morph2.mpeg

 

[Edmond]

Chris,

The thing is, I can't confirm if it is a BB or a SB right now. I can't confirm if there is frame rust or not. I think the real issue holding me back is whether there is frame rust or not. Whether it's a BB or a SB doesn't really matter that much to me.

My father even said that since the car will be 30 years old, the emissions won't apply and I could get antique plates. This is very tempting because he also knows a guy who paints cars. This guy painted my neighbors 69 Camaro and his 79 Corvette. Excellent jobs if you ask me.

I was thinking about this:

I bought an 83 Camaro Z28 a couple of months ago for $500. The car just needs a nice tune up and a little tuning. The faster I can sell the Z28 and make some money off it; I could get the Shark. That is assuming that there is no frame rust.

 

[cwerve74]

If it is a BB it will have one of these on the hood.

The 5th digit of the vin number will be a Z if it is a BB.

My short experience has been that you can replace lots of parts and make most things work. Frame rust is not on this list. You will hate yourself in the morning if to get into one of those. Start by looking at the frame where it attached the trailing arm on the rear wheels. Look deep into the square opening and around the kick-up of the frame. Don't use rose colored glasses. Be honest with yourself. A low price should not overpower common sense. Good luck.

 

[cwerve74]

OK I don't know how to imbed an image. lets thry this.

 

[74bigblock]

cwerve74

Nice car!