My Poor man's 6 Link

[Brutus]

Here's my attempt at making my own 6 Link rear suspension addition.
My idea was to come up with a top mounting bracket and strut rod set up that was simpler to make as well as using existing parts that were left over after buying Vette Brakes' Smart Struts which most people seem to end up with at some time or another. So I modified the old lower strut rod bracket to fit onto the top of the diff, reasoning the the old bracket carried with it the same mounting points as the lower one hence negating the need for major measurement hassles as well as having to come up with a workable mount for the new struts.
The biggest benefit I saw from using the old strut bracket was firstly it's ability to utilise the old strut rod ends instead of Heim joints and secondly it's rod mounting points had longitudinal slots as well as camber bolts which can be used to take up any descripencies in the final alignment of the upper rods in relation to the lower ones.
I saw no reason to go to the expense of utilising Heim joints apart from their cost over here, and also because I, as well as most others still maintain the poly bushed lower rods. So why mix up the combination?
This set up is ready to go into the car now for it's trial fitting so I can line everything up and make the trailing arm brackets to mount the top rods. I appreciate any constructive comments from those better versed in these things, but be nice please guys....it's only my first attempt at this. Also if anyone wants any more detailed descriptions of what I've done feel free to ask as I have plenty of pics that I took along the way.

 

[Ken]

Oh my Bob, all that polishing just to go fast?

_ken

 

[Brutus]

You ain't seen nothin'yet

I have not yet begun to detail!

 

[68 427]

Nice idea. Looks good. Have a couple of suggestions.

With the added upper control rod, you now have three links locating the hub, to prevent binding you should make sure the yolks have plenty of plunge, are worn out or clips are removed or something.

Since your upper link is the same length as the lower, you should have zero camber change in bump. This is a bad thing if you go around corners. Look at some racing chassis books, but I think you want about 1 to 1 & 1/2 degrees negative camber for every 1 degree of roll.

Finally, keep in mind where your links are relative to the ground. Since the Vette IRS is a modified trailing arm, there will be toe change though suspension travel. What is important is to keep from going toe out in the middle of a corner - brings the rear end around fast. So, if your control rods are higher in the center of the car than the wheels, then under bump or roll the rear wheels will toe in. Thats why the racers used to raise the diff into the chassis.

Good luck and keep posting pictures

 

[Brutus]

Good points

Thanks for the suggestions 68.
Firstly the major reason I decided to go with the 6 Link was because my yolks had for some reason previously been machined off at the C clip...so I don't have one and it's near on impossible to buy new ones over here at all.
As for the suspension settings...I have a very good race suspension shop near here that does excellent work They will be handling all the settings so it should turn out alright.
I appreciate your advice too. Thanks.