Off the frame restoration

[Tomcatt]

Help... with restoration

I hope someone can answer a few Questions,I have.I have read a lot of threads but couldn't find the answers I'm looking for. Okay here goes-- I'm doing an off the frame resto on a 1974 T top--- I have pulled the engine and tranny,rebuilt the engine,bored and stroked it to 383 -- I'm ready to pull the front clip and my question on this is, Whats the best way to cut the clip from the fire wall and how to attach it properly when I'm ready to put back together again? Second question, whats the correct way to lift the body off the frame? is there somone who built a dolly to set it on after I pull it off? Last question, the door frame piller and windshield needs repair -- rust problems -- window I think I can fix with epoxy, door piller I've been told that I can weld a replacement piller over the existing one/ same for the cab frame, got into this by trying to replace the body mounts, in for a buck- in for for a grand, that saying is true hehehe,okay I hope I'm not asking to much, Thanks in advance.

 

[akfox1]

Why pull off the front clip? Just pull the body in one piece. Make the nose as light as possible by removing the radiator and headlight buckets, etc. Leave the radiator support frame intact for strength.
I pulled the body off my 69 convertible in 1998. I built a dolly out of 2x4's using measurements from a drawing of the frame I got out of a book. It was supported mainly by 2x4's running under the rocker panels where the frame rails normally sit. I removed the doors, but had to build braces for the door opening to prevent body flex; just some 1" square tubing that bolted to the hinge bolts and the latch bolt hole.
Body lift was done in my driveway using a chain hoist, a lift strap I bought from Volunteer Products, and a sturdy lift frame I built from 2x4's and 2x8's.
It is a huge job, of course. There is a book on the subject by Noland Adams that would be a great help.

Good luck.

 

[celeryman22]

I used Noland Adam's book for my body dolly. I extended a section at the front to hold the nose up, there wasn't any support at the front. I also managed to use a Engine picker to lift the body off the car and reinstall it. The motor was out when I pulled the body, but when I went to reinstall the body the motor and fuel tank were both in. The engine puller still managed to grab it high enough to get over it. I didn't buy and body puller straps I used a set of smaller crank straps, hooked under the birdcage and ran the two staps up to the picker.

Worked good, it took me and a friend. Two friends would be better on at the front, one at the back and one on the picker.

If you use the picker make sure the dolly has big enough wheels the picker can slide under it. I didn't do this and it was a pain to set the body on the dolly.

Mike

 

[Tomcatt]

Thanks for the info

Big thanks to u guys,this is the first time for me to pull the body from the frame, at first I thought it came off in 2 pcs but after doing some homework I found it came off in 1 pc.Thank you for verifing that for me.If you read this post again let me know if you think I need to pull the dash apart or just pull the body off with the dash intact.I dont think I need to take it apart,so let me know what u guys think? also Im going to have a new paint job done,should I paint the body before I put it back on or after ??? I need to find that Noland Adams book ant help on that? Thanks Again Tom

 

[celeryman22]

I was thinking of painting my body before I put it back on the frame. My problem and it will probably happen to you also is the straps that you use to lift the body will rub on the new paint. It may not hurt it but do you really want to try. Also if you go to put any sort of pin striping or two tone you will want to have the body on the frame so you want line up the doors. Also, the same goes for the bumpers.

Dont't quote me on this, I am also just learning.
www.vette-restoration.com

Mike

 

[Tomcatt]

Hey mike,Yup makes sense about the straps rubbing the paint.Idont want to take the dash apart unless I have to, I think I'll try it and see ---- Tom

 

[akfox1]

I painted it after it was back together for the reasons of door and gap alignment. It would be REAL easy to scuff up the door jambs or crunch the paint in the seams while aligning the doors, hood, etc. Masking tape helps protect it if you do try to align painted parts.
Plus, the fiberglass body flexes A LOT with no frame to support it. More potential for cracking a new paint job.

I wouldn't take out the dash if you don't need to, but everything else you can remove will save on weight.

Search Amazon.com for books by Noland Adams. It is called the Body Lift Workbook, or something like that. Searching by Author will find it.

 

[Tomcatt]

Thanks akafox1 for your info.I'll look at amazon for this book,Ireally need it---Tom

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks akafox1 for your info.I'll look at amazon for this book,Ireally need it---Tom

You won't find it at Amazon, or any other commercial bookstore. You can order it (and the companion video tape) from the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org.

 

[red70vette]

Before you spend another nickle on this car you need to resolve the birdcage rust issue. That repair is neither simple nor cheap. More than one vette has had to bite the dust because the birdcage was too far gone.

Check the archives for threads on birdcage repairs. It entails a lot more than welding a new post on top of the old one.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Although mine is a C2, the differences are minor underneath.

Check Chapter 3 for photos of how we lifted the complete body and dropped it on a wooden dolley.

Click the photos on that page to enlarge them.

Good luck.

 

[74bigblock]

Great year.. great project! Do you have a digital camera??? Send us some pix so we can cheer you on!

 

[Tomcatt]

Thanks for the help guys,keep cheering me on I need it.Never did this before [ she said] oops that came from another time in a Galaxy far far away.Yaa I do have a digital camera and I'll post pics for you on my progress.You know u cant see alot with out taking the body off but what I can see so far is no rust on my frame to speak of but right where the body mounts in the corner by the door hinges water collected and rusted the metal there.the body mount bolt just spins after I got it to break lose and start to back out. My motor is done,rebuilt the a arms and front end completly,cleaned up the engine bay and painted it,I'm going to put a 350 TCI trans and torque converter.Interior is done black leather,Jet Hot coated Hooker headers,alum radiator,new radiator frame ect. ect.all i wanted to do before I put the engine and tranny back in is change out the body mounts then I found this.I'll take pics and post them ---- Thanks again Tom