Lower t-arm shock mount...

[Ala75Vette]

Any tips on removing the shock mount from a trailing arm? I'm replacing my t-arm bushings, and as if getting the t-arm bolts out isn't hard enough, getting that lower shock mount loose is proving to be a major pita.....

Frank

 

[Ludigdrums]

I hear ya Frank...I'm litterally in the "middle" of a Van Steel complete offset trailing arm assembly. What a complete PITA!!!

The lower shock mount was my first obstacle...which I sucked it up and bought new ones for $45 each...and cut through the old one with a reciprocating saw. There was no getting it out...I tried hammering, lots of lube...HEAT...nothing worked!

The one thing that does help very little, is to raise the trailing arm up with a jack to try and get the strut rod and the shock mount holes to really line up, taking the pressure off the bolt so you can get it out. You might want to disconnect the other end of the stut rod as well (which, depending on how the bolts were inserted, you might also have to drop the spring to get the bolts out). Doing this, will allow you to more easily position the strut rod to take tension off the shock mount bolt.

I've read a lot about it and spoke to a bunch of Corvette places, and they almost always have the same problem. There is a tool that is supposed to help knock it out and save the threads (www.vansteel.com)...but honestly, I don't think it'll work for 20+ years of rust seizing.

If you do get new ones, you might have to grind down a few of the knurles on the new shock mount. Mine didn't press all the way in because it was a new TA assembly and new shock mount...if you're reusing the assembly (which you probably are) then you might not have the same problem because the assembly will already be a bit worn from the old one.

It must have taken me a couple of hours to get through that trailing arm bolt! Dang thing wouldn't let go!!! Same rust seize problem. Went through countless reciprocating saw blades, and many bruises, and finally got it off. So, I have the right side done....and waiting for a nice day with LOTS of time to do the lefts side!

Also, while you're there, you might as well check for anything else that might need to be replaced bushing wise/bolt wise while you have everything apart! I got new TA bolts, Strut Rod bushings, End Link bushings, etc. I also found out that my spring was missing 1 of the 3 bolts to hold it in place :-(

Please let me know if you have any other questions as I just went through it all!!!

Sorry so lenghtly...
Good luck!!!

- Jeremy

 

[Ala75Vette]

Thanks, Jeremy! I'm gonna beat on them some more before I cut 'em, but it's looking like it may come to that. I got one trailing arm bolt out - the one on the right side, with fuel lines obstructing - after much pain, got the other side to go. I do plan on replacing all those bushings down there while I've got it apart, but the weather's starting to warm up a bit, so I've got to get a move on it! By the way, the GM shop manual has a picture of removing the shock mount, and in the pic it just slips right out! :L
Thanks for the advice, I'll keep you/the CAC posted...

Frank

 

[Ludigdrums]

No problem! I understand the pain...I've got the bruises to prove it! ;-)

Be careful while beating on the threaded part because it will bend the tip/or crush it is probably a better way to put it. Good luck!

The GM shop manual is pretty funny with that stuff...nothing slips out ever!

I also forgot to mention...Get some Anti-Sieze and put it on the TA bolt...I was told to do this by an alignment shop...because the hard it is for them to adjust everything, the more $$$ it costs. I also put the anti-sieze on the shock mounts and the strut rod bolts as well...just in case I every need to take them apart again!

Can't wait to here your results!

- Jeremy

 

[wrc3]

Ya when I sent my trailing arms out to be rebuilt I couldn't get them out either. The guy that did the rebuild says there is a special tool. Problem with hammering on them is screwing the threads up or worse bending the mount on the trailing arm.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Take your castle nuts to the hardware store and get two nuts of the same size. Lock them together on each shock mount and beat on those.

 

[PigPen]

I used a nice, big two jaw gear puller, and both came out easily. Although I'm in California and haven't had any rusted/siezed hardware. My T-arm bolts came out easily too. I feel empathy for you guys on the East coast.

 

[cwerve74]

I second the big jar gear puller. Used it on mine that were 30 years in NewYork state. Used steady increasing preasure then they let go (very slowly). Just be sure you have a good bit and use the second ear from the bolt end. The strut acts as a brace on the first ear. Also lotssss of PB Blaster and let it sit a day with the juice on to soften it up.

 

[Ala75Vette]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll try both options -- gear puller, and 2 nuts/beat on it -- although I sort of like the "beat on it" option that Bob C. recommended (helps release those pent up frustrations along with the stuck bolts). It'll probably be this weekend before I can give it serious attention, though, since hammering in the garage at night is taboo with kids sleeping. I'll keep you guys posted....

Frank

 

[paintdaddy]

Cut them off and buy new ones ,theyre cheap.

 

[vettenick]

Buy the tool which prevents the threads from mushrooming, plus it gives you a good hitting surface. You should also use a 5 lb hammer. It took me about 4 hours on and off to get it done. After all of that, you're probably should replace them with new. Good luck!

 

[Ala75Vette]

....an update for you guys. Finally got the shock mounts out, and the trailing arms off. Used the gear puller with torch method on the shock mounts, and even though both were quite rust-seized, eventually got them to let go with the proper motivation. Here's a pic of the left shock mount just after it broke loose.

Frank