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Opinions Please

Rowdy1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2001
Messages
1,180
Location
Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Corvette
1962 CORVETTE-SOLD 2004 Z16 Z06 CE
About three years ago and 7,000 miles, I put the current engine in my 62, and at that time a bearing and syncro kit in the trans, an original 62 B/W T-10. This past summer, the bearings in the main shaft went. Now mind you, I do not baby the car, I built the engine to run, and run it does, VERY well. Here's my dilema, I pulled the trans out, put a used B/W T-10 in it but when I did, I had a little trouble getting the trans in the last 1/4 inch. New pilot bearing, same clutch, new through out bearing. I started two of the trans bolts, one in either corner and was able to pull it in where it belongs and button it up. As it turns out, the trans was no good, needs syncro's and has a couple leaks, so, with a full money back guarantee from the seller, I returned it, no questions asked. I then bought a new Richmond Gear Super T-10, changed the clutch (different spline) and pressure plate and played with the lingage to get it right as it's different from the other two. After two hours of pushing, pulling, lifting etc. I couldn't get the trans in. Much to my dismay, I decided to pull the Lakewood scattershield AGAIN, and make SURE the trans fit it, which it does very nicely.
My question is, other than doing a dial indicating on the flywheel (which I had refaced) and scattershield, what the hell could be wrong? I'm thinking (maybe) the reason the bearings went bad in my original T-10 was alignment and now that I have EVERYTHING new, from the pilot to the yoke new, it doesn't line up and that's what I need to have done.
The alignment tool slides in perfect, the trans bolts up to the scattershield perfect, but it doesn't go in when the scattershield is bolted to the block. Am I crazy (well, that's a loaded question) or is that the ONLY thing that can be off? I need to reset the scattershield with offset dowel pins, I'm thinking along with the people I've asked so far. Then again, MOST of them tell me, they've never had to dial indicate to change a trans, clutch whatever.
Any experience in this or tried and true opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah, I have a very nice 11" Centerforce clutch & pressure plate for sale, low mileage.
 
Rowdy are you one of the guys running a b/b in a C1 ?

Anyways to answer what I think is your question.Seems a silly one but have tested the trans input shaft to the pilot bearing and make sure its the correct size

I am not sure of the differences but are the input shafts from both trannys the same length? Is the sholder of the input shafts the same lenght so they go into the pilot bearing the same dept.

Now I had a simular problem with my trans I was 1/2" away and no matter what I did I could not pull it in.(I also took mine back out and double checked what I suggested above) and when I reinstalled it I had the same problem I even used a borrowed a trans input shaft to allign the clutch (I was told the plastic ones cause these problem.I called my father in law to ask him what to do and got my brother in law on the phone and he said "connect the clutch linkage Loosen the trans bolts that you have tight now just about breaking the ears off your transmition (he was right about this)then just have my Lazy sister (my lovely wife)step on the clutch pedal stupid and it will slide right in".Guess what I did what he told me to do and it slid right in with no effort just a slight wiggle.
 
I ALWAYS use a dial indicator setup to verify concentricity of the bellhousing bearing retainer hole to the crank centerline before installing a transmission; just a habit over many years of doing this stuff. I have never found a stock bellhousing that measured out of spec, but EVERY Lakewood or McLeod scattershield I've used has been way out of spec, and required use of Tavia offset dowels to bring them into spec. Nothing will tear up input shaft-to-mainshaft bearings faster than an offset bellhousing.
:beer
 
As I Thought

I was hoping you'd see this and reply John, Thank You. I have a deep respect for what I've seen you reply to, and how you do it. Since I posted this thread earlier today, I read and spoken to many. I'm now totally convinced that the problem is in the bell housing, or in this case, my scattershield.

Thanks Again
Lou
 
I Wish!!!

IH2LOSE said:
Rowdy are you one of the guys running a b/b in a C1 ?

Anyways to answer what I think is your question.Seems a silly one but have tested the trans input shaft to the pilot bearing and make sure its the correct size

I am not sure of the differences but are the input shafts from both trannys the same length? Is the sholder of the input shafts the same lenght so they go into the pilot bearing the same dept.

Now I had a simular problem with my trans I was 1/2" away and no matter what I did I could not pull it in.(I also took mine back out and double checked what I suggested above) and when I reinstalled it I had the same problem I even used a borrowed a trans input shaft to allign the clutch (I was told the plastic ones cause these problem.I called my father in law to ask him what to do and got my brother in law on the phone and he said "connect the clutch linkage Loosen the trans bolts that you have tight now just about breaking the ears off your transmition (he was right about this)then just have my Lazy sister (my lovely wife)step on the clutch pedal stupid and it will slide right in".Guess what I did what he told me to do and it slid right in with no effort just a slight wiggle.

Nope, a small block. I firmly believe that the problem lies in the scattershield as John posted above. It makes sense now, not only the reason the new trans won't fit, but why I toasted the bearings in the old trans. I appreciate the opinion, and yes, I did check the fit on everything before I assembled it.
 

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