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Need Suggestions/Install tips For a new Fuel Pump

  • Thread starter Thread starter Macgyver
  • Start date Start date
M

Macgyver

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Yes its the stupid fuel pump again sorry. It decided to take a dump on me yesterday during rush hour traffic on a 6 lane road on the hotest day. Nice. It was probably karma. Oh well.

So now I need a new fuel pump. Im def not going to autozone but i did price their pump @27.99$. Oreillys is 35$. But I want a decent one that wont give out for another 23 years.

Also where is it at and how hard is it to rip and reinstall. Some of my buddies said its real easy just 2 bolts but the lines to the tank are the hard part to get back in. As always your help is greatly appreciated.
 
It's located on the passenger side of block towards the front. A couple of tips, that someone gave me and found to be usefull. One, work on cool engine. Two, clean area around pump with some kind of strong spray degreaser, using a drain pan to catch drippings. Three, there is a bolt located on the front of block that doesn't seem to serve any purpose. Remove this bolt and replace it with a longer one. Do not torque this bolt any more than you would a valve cover gasket bolt.(15 in lbs) This bolt will be a life saver. It holds the rod, that accuates the fuel pump, in place. Not using this bolt will allow that rod to slide out to its stop(side of block). You can spend a very long time pushing this rod back in place by hand. It's a very simple replacement, after you stuggle for hours doing your first one. Oh, most important, don't forget to replace original bolt before you attempt to start engine!!!!
 
i just installed a Edelbrock on mine...had to remove the A/C brackets on the front side of the block to access the pump....when i reinstalled the pump rod , i put a large dab of grease on the end of the rod....when i push it in , the grease creates a vacuum that holds the pin up ....i had problems when i went to install the pump....clearance issues with the outlet valve...the pin held with grease till the next day when i went back and finished....just my experience...kind of a pita but take your time and label stuff as you remove it....and use the heck out of a digital camera for help in reinstalling stuff ....it helps to be able to look back ...
Good luck,Chas
 
Perfect. thanks fot those tips guys. Where should i get one from, or is a pump a pump? What is the price for a decent one or that Edelbrock one vettedude73?
 
i got mine at www.summitracing.com it cost $82 to my door....but you need to get a plate so the intake and outlet come in and out from the bottom...i have other edelbrock things...carb,intake,cam....so im staying with it...good luck ...Chas
Macgyver said:
Perfect. thanks fot those tips guys. Where should i get one from, or is a pump a pump? What is the price for a decent one or that Edelbrock one vettedude73?
 
Unless you have really BIG CAM or HUGE MOTOR or car lives at track ... an OE replacement type pump'll feed all it demands. Your OE pump did the trick for many years ... replace it with like kind ... it'll do the job and fit correctly with no need to mod.
JACK:gap
 
WAIT A MINUTE, (illquote you) "I want a decent one that wont give out for another 23 years" Why would you go anywhere BUT a G.M. dealer to get one!!!!!!!!!!! WHY!!!!!:confused
 
Mac, over the years i've replaced a few in customers cars. we used ac/delco in GM ,motorcraft in fords,etc. personally i would be comfortable with a NAPA product. they allways provide me with excellent products. however, i do price shop and if i can get the same exact item at pep-boys i buy it there.
my 02.
BTW, it has been recommended i put an insulator spacer under the carb. that is suppose to cure my hot/idle stalling. who else is running a spacer under the aftermarket carbs?

Robin
 
Macgyver
If you have one of those pencil sized pick-up magnets, that will work well in the bolt hole in the front of the block to hold the pump pushrod. That's what I always use.
Ol Blue
 
Ol Blue said:
Macgyver
If you have one of those pencil sized pick-up magnets, that will work well in the bolt hole in the front of the block to hold the pump pushrod. That's what I always use.
Ol Blue
I like that!!! Less chance or no chance of damaging rod.
 
If you set the engine at #1 TDC first, that will place the pump pushrod on the base circle of its actuating lobe on the cam (less fighting the operating lever spring when installing the new pump and getting the bolts started). You'll also need to pinch off the rubber hose from the main line to the pump - gas will siphon from the tank if you don't.

:beer
 
WOW!!! Ok not fun

As always everything that could go wrong did. And it doesnt help that I get off work at 12am and everythings closed except for one part store a half hour away. The hardest part was being able to reach the bolts. The AC bracket was def in the way. Once i figured out how the rod moved :confused I was able to get the new pump back on. Thank you everyone for you r advice, Im back on the road!
 
Fuel pump rod

A neat trick....

Stick the rod in the freezer for about an hour or so. The metal expands and when you slide it in-it stays in place.
 
All be it very stupid in hindsight, it was a stroke of genious. That sweet, pink, plastic, mechanical, pencil saved my life. Maybe Ill write a story to Bic and they can use it and give me like a years supply of stationary.:beer
 

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