Oil Pan

[minifridge1138]

Hey everyone,

I have a pretty good amount of oil under my car, and I think that it is just the oil pan gasket. (It isn't valve covers or oil filter).

How difficult is it to replace the gasket? I know i have to remove the oil pan. I also see some of the steering linkage runs under the pan. Do I need to disconnect the steering linkage to remove the pan, or is there space to get the pan out without removing anything?

Thanks for the info.

 

[Artsvette73]

I dropped the idler arm and was able to get the pan off

 

[JohnZ]

Also helps to turn the engine so the timing index mark on the balancer is at 5 o'clock (as viewed from the front); this gets the front crank counterweight up out of the way and provides more clearance to get the front of the pan past the crossmember.

 

[minifridge1138]

Alright, I'll remember that.
The shop manual i have says to use a special tool to disconnect the idler arm. Andy idea what special tool it is talking about?

 

[76okievette]

It just unbolted on my 76 no special tools required.

 

[JohnZ]

Alright, I'll remember that.
The shop manual i have says to use a special tool to disconnect the idler arm. Andy idea what special tool it is talking about?

Just remove the two bolts where it attaches to the frame; you don't need to separate the joint where it attaches to the relay rod.

 

[Vette79]

Can someone send a pic of the idler arm where it needs to be disconnected from the frame to remove the oil pan? I have a small leak, I think from the rear of the pan which then leaks down into the torque converter cover. I suppose the rear main seal could be the problem as well. The rear main seal was replaced 15 months ago though. Is there an easy way to tell if it is the rear main seal or oil pan gasket? I also heard that you could clean up the rear area of the oil pan and use RTV to fix the issue instead of dropping the pan but this is probably temporary. Any info on replacing the oil pan gasket would be very helpful as I want to do this myself including where to get the gasket set, type of RTV and best ways to remove and install all the components. Thanks all...Jeff.

 

[minifridge1138]

This would also be very helpful to me.

Thank you!

 

[JohnZ]

Here's the steering idler arm attachment to the frame - just remove the two bolts and drop it down to get more clearance below the pan. The procedure for rear main seal replacement is shown in detail in the Service Manual; be sure and use the little white plastic tool that comes with the seal as you roll the upper half of the seal into place or the sharp edge of the seal groove will damage the seal.

 

[WhiteKnight]

While your at it might as well ge one of the correct fitting one-piece oil pan gaskets, for 75-85 sbc is felpro P/N OS34510T.

It should be available through your local parts house for around $25.

They work real well and come with all new pan cover bolts...

Do ensure the rails/lips on both block & pan & lower timing cover are VERY clean & lower timing cover lip & pan's rails are VERY straight.


FYI ... for 1974 and older is felpro P/N OS34509T

 

[Vette79]

John, what is the second pic of? Rear of the block were the oil pan would go? What is that blue piece?
WhiteKnight, so the one piece gasket set does work better over OEM? Do you need to use RTV at all?

 

[WhiteKnight]

No RTV is not needed.

In JohnZ's second pic it shows the little white plastic tool that comes with the seal, and the blue upper seal being inserted.

 

[Vette79]

Yea but is that the rear main seal or the gasket used for the rear of the oil pan?

 

[WhiteKnight]

Yes it's the rear main seal.. it is a two piece seal.

The photo is looking at the rear portion of the engine with oil pan is removed. The bottom of the picture has the flywheel visible. Also the rear main bearing cap and oil pump are removed. The block in the picture is a two bolt main, and the second large set of holes toward the front of the block are for the oil pump shaft and the oil pump mounting bolt. The upper portion of the two piece seal is just starting to be inserted into the seal grove. Then lower piece of the seal is not shown in the picture and actually sits in the main bearing cap. ( that may not be accurate.. let me check the manual). Yes it's correct.

This should help..

 

[zachh]

Can someone send a pic of the idler arm where it needs to be disconnected from the frame to remove the oil pan? I have a small leak, I think from the rear of the pan which then leaks down into the torque converter cover. I suppose the rear main seal could be the problem as well. The rear main seal was replaced 15 months ago though. Is there an easy way to tell if it is the rear main seal or oil pan gasket? I also heard that you could clean up the rear area of the oil pan and use RTV to fix the issue instead of dropping the pan but this is probably temporary. Any info on replacing the oil pan gasket would be very helpful as I want to do this myself including where to get the gasket set, type of RTV and best ways to remove and install all the components. Thanks all...Jeff.

RTV is a friend, not a fix. I guarantee that if you do that, it'll start leaking again in a week. The bext fix id to change the pan. There isn't anything to do withoil behind the inspection cover with the exception of the rear main seal. If it wasnt put in correctly, itll leak. Sometimes the sealer gets air pockets and oil works its way through.
zachh

 

[Vette79]

My torque converter cover actually covers the rear of the oil pan were the suspected leak is. It appears that to much RTV was used when reinstalling the Oil Pan. The RTV that I can see on the rear of the pan is dripping with oil. What we can see beyond that looks dry. Makes sense to try this first. I am ordering the FelPro one-piece today. I have heard nothing but favorable responses concerning FelPro.
Do I still use RTV and where with this type of gasket? Can't seem to nail down a solid answer.

 

[JohnZ]

Do I still use RTV and where with this type of gasket? Can't seem to nail down a solid answer.

Fel-Pro recommends that you use a small dab of good RTV at the four corners where the main caps join the pan rail; not required anywhere else.

 

[Vette79]

Thanks guys. It's suppose to be very cold over the next week so I will get strated with this project afterwards. With having the oil pan down I might as well repaint it and install new bolts. After this I am replacing my intake manifold and all the pieces that connect to it.

 

[Vette79]

I got the Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set in today. It came with the oil pan bolts and washers. The perma-dry gasket looks impressive. It says to use a small amount of RTV at the junction of the timing cover and cylinder block and the junction of the rear main bearing cap and cylinder block. Does this imply what JohnZ said? Do I use just a dab of RTV on each of the four corners (top and bottom of gasket) or on both the top side and bottom side of the gasket on the entire front and rear of the gasket (curved parts)? Just want to be sure. Little new at this.

 

[Vette79]

Can anyone provide some help?