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Oil change goes bad! Shock failure

Kenny

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
86
Location
Imperial,Mo
Corvette
93 Coupe Torch Red Daily driver
Did an oil change today. Didn't go quite as planned

As I was jacking the car up I heard a loud PFFFFSSST! Sounded like a tire sidewall failure but tires were OK.

I don't use jack stands but set the wheels on blocks instead. I notice the left side is setting higher than right. Inspection shows shock bent and jammed into the upper A arm.

Well I finish the oil change then go to remove the shock. It's now in two (2) pieces. Looks like the piston simply came off the shaft inside the shock body. No "damage" to the shaft just a cleanly threaded end.

The sound I heard was the gas coming out of the shock when I extended it.
Got a pair of KYB's coming. Of course I can't just do a shock replacement. I must clean 17 years and 150K miles of crud off the suspension. It's all apart but the A arms Tomorrow the A arms come off too. While the wife is at work in the dishwasher they go!!!
If it can clean greasy pots..........
 
look at it this way. The shock failed in the driveway not out on the road in the middle of the night.
As for the dishwasher best parts washer ever. I have put motorcycle heads, valve covers and all sorts of bits a pieces in one at one time or another. Just run it an extra time empty and nobody is the wiser.
 
look at it this way. The shock failed in the driveway not out on the road in the middle of the night.
As for the dishwasher best parts washer ever. I have put motorcycle heads, valve covers and all sorts of bits a pieces in one at one time or another. Just run it an extra time empty and nobody is the wiser.

It was probably bad for some time.

New issue is the rear bolts on the lower control arms. There is not enough room to remove them there is a cross brace in the way. FSM was no help. Looks like I'll have to block the engine and loosen engine mount on drivers side to remove brace don't know about pass side yet.
Any suggestions???????
 
on cleaning the aluminum parts,

I use Eagle-1 cast wheel "etching" cleaner on all my chassis aluminum. Never allow the stuff to touch the rubber parts or the composite spring, but it is unbelievable how well it cleans aluminum. Get as much grease off scraping then a brushing with dish detergent, then spray the part with the wheel cleaner. Its a combo of several acids that will leave you with a new looking part. Spray on..allow to soak, rinse. Really oxidised parts may need 2nd soaking. The stuff eats the crud out of the pores of the metal without scratching and dulling the surface like a wire brush would.

I just did my rear wheel suspension and it all looks new. I'm planning on removing the spring soon so I can finish the half'shafts and diff-carrier.

When you pull the A-arms, see if there are a set of poly bushings to press in. That will tighten up the front end lots. Ball joints? I'd better shut up...I wanted to pass along a tip and I'm here thinking of more work!
Enjoy the project
 
Thanks for the tip for more WORK. Front end is good just covered with crud.

I've used the wheel cleaner on motor cycle engines b4 thanks for the reminder

My other favorite de greaser is oven cleaner granted it will remove paint too.

It's them 2 pesky lower A arm bolts that are mocking me I hear them :L
as I type
 
Thanks for the tip for more WORK. Front end is good just covered with crud.

I've used the wheel cleaner on motor cycle engines b4 thanks for the reminder

My other favorite de greaser is oven cleaner granted it will remove paint too.

It's them 2 pesky lower A arm bolts that are mocking me I hear them :L
as I type

I looked in the manual (FSM and Haynes) and saw the removal of the cross brace for pulling the oil pan but no mention elsewhere.


I hope the disassembly isn't too bad...
Neither book mentioned any issue with the rear bolts, so maybe they gain some room as they are loosened..
.The only written concerns were with seperating the lower ball joint stud.

I had forgotten about over cleaner. Chemically, the earliest known degreaser, lye. Mean stuff. hard on skin too..
 
Went to the pick n pull today and picked up some replacement A arm bolts. I used a high speed cut off tool and cut the heads off the existing bolts and out they came. I'll put them back in with the nuts on the outside and problem solved :upthumbs

The cleaning continues
 
Here's the latest update. Ordered KYB shocks from EBay $27 ea good price :D
A week later they arrive. First one I look at is nice and shiny. The second one is someones take off nasty black oily :mad. Email the seller and another is on its way :)

I cleaned all the control arms with mag wheel cleaner. What a difference look almost like new.
The calipers, brackets, rotors are now painted. Even cleaned the inside of the wheels.

Got everything back together. Flushed out the brake system. The fluid had turned sort of green.:ugh I'm back on the road better than before. Dips that used to drag the front spoiler don't now :thumb

Now that the front is done I can't let the rear go untouched.
 
Here's the latest update. Ordered KYB shocks from EBay $27 ea good price :D
A week later they arrive. First one I look at is nice and shiny. The second one is someones take off nasty black oily :mad. Email the seller and another is on its way :)

I cleaned all the control arms with mag wheel cleaner. What a difference look almost like new.
The calipers, brackets, rotors are now painted. Even cleaned the inside of the wheels.

Got everything back together. Flushed out the brake system. The fluid had turned sort of green.:ugh I'm back on the road better than before. Dips that used to drag the front spoiler don't now :thumb

Now that the front is done I can't let the rear go untouched.

You can get KYB shocks new from tirerack.com for about the same price.. :upthumbs
 

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