Need Help

[Wamp]

I am stuck with a decision of what to do FIRST with the 74.

1. 700R4 conversion, (where to get it from?)

2. HEI ignition (Full MSD) 6AL box, Pro billet distributor, blaster II coil.

I will be going to a 383 stroker engine (around 400 HP), with the money I have now, what would be better the 700R4 conversion or the ignition conversion? My delema is I can use the ignition on new engine when i get it (thus reducing the price). Will the 700R4 conversion be to high speed now for a stock L48? I say both, but funds wont allow it.

Need input

 

[silver 80]

I would say go with the 700R4. How long before the 383?
As for where to get the 700R4 I was going to say bowtie overdrive but then there is a new kid on the block perf trans? do a search on here about bowtie.
I went with the ZZ4 first only because the engine was on the last leg, if it wasn't for that I would have went with the 700R4 first.
tom

 

[Wamp]

re

It might be a while before I can afford the 383 that I want. I was thinking Bowtie or the transmission center, that Raptor sounds pretty nice. Guess I should of made this a poll to get everyones ideas. Thought 69myway and scott81 would have some input on this one.

 

[page62]

Tranny. No question. First thing I did and it was also the BEST single mod you can make!

What's your rear end gear ratio? Consider the 200-4R if it's 3.55 or above.

 

[Wamp]

3.08

I have the 308 rear end. was afraid the tranny may to much for the engine I currently have, but have read that first is lower than stock th350's first. Should I go with the stage 2 botie or a built Raptor from the transmission center?

Raptor

 

[Wamp]

stall converter

Should I get the 2200 or the 2400 stall converter? Changing rear gears is no problem. Hate to have my vette parked for to long. I was thinking 2200 for the stock engine, but 2400 for the 383. What would be the drawbacks driving with the 2400 in a stock engine configuration?

 

[page62]

The 700R4 has a very low first gear. It's great for launches, if that's your thing (same goes for the 2400 stall converter). But even with a 200-4R, I barely spend any time in first.

With regards to 2200 vs. 2400, talk to the person who sells you the tranny. Different brands of converters vary widely in how they apply stall ratings. But regardless I highly recommend a lockup converter for highway driving.

 

[YELLO77]

New to discussion

Just found this discussion. Very interesting. I am in the process of taking my 77 and upgrading to a ZZ4 and a 700R4. I started out with just the ZZ4 in mine. Before getting engine, I rebuilt the T-arms, actually I replaced with rebuilts from VAN STEEL. Then upgrades the rear spring with a fiberglass unit. Thought about all that torque and dicided on the 700R4 (from BOWTIE OVERDRIVES). Now I'm broke!! I have a new trans in the crate but still have no engine.

 

[Jack]

I am stuck with a decision of what to do FIRST with the 74.

1. 700R4 conversion, (where to get it from?)

2. HEI ignition (Full MSD) 6AL box, Pro billet distributor, blaster II coil.

I will be going to a 383 stroker engine (around 400 HP), with the money I have now, what would be better the 700R4 conversion or the ignition conversion?

A good GM HEI dist in tip-top shape with vacuum advance & properly curved is all the ignition you'll need for 400 hp. You can get a used one for $30 ... rebuild is CHEAP ... parts available ANYWHERE. Get a used/rebuilt/repro electronic tach from a 75-77 vette ... it'll fit right into your 74's dash & match your speedo. GM HEI is very reliable ... MSD not quite so and repairs on the fly will not happen w/MSD. $475-$575 worth of MSD stuff & you'd hardly even notice what it does. Or just rebuild your dist & install a Pertronix pickup to eliminate points. Even a points dist can reliably fire at 9K with the right points, cap, rotor, shaft clearance.

See where I'm going? ... get a nice transmission & an inexpensive (but solid) ignition.

 

[Wamp]

trans it is then

I was under the assumption that all 700R4's had a lock up converter.

I have the electronic tach already sitting in a box.

I started this rebuild with the Max Performance suspension upgrade. was told that stock suspension would not handle the HP, and that another weak link would be trans (if I never rebuilt the TH350 first). I thought I'd get the 700R4, 4 gears has got to be better for high speed cruizing, I rap that poor stock (195hp) 350 out on the highway. Now, I have to contend with the 96 LT4 parked next to it so the 383 is my next step. I was thinking ignition because thats an upgrade that can be transfered to the new engine when I FINALLY save enough for it.

 

[WayneLBurnham]

Yeah. putting in a 700R is my next step

I'm killing my poor little stockblock with this constant 4K+

Just wish I had some hope the 700R will last even 18 months, but I can't afford the Gear Vendors right now.

As for power handling alone, your 350 is a considerably more durable and stronger transmission than even a built up 700R. While not as strong as the 400, it's not a lot weaker in a mid-weight vehicle. I've talked to two tranny shops in my area and both hate the 700's - one refused to do the conversion at all with any kind of decent warranty, whereas they had no problem doing the necessary chopping and hacking to put in a Gear Vendors.

You're getting that 700R (or 200R) for the overdrive only.

Good luck! You'll probably have yours in before mine. If it's only a matter of $250 bucks to have a power handling upgrade (Bowtie OD offers I think four versions) I would spend the extra.

BTW, you can get into an aftermarket ignition for $200-250. That 383 build up, with an all-forged rotating assy, heads, cam, intake, headers, and any necessary machining will easily go 10 times that. A built up 700R swap from a 350 or 400 will go $1700-2000.

The ignition willl only help some, and can be bolted on any time.
(The best thing it gives is a rev limiter, to my mind.)

The engine upgrade will increase your engine's power 75-125%, which is an incredible increase, taking you well beyond the 10#/hp level. Of todays cars, only vettes, vipers, a few of the ricers and some of the expensive Eurotrash things exceed that.

The overdrive though will give you a much longer lasting engine, insane top end, and, changing from a 350 to a 700R, a huge increase in takeoff, not to mention better gas mileage.

 

[Wamp]

Just wish I had some hope the 700R will last even 18 months, but I can't afford the Gear Vendors right now.

You dont think that a 700R would hold up to a 400HP engine?

You're getting that 700R (or 200R) for the overdrive only.

Pretty much YES. I like the idea of the quick launch, but my overall decision was the lowered RPM range that 4th would give me.

I know the TH350 is a pretty stout tranny, if all I drove was around town and 1/4 mile runs I would keep it.

The prices have been researched again and again. want to keep the vette on the road as much as possible while I fund my madness, hence the order in which I am proceeding.

Suspension
Trans (U-joints, driveline)
HEI ignition (so I can finish my dash with electric tach)
Engine (BRE street plus, 383 stroker, 400HP)

 

[WayneLBurnham]

Well...it SHOULD...hopefully

Many here have them (and the 200R). Most seem happy with them on small blocks of various descriptions, even an occasional mild big block. However, others said privately they had had them grenade on them. I'd definitely buy the highest HP rated version they have.

Hey, you have the mechanical tach then? If that's all that wrong with it - wanting to run an electronic tach - you don't need HEI for that. The tach just gets a signal from the negative coil. I don't believe the instrument cluster tachs are any different. In any event, you should be able to get an HEI distributor intact at a junkyard for $50. If you were really concerned with the condition the module was in, you could put the Pertronix II in it's place. I haven't used one myself, but they look solid enough (although I dimly remember somebody complaining about one here.)