New radiator: stock-type or universal w/external cooler?

[MaineShark]

I'm thinking I may just tackle the radiator at the same time as the electric fans go in, since I know the radiator is not in good shape.

But aluminum replacement radiators are in the $500-600 range, which is a big chunk of change.

Universal-fit aluminum radiators are $175-200, but don't include the transmission fluid cooler that I need for my auto trans. But I can add an external cooler for $100-150, either with or without a fan of its own. That puts the whole setup into the $300-350 range, roughly. Plus the cost of new coolant lines, if the originals don't line up.

Personally, I think that having the cooler external might be better, but that also means quite a bit of fabricating to make mounting brackets for the radiator and cooler.

Actually, I'd probably end up spending the same money, since I'd probably add an oil cooler at the same time. But I'd have the oil cooler in addition to the new radiator.

Thoughts? Is it best to just go with a DeWitts or Griffin direct-fit radiator, or will the external cooler(s) really work better (like I think) and make up for the trouble of fitting a universal radiator?

Joe

 

[76L82]

Joe - I had the same issue with my 70 Super Sport. I went the route of a separate external transmission cooler. Now at least I am sure that the transmission is getting adequate cooling.

This is obvious but you'll need to make sure the width of the two together plus your electric fan set up are going to fit. I kept a direct drive fan (FlexiLite) along with the new radiator and external transmission cooler. In order for the fan to not hit my alternator, I had to add a 2 inch spacer to my water pump/fan set up. This put the fan too close to the transmission cooler. Hummm...in order to solve this problem....and I would believe that my 70 camaro has more room from the block to the radiator than the Vette...I moved the transmission cooler to the very far lower edge of the radiator support. This has seemed to work for me but I am not convinced it was the best solution.

You definitely want to look into getting the thinnest transmission cooler you can...IMHO.

 

[MaineShark]

Well, I won't have interference problems with the mechanical fan, since I won't have one. Of course, that also means that I will need a cooler with its own electric fan...

Joe

 

[1979toy]

The internal cooler in the radiator is a VERY minumum cooling unit. One tube running from inlet to outlet with no fins. Don't bother getting a radiator with automatic transmission connections if you are even thinking about adding an external cooler. Even the smallest external cooler will be better than the internal one. A cooler without a fan can be as low as 30.00. There are also combination units that have both engine and transmission units together, usually with a fan. If I HAD to mount a cooler behind the radiator the combo unit with a fan would be my choice.

 

[LEEJANDZ]

Keep the cost down and go with a aftermarket stock type radiator.
I put a brand new 3 row radiator in my 79 about 6 weeks ago.
Perfect fit... and I didnt have to change anything.

The radiator was about $200.
Let me know if you want more information.

JASON *** BRAND NEW 350 cid GASKET SETS FOR SALE!!! *** 1979 L-82

 

[MaineShark]

LEEJANDZ: do you know if it is possible to find decent-quality, stock-type aluminum radiators for a similar price? My future plans for an engine swap pretty much rule out the original copper core.

1979toy: right now, I'm looking at the Perma-Cool coolers. They have some dual-circuit coolers, but I feel that might be more appropriate for cooling both transmission and power steering fluid, rather than oil and transmission fluid. The problem, as always, is packaging. A 10-1/2" x 14" cooler for the transmission and power steering, as well as a similar-size cooler for the engine oil, pretty much covers the entire flow area behind the radiator.

I mention cooling the PS fluid, because I am considering installing a hydraulic brake booster at some point down the road, which would put greater strain on the PS system.

The only way I can see to mount a decent-sized cooler in front of the radiator, is down at the bottom vent, horizontally across the two lower braces. That strikes me as a particularly exposed position, as well as one which puts a lot of heat inside that nose when the car is parked after running.

Joe

 

[MaineShark]

LEEJANDZ: do you know if it is possible to find decent-quality, stock-type aluminum radiators for a similar price? My future plans for an engine swap pretty much rule out the original copper core.

1979toy: right now, I'm looking at the Perma-Cool coolers. They have some dual-circuit coolers, but I feel that might be more appropriate for cooling both transmission and power steering fluid, rather than oil and transmission fluid. The problem, as always, is packaging. A 10-1/2" x 14" cooler for the transmission and power steering, as well as a similar-size cooler for the engine oil, pretty much covers the entire flow area behind the radiator.

I mention cooling the PS fluid, because I am considering installing a hydraulic brake booster at some point down the road, which would put greater strain on the PS system.

The only way I can see to mount a decent-sized cooler in front of the radiator, is down at the bottom vent, horizontally across the two lower braces. That strikes me as a particularly exposed position, as well as one which puts a lot of heat inside that nose when the car is parked after running.

Joe

 

[LEEJANDZ]

I will talk to my radiator people and find out for you.
But I dont think you will be able to find an aluminum radiator for around $200.

Do you need the stock style radiator dimensions with the tranny cooler lines in the stock location?

 

[klb76]

Speedway sells a universal radiator for a very reasonable price, it is a northern radiator (no epoxy) and is very close to the same size as the stock radiator of my 76. (A little narrower) I have the luxury of a standard, but I am running a universal electric fan that mounts the radiator and I am running very cool. I would recommend this radiator to anyone who knows how to use a socket wrench, in about 2 hours I had it installed by myself without too much bubba work A guy on the forum (Jack) showed me the link and I am about 400$ grateful. Speedway sells it under their name but it is a top notch product.

klb

 

[MaineShark]

LEEJANDZ: yeah, I don't think so either. Not a stock one, anyway. The universal radiators are sub-$200, but they don't include the tranny cooler.

And yeah, it needs to bolt in. If not, I might as well just go with the universal radiator with an external cooler.

klb76: I was looking at that one, and the similar Griffin universal radiators that Speedway also sells (Summit and Jegs do too). How did you actually mount the radiator? I'm trying to figure out how much extra work it will be to mount the universal, vs. the higher cost of the stock-type.

Joe

 

[LEEJANDZ]

MaineShark

I got my copper 3 row with the stock dimensions & tranny cooler lines for under $200.
I deal with the nations biggest radiator company... so if there is an aluminum radiator with the C3 dimensions I can get it.

Normally the radiators they sell through the catalogs are the same ones that I can get... but with a substantial savings.

The radiator shop is closed right now... so I will have to call them in the morning

 

[klb76]

In my situation I was lucky enough that I could reuse my two lower C brackets, but I had to do some welding to fix up the lower half of my radiator mounts to fix some rust. Then on the top two C brackets I reused one hole on the mount and drilled a new upper hole to reuse the upper C clamps. I did do a little grinding on the top of the tabs of the radiator to assure myself there would be no right/left. Otherwise the most trouble came from trying to fabricate a bracket to mount my fan on the rear of the radiator. A word of advice is you will need to reuse your old radiator cap and also you will need to find the brass fitting to connect the hose to your overflow. All in all it was a i would say 4 out of 10 in difficulty (I am no mechanic either) and it sure looks sweet with the aluminum in front of the engine. It defintily gets comments everytime the hood comes up.

klb

 

[Larry82]

Buy a 4 row, not a replacement 3 row. Will cool almost as well as an aluminum at 1/2 the price. Put a 4 row in mine recently and it holds under 200 in hight heat and humidty in stop and go traffic. Any movement and it drops to 180. Water wetter, straight water, all the tricks did NOTHING until I put the 4 row in.

 

[LEEJANDZ]

MaineShark

What kind of engine build up are you planning?
Stock or near-stock engines dont need the 4 row or aluminum radiator.

Since I have put my brand new 3 row I have not had any temperature problems.

And I have a slightly modified L-82 with around 300 HP.
When I stop being lazy and put my nitrous kit on then we will see how the temperature is.

 

[MaineShark]

I have a 4-row, right now. It's not in the greatest shape, so I'm sure that's a big part of the cooling problem, but I'm going to be replacing the engine, and the 400-block runs hotter than the 350, so I want to have extra cooling capacity. I want to be able to handle 450 hp, since that's probably my upper limit for this car.

Just a further thought: is it possible to re-core an original radiator with an aluminum core? That would let me keep the original tanks and cooler, and have the cooling benefits of aluminum.

Joe