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My new lift has left me high and dry

Joined
Mar 6, 2005
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Trois Rivieres, Quebec, Canada
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JL66REDCPE said:
Glad to hear you got the lift working -- it looks like a real nice piece. What are you using between the lift and the frame rails ???

JL,

It's a beautiful piece, and with the purchase of the lift they supply you with 4 large, rubber blocks 6" x 4" x 2.5", that just happen to be the exact size that is needed for a Corvette frame. When you place the block's at each end of the frame, it lift's the car just high enough off the side lift plates, that the frames center cross member, does not come in contact with the lift. Also, when using these small block's ( you could make your own a little higher if need be ), there is absolutuly no part of the chassis, or suspension that comes anywhere near, to coming in contact with any of the parts of the lift. Had I asked to have them custom made, they couldn't have been any better.


Pseudomind, I am not familiar with the C5 or C6, so I could not comment on the lifting points needed for those platforms. One thing I can tell you is that there is no movable arms used on this lift. It lifts any vehicle by supporting it along the side frame rails. If you can lift the C5 or C6 on the side rails, then this could be the ticket. Hope this helps

Stepinwolf
 
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stepinwolf said:
It's a beautiful piece, and with the purchase of the lift they supply you with 4 large, rubber blocks 6" x 4" x 2.5", that just happen to be the exact size that is needed for a Corvette frame. When you place the block's at each end of the frame, it lift's the car just high enough off the side lift plates, that the frames center cross member, does not come in contact with the lift.

Robert,

It's good to see that your problem is overcome.

Is there any difficulty in placing the rubber blocks, and in positioning the car, so that you get a clean lift without having to crawl around and reach under several times to line things up? Have you marked the spots, for example?

How hard would it be to position the blocks on a sidepipe car?

Due to 50 series tires, suspension dialed way down, VB&P transverse springs, and Hooker sidemount headers, I have extremely limited ground clearance. For example, my front bumpers sit about 2.5" lower than Fuelie's. Have you measured the highest point on the lift when it is fully down?

Looks great.
 

JJS

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What's the brand name and cost, if you don't mind my asking?
It looks like a nice lift, it's just too bad about the customer support - or lack thereof.
Glad you're finally in business. -John
 
Joined
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Messages
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67HEAVEN said:
Robert,

It's good to see that your problem is overcome.

Is there any difficulty in placing the rubber blocks, and in positioning the car, so that you get a clean lift without having to crawl around and reach under several times to line things up? Have you marked the spots, for example?

How hard would it be to position the blocks on a sidepipe car?

Due to 50 series tires, suspension dialed way down, VB&P transverse springs, and Hooker sidemount headers, I have extremely limited ground clearance. For example, my front bumpers sit about 2.5" lower than Fuelie's. Have you measured the highest point on the lift when it is fully down?

Looks great.

Actually Bob, you don't even have to get down on your knees. Just reach in and place the block's 2" inside of your side pipe muffler, and they will come into contact with the side frame rails and lift without any problems. You might have block's with an additional 2" to clear the covers, but it will lift without interference.

I have 40 series with 18 inchers, and with my suspension lowered, I would guess that my car is even lower then yours. As far as ground clearance, because of the loading ramps, it's virtually impossible to have anything hang up, The complete center section is opened up more then 32", so once on the ramps, you could actually have parts hanging lower then the pavement, and they still would not hang up.

When the lift is fully down, the maximum height is only 5", and the approach ramps are 29" in length, so it makes for a very gradual rise to the top of the lift. When the Corvette is on the lift, the complete length of the lift including the approach ramps takes up less space then the length of the Corvette, so floor space should not be a problem either. If you have room for the Corvette, you will have room for this type of lift.

Nobody inquired, but as an added bonus, the lift can be used in a garage with a very low ceiling. Since it has no posts, you can raise it anywhere from 6" to 72" and it locks in about each 5" of lift. My garage is only 8'10" in height, and once the lift is raised to the ceiling, I can walk under without hitting my head. However this is not the way it is to be used. My plans are to raise the lift only about 5' and do all my under car work, sitting comfortably in a roll around chair.

Once the car is on the lift, and is to be kept there for any length of time, the approach ramps can be removed by lifting them straight up, and as a consequence will give you some additional floor space. They just snap into the main section vertically and are very easy to put into place, or remove if necessary.

Anybody interested can visit the site at the following, http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=757, and as far as purchasing, the best price can be found at ASE http://www.asedeals.com/scissor_lifts.html The manufacturers suggested is around 4900$, ( no direct sales ) the discounted price at the various suppliers is a little over 3K, and the sale price from ASE is only 2862$ and the shipping is included anywhere in the lower 48. I had it shipped from California to the nearest border crossing, and had it picked up there. Had I been able to get my hands on a decent truck, I could have picked it up myself at the border and saved a few more dollars.

Hope this covers everything, if anyone needs any additional info, just e-me, or send me your phone number, and I will call ( free long distance ) you back when it's convenient for you.


Bend-Pak full rise scissors lift model # SP-7X

There are actually very few parts, so once the basics are understood, no problems should be experienced. In all fairness, the manufacturer, did send out two different boxes with replacement parts, but it happend during a weekend, and the shipper UPS was not as quick as I would have liked. Other then that, now that I have seen and used it, I would purchase it again if I had to.:upthumbs

Stepinwolf
 

Viet Nam Vett

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stepinwolf said:
Actually Bob, you don't even have to get down on your knees. Just reach in and place the block's 2" inside of your side pipe muffler, and they will come into contact with the side frame rails and lift without any problems. You might have block's with an additional 2" to clear the covers, but it will lift without interference.

I have 40 series with 18 inchers, and with my suspension lowered, I would guess that my car is even lower then yours. As far as ground clearance, because of the loading ramps, it's virtually impossible to have anything hang up, The complete center section is opened up more then 32", so once on the ramps, you could actually have parts hanging lower then the pavement, and they still would not hang up.

When the lift is fully down, the maximum height is only 5", and the approach ramps are 29" in length, so it makes for a very gradual rise to the top of the lift. When the Corvette is on the lift, the complete length of the lift including the approach ramps takes up less space then the length of the Corvette, so floor space should not be a problem either. If you have room for the Corvette, you will have room for this type of lift.

Nobody inquired, but as an added bonus, the lift can be used in a garage with a very low ceiling. Since it has no posts, you can raise it anywhere from 6" to 72" and it locks in about each 5" of lift. My garage is only 8'10" in height, and once the lift is raised to the ceiling, I can walk under without hitting my head. However this is not the way it is to be used. My plans are to raise the lift only about 5' and do all my under car work, sitting comfortably in a roll around chair.

Once the car is on the lift, and is to be kept there for any length of time, the approach ramps can be removed by lifting them straight up, and as a consequence will give you some additional floor space. They just snap into the main section vertically and are very easy to put into place, or remove if necessary.

Anybody interested can visit the site at the following, http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=757, and as far as purchasing, the best price can be found at ASE http://www.asedeals.com/scissor_lifts.html The manufacturers suggested is around 4900$, ( no direct sales ) the discounted price at the various suppliers is a little over 3K, and the sale price from ASE is only 2862$ and the shipping is included anywhere in the lower 48. I had it shipped from California to the nearest border crossing, and had it picked up there. Had I been able to get my hands on a decent truck, I could have picked it up myself at the border and saved a few more dollars.

Hope this covers everything, if anyone needs any additional info, just e-me, or send me your phone number, and I will call ( free long distance ) you back when it's convenient for you.


Bend-Pak full rise scissors lift model # SP-7X

There are actually very few parts, so once the basics are understood, no problems should be experienced. In all fairness, the manufacturer, did send out two different boxes with replacement parts, but it happend during a weekend, and the shipper UPS was not as quick as I would have liked. Other then that, now that I have seen and used it, I would purchase it again if I had to.:upthumbs

Stepinwolf

Man that sounds cool.. I might even be able to get that in my one car gee-rage. Maybe we could make a group purchase.. What-da-ya think Heaven?

Next years cash outlays for the vette..?? :D
 

bossvette

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knob.JPG



That is as you sumized a flow control valve commonly used to control the speed of cylinders The ones I am familiar with would allow full pressure in one direction but limit the flow in the opposite direction. Much of the production equipment had them mounted on both sides of the cylinder so you could control the speed in both directions by controling the flow of the exhaust fluid.


p.s. another hint if you are using any lift in a low height situation have a way to manually disconnect power to the power pack (a plug will work) in case the power pack missfuntions and won't shut off:W :W :ugh
 

firstgear

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Pseudomind said:
Alright, I am a novice and it is hard to tell from the photos. Will this lift work for a C5 or C6? Does it have adjustable arms which reach the jack points?

Thanks
I would think that you would want to make sure that you have jacking pucks in place and then I wouldn't worry about it...if you don't know what the pucks are, do a search on the C5 forum and I am sure they will turn up. You basically drive over the lift, and the jacking points are right under the frame rails in the 4 corners of the car, no problem, get the pucks and it will save anything that might otherwise get smooshed!

to be sure, measure the distance side to side between the puck holes and then check the width of the lift.

Herb
 

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