More progress photos from henny496

[67HEAVEN]

Hopefully, Tom (henny496) will comment using the photo numbers.

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

Describe it for us, Tom.

 

[henny496]

cage fitting

Hello
This is an update on the last pics shown a while ago. The last pics may of caused confusion, so these may help show more of the general idea
The car is still on the jig and I can raise and lower the body by myself fairly easily. Since a lot of this is custom, many trial fittings are necessary.
The first pic shows how the front tube is in position. The dash has to clear and also allow me to use the window and vent cranks. If clearance is tight, I may have to use the shorter cranks on all so I don't hit the cage. If the cage is further ahead, the dash pads are in the way(tight fit)
The second pic shows the roll bar sitting next to the tube from the frame. The body will be raised a little and the roll bar set in which goes down a little lower than the pic depicts(clear headliner and trim) The cage is just to be low enough to fit the trim and halo, but still high enough to be hard to see from outside the car
The third pic shows how the side profile of the cage is. There is much main cage tube to go in behind the roll bar for support as well as the smaller dia bracing. The front cage tube does not allow for leg protection, but a front bar goes out into the engine bay and is also diagonally braced under the firewall, so I am fully protected. Cages have side bars /X braces which can be a pain to climb over for street use. The IHRA will allow me to have this portion removable(constructed at their approval) so it can be removed for street use, but bolted in in minutes for the track.
The bottom of the pic shows the roof hoop(partially)
The fourth pic shows how easy access for welding is now, with only a small hole in the floor. The tube that protrudes up from the frame is welded into a bar that is an inner tube support system hidden inside the GM frame(basically a race car frame inside the GM frame) The only extra weight is two pieces 3 ft long of 1 5/8 tube @ .135 wall(race legal)
You can also see how Canadians have the luxury of Tim Hortons coffee
The last pic may be a little confusing. It shows the crossmember which is 3x3 sq tube front the front floor area. You can see a rd tube sticking down, which is the one that goes up for the front cage support. Thje bottom portion of the tube will be diagonally braced into the main structure as well. The whole idea is to have one tube perform mulitple tasks, so as to save weight and to keep a very clean appearance
There is another tube inward which runs from the 4 link, through the crossmember and then turns at a gentle radius out to the GM frame at the back of the block. More tubing goes there, but future pics will explain this better
take care
Tom

 

[IH2LOSE]

Tom


As I said before WAY above my skill level.I enjoy seeing the other projects come together.

Next time I see a car with a full (real ) cage in it I will have a new respect for the guy who built it understanding What had to be done to squeeze it into place with those tight clearences.

Good Luck

 

[67HEAVEN]

Tom,

Tell us about the tubbing in photo #2.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Here are two more photos from Tom.

#6

#7

Tom promises to post a description tomorrow morning.

 

[henny496]

Tubs and frame rails

Hello
I first would like to thank 67 heaven for posting the pics for me, I had forgotten to mention that in my previous reply
I sent 67 a couple of more pics which are a little more clear of the tubs and rear frame
The rear tires for this car are 19.5 X 33 in Mickey Thompsons and I have a narrowed Dana
I made molds of steel wheel tubs and added a radius to the mold to give a more of a factory look. You can also see the frame and shape of it, and I also made molds of the rear frame rails and glued them into the rear of the car when the frame was in place. I taped 3/8 inch wood to the frame and then pushed the fiberglass pieces close to them so it has a nice close fit (3 /8 in) between the rail and floor
I kept the Corvette center floor section and cut it at certain points, then reglued it back into the car to fit the new frame design. I was told by some chassis shops that I would have to get rid of the storage compartment.
I thought it would be a nice touch to keep it, so I narrowed it 20 inches and raise it about four inches. I am able to clear all of the drag related rear suspension components with it, four link, coil overs, wishbone track locater and the anti roll device. It is not too big, but is good enough for a his/hers sub and a pop.
When I had the body still in the octo-jig, I rolled it upside down and then smoothd out the glass tubs and frame sections. I then put down another two layers of cloth in full sections with a cloth from a pattern maker, I had obtained. This makes for a very smooth look underneath but in a fiberglass mat finish. I will be undercoating the tubs area for sound and stone chips
The inside of the tubs will be finished , but I not sure exactly how yet. I had thought of obtaining paint from a marine supply depot which is used as a deck paint. It has a sandy texture to it, but I am open to ideas on this one.
I fear that it would not last too long to stone chips if painted nicely and I don't want to cover them up with fabric...so I dunno!
The car is quite strong now in the back area and is not much heavier than the aluminum would of been. It was quite a bit more work doing it this way, but as you may of figured out already, I wanted something a little different
take care
Tom