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Looking to Buy 1998-2000 C5 Need Help..

rollsman4

Active member
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
32
Location
NJ
Corvette
1981 RED Coupe
I currently own a 1981 vette and would like to sell it and go to a C5. Can you recommend the best year to buy between 1998-2000? I was thinking of trading my 81 for a C5 and pay the difference or sell it on my own. I live in New Jersey and want to buy a C5 in the nearby area. I am looking to spend no more than 23,000 for one. I was informed that the C5's will drop in price when the C6 comes out. So, I might wait for that to happen. I heard from C5 owners that the rear end leaks and will leak again after its fixed, there is no permanent fix.
Can you add some light to the subject. I appreciate your comments, Thanks rollsman
 
You can find a 97-99 C5 coupe in that price range. I would'nt worry about the rear end leaking, I know many C5 owners and have owned two myself, never noticed or heard of a problem that could'nt be fixed. It's alot of car for the buck. Do yourself a favor and sell the shark outright, that equals real money in your pocket. Never trade in a car. Get yourself the current NADA guide and get the book "What car dealers don't want you to know" Armed with those two books you're golden. If you can buy the car between the avg. retail and the avg. trade in value you are buying it right.
 
Rollsman,

I just purchased my 98 coupe for 21K, had 36k miles, and the 6m trans. Not a ton of options init, but the ride is all C5! I've seen some good deals in Jersey on C5's before I bought mine.

Good Luck, Happy Hunting :w
 
About 3 years ago I sold a 26K mile 1999 C5 automatic 3.15 rear, z51 for 26 grand.(as a trade in)


I'd say 23 grand today would easily buy you a 1999 C5 coupe. I like the 1999 year based off of my experience.

The only I would look for is a past history of a leaking battery. Otherwise really great car and even then the leaking battery was just a 3 hour fix.

Decide on which suspension you want...Z51 or base...I'd probably pass on the f45 just on the cost of changing the shocks...(2 grand?)

Automatics are nice cruisers...and the six speeds manuals are fun to drive too.

If you want Hud..? Its a little harder to find....and if you want sports seats...same story..

Decide on your color....and other options and we'll keep an eye out for you.

Great car but figure to sell the 81 out right...Rare that you will find a decent trade in...

JMO
 
rollsman4

I bought a 99 FRC w/40k miles for that amount. I sold my 81 via the internet vette sale sites back in August for $12k. I would not expect near that in a trade situation, but what the hey, you never know. Shop around for a C5, the dealer may not be the best option. I found mine on the internet and drove to Detroit to get it, no regrets at all.
 
The only I would look for is a past history of a leaking battery. Otherwise really great car and even then the leaking battery was just a 3 hour fix.

I would EMPHASIZE checking for signs of a leaking battery - my '98 is in the shop right now with hidden damage issues.

A little background: My baby stalled at a red light last week, didn't die completely but would not accelerate at all. I coasted to the side of the road and called my mechanic, Kevin to report the "Reduced Engine Power" message. After shutting down the engine and talking with Kevin, I cranked her up again and she ran fine. I went to Kevin's shop and he ran diagnostics on it, then recommended I take it to a dealer for replacement of the Tac Module. He could replace the part but did not have the Tech II necessary to reprogram the computer. Imagine my horror when the dealer informed me that there were signs of a past battery leak that has covered/damaged the PCM, Tac module and Wiring Harness with battery acid. He recommended the replacement of said parts to the tune of $3400 parts/labor/tax.

I called Kevin back and he told me to bring the car back to him. As of now he is assessing the damage and trying to come up with an alternate plan. One of my frustrations about the whole thing is I purchased an extended warranty when I bought my car in June, but I've been informed that the damage is not covered by it because it was caused by a non-covered item.

A mechanic that works with Kevin told me that there has been a past issue with AC Delco batteries at the positive post. I can't confirm that but add it here as an FYI.

So I recommend close scrunity of the battery and any signs of past leaks. If you suspect a past leak, be mindful of any crucial electronics nearby. And another thing, why would someone design a car with sensitive electronics located under a battery without allowing for shielding/protection/drainage in case of battery failure??? The serviceman at the dealership said there was a pool of battery acid in the fender well.

Good luck in your search for the right C5. In spite of this setback, I love mine and would still buy it again tomorrow.

XLR8 - Save The Wave!
 
I would agree with XLR8. I had acid damage on my '97 too. It was not as bad as he describes, but it did damage the vacuum line that operates the HVAC system in the dash. Bad news.
 
Wander if one of those acid nuetralizing battery mats would have with this at all? Thought about picking one of those up, anybody out there had any experience with these. I am sure if it was a lot most likely wouldn't do much good, but what do you think?

Bill
Drive the USA, and wave when you go by!
 
I would look for a 2001 at least for the extra 5 hp because it is deffinately there. there were some synco upgrades in 01 that were crucial.
 
2001 I believe GM went to a gel battery too..


The best way to tell if the car has had a battery acid leakage is to mix water and baking soda in a cup..

Remove the battery and with a dropper put the water/baking soda solution into the hole of the battery tray..

If you hear sizzle....the car had a battery acid leak and was not fixed properly.

There should be no sizzle if the battery never leaked...

A few drops will be all it takes and in fact can just be put on the battery tray itself...as the acid has to travel on the tray to get to the hole and then below.

If not caught in time...what happens is the battery acid will eat the wires...and sometimes even get into the pcm and cause intermittent electrical gremlims...

I' personally found it in time on my 1999 and had C4 C5 specialist work on my car to properly clean every wire and the pcm plugs..

He did a great job..I never had an electrical problem with the car either.

He fixed it by meticulously cleaning every wire and plug. He's the expert so I'll let him fill you in on what he did.

I replaced the battery with a red top optima from LAPD for around a hundred dollars or so...( which is a gel type so it can't leak.)

IMHO..GM wasn't so bright in packaging a battery above the pcm etc...but I guess thats where it needed to go..

Lots of C5 owners dumped the stock battery for the red top optima before the problem occured ..I remember reading these posts going? thats weird...and they were fanatics about it...

I learned the harder way why it was a good idea..

Never a problem once cleaned properly and the battery replaced..

HTH (it was kind of rare so don't worry that much)

As the originator of the thread asked for opinions and experiences...

I'd highly recommend anyone to have purchased my 1999 C5 coupe...

It was a great car and I sold it at a great price (for the buyer) at the time..

I just the itch to get a Z06 ....

The whole battery thing took about two hours to correctly repair..

I tried to give it to my wife so I could get the Z06 but she didn't want a two seater...so I sold it.

I think its important to decide what options ie. six speed or automatic and colors you like and then have a party searching...

Let us know what you're looking for and we'll keep an eye out for you.
 
Hi

We bought a 99 arctic white coupe on ebay about two months ago for $23,500. It had 30,500 miles and was in perfect condition. We bought it from the original owner (in Florida) and had it shipped to us in Penna. It came fully loaded (two tops, dual power seats, dual climate control, you name it). We've already put 4000 miles on it and love it. Hate to think about not driving it this winter. Go for it!
 
Really sharp car, nothing like seeing the "GOOD OLD USA" in a CORVETTE, uh?
Bill
 
The only thing I might add is get an GMPP extended warranty, or similar. There is at least one third party warranty that is pretty good. My GMPP paid for itself, small things that added up.

Bruce
 
Hi,

I just bought a 1998, what does an extended warrenty cost?

Thanks
Andy
 

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