New Vette owner needs brake advice

[2BLACKZS]

Just starting my first vette ownership / relationship and need some advice. My 75 coupe needs brakes. I'd like to replace all rotors and calipers, not rebuild them. Plus, I'd really like to improve the stopping power with an upgraded package. Something better than OE.

Please help me out with a few suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[bill81vette]

!st welcome to CAC!!!!
2nd check out VBP,Vette Brakes and Products, they have loads of upgrades to choose from!!!!

 

[Daryllawman]

Welcome to the Corvette Action Center.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Best of luck with the new car, I am some of the C3 owners will chime in soon
with there recomendations

Now would be the time to look at all of the hard and soft lines while your digging into it.

Also I would suggest a motive power bleeder for bleeding the brakes

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

There's very little reason to go looking for upgrades. The stock set up about as good as it gets- when in good working condition. There's few cars on the road today that have a better setup- even though the C2/C3 Corvette system is more than 45 years old in design.

You can change stuff for the 'bling' factor, but that's probably not what you're after.

With respect to rotors, change them only if they are 100% unsalvageable. Putting new ones on can bring on all sorts of issues with runout. Don't be put off by surface rust or minor scores. Why do you feel they need to be changed?

 

[bmotojoe]

I agree, even the highest quality rotors on the market need to be resurfaced before installing them depending on how long they have been on the shelf. So if you do go with new rotors I would spend the $8.00 to $10.00 each to have them turned. Also a good quality semi metallic brake pad will give you adequate stopping power. Just make sure you replace them in sets and break them in properly.
Brian

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

My first Corvette was a yellow 75 and I spent a few bucks on upgrading the cosmetics. I changed the rotors and added better pads and the car stopped just fine. Later on I put a Goodwrench engine and a Jackson Gear Drive. The car was mechanically a 9. I really liked the car and was always getting compliments. I wish I had never sold it.

 

[JohnZ]

There's no need to have new rotors turned (unless they've been stored in salt water), and you're better off not replacing them at all if they're within minimum thickness specs. If you do have to replace them, you can't just "bolt them on" like you can on a car with floating calipers; you need to dial-indicator check them for lateral runout (.004" or less TIR) and correct any runout in excess of that or you'll end up with air-pumping issues that will drive you crazy.

Original rotors will go 100K miles + with no problems using OEM organic pads; semi-metallic or "hot-dog" race pads will eat them up.

 

[bmotojoe]

My suggestion is to always check run out on new rotors. 9 times out of ten they will be off from on the shelf storage. You have multiple items of your weight stacked on top of you for any period of time and you too will need an adjustment to be straight again. Its just the fact of gravity.
Brian

 

[6880 Mike]

There's very little reason to go looking for upgrades. The stock set up about as good as it gets- when in good working condition....

I agree. The stock brakes are fine for daily driving.