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overheating after highway driving at 85-90mph

  • Thread starter Thread starter dlg423
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dlg423

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I installed a GM crate engine and I am still using the stock radiator, I replaced the stock thermostat with 180 degree. around town the temp is stable but when I take the interstate for 10-5 mile run at 80-90 mph and exit, I get a 20-30 degree increase in engine temp while I'm sitting at the light. It cools off gradually when I drive for 5-10 miles. Just wondering if a radiator flush would correct this?
 
Several ideas. Is your lower air dam still intact? At highway speeds they are essential for directing airflow to the radiator.
Is your water pump in good condition, may not be flowing enough at higher engine speeds.
Are the seals around the radiator-radiator support good?
Check for obstructions in the radiator, bugs leaves etc.
Check your lower radiater hose it may be partialy collapsing at higher engine rpms,thus restricting water flow.
Thats all i can think of of the top of my head, others here may have more to add. Flushing the radiator certiantly could'nt hurt either.
Good luck!
 
Scooter 76 is spot on with his advise, especially the lower air dam-it has to be in place for highway cooling.
 
dlg423 said:
I installed a GM crate engine and I am still using the stock radiator, I replaced the stock thermostat with 180 degree. around town the temp is stable but when I take the interstate for 10-5 mile run at 80-90 mph and exit, I get a 20-30 degree increase in engine temp while I'm sitting at the light. It cools off gradually when I drive for 5-10 miles. Just wondering if a radiator flush would correct this?

dlg,
Does you car heat up while on the highway or once you get into slower start and go traffic? Reading this I'm not real sure if I understand :confused

If it heats up while running 80-90 on the highway, airflow sounds like the problem, if it doesn't heat up on the highway... does it heat up just letting it idle with no movement? What kind of fan do you have on your stroker? What is your coolant mixture?
 
Overheatring

A very simple reason for the high temp is the water is circulating too fast for the radiator to cool the liquids. This function can be fixed many times by merely changing to a 195 stat. The 195 will hold the coolant back in the engine allowing the radiator to operate properly. I know it sounds backwards, but it works. :upthumbs
 
I have an "81 4-spd with oil temperature gauage, and oil temperatures run hot. Of course, you may have a larger pan with your crate engine, but I am considering fitting an oil cooler or a larger pan. I run a 160 degree thermostat, with a different switch that turns the auxiliary electric fan on at about 195 degrees. No problem with cooling here in Houston.
 
Thanks for you questons rare 81 and for the other input from various members...It doesn't heat up past normal just idleing after startup but if I take it for a highway run at high speeds, then sit still and idle it does. The coolant mix is about 50/50 and the fan is stock, I'm guessin' that a clutch fan.
 
dlg423:
If it hasn't been done in a few years ... a proper cleaning & flush is in order. In several current service bulletins (i.e. #99-06-02-012D), GM suggests Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner (Prestone P/N AS100) ... GM also has it under GM P/N 12346500 ... it's a dry chemical & about $6 a canister at GM dealer ... very hard to find this anymore at parts houses. Suggest pick up the bulletin referenced above; it's not for a vette but is a solid guideline for most any ... your GM service dept can print out one at no charge. Buy a canister of cleaner & new t'stat & new cap ... spend a half-day cleaning & flushing ... then replace t'stat & cap.

IMHO ... the liquid rad cleaners commonly available at parts houses today (including liquid prestone) are simply too weak to cut any substantial deposits ... don't waste your time w/ liquid. Go with what GM suggests ... it works VERY well and (when used as directed) is safe for aluminum, brass-copper, iron, plastic & steel.

BTW ... I do not use DEX-COOL or other extended-use coolant ... they react w/ air to form a clogging, rusty sludge. After a good clean & flush as above ... I use only the good old green stuff ... it's far less reactive than DEX-COOL. Use green stuff; replace it every two years.
JACK:gap
 
fan

I suspect your fan clutch is bad....if a stock mechanical fan....

might try the radiator sealing rubber around the shroud, not getting enough draw from the fan...too much leakage...

if you had an electric fan, it could be defective motor....bad pole on the motor armature...

GENE
 
I used to get this problem on my '81 after doing around 90-100mph for a while. The temp would climb to a lot hotter than normal, but would drop back down once I slowed down a bit. This was both before & after the rad had been re-cored. Fan clutch was new & water pump was OK, although the seals around the rad had seen better days.

What I found was that fitting a tranny cooler has caused my coolant temps to drop way down &, since fitting it, I have never seen it go over 200. I've got a 180 stat & the coolant temp sits at about 180 & hit 190 after some "spirited" driving in ambient temps of 100F (what a fun day that was :D ). People don't seem to believe me about the tranny cooler but, remembering my college physics, the rate of cooling depends on various things, one being the temp differential. Normally the coolant is pushed through the rad, where the cooler air passing through takes the heat away. But, with the stock system there's also very hot transmission fluid being circulated through the rad. This fluid can be very hot when it goes to the rad, so it's robbing the coolant of some of the cooling benefits of the airstream & could also be heating it up!! So, even with a nice stream of cool air blasting through the rad, there's still very hot tranny fluid going into one end of it, which just ain't gonna help the coolant lose heat. If you've got a manual then none of this applies, but if you've got an auto then you'll probably find that a SMALL tranny cooler fitted to cool the fluid before it goes into the rad will help a lot. It'll also give your tranny a longer life, but I found that a small cooler was all it needed to get the ideal running temp. A large cooler will probably cool it too much for normal street use.

Another thing with cooling is that you want to push the fluid through the rad quite quickly. As cooling depends on the temperature differential, then allowing coolant to meander through the rad won't be very efficient as it will cool down while in there, decreasing the temperature differential & therefore the amount of heat transfered. You need to push the hot fluid through quickly, so that more heat is transfered to the airstream.

Thermostat value will only affect the minimum normal operating temp. If the coolant is, say, at 220F then a 160, 180 or 195 stat ain't gonna have the slightest bit of difference as all 3 will be wide open.

I'd be very interested in hearing if people with manual transmissions have many overheating problems (assuming the cooling system hasn't got any major problems). Fitting a temp guage in my tranny pan has shown me that tranny fluid can reach very high temps, especially in low gears, or at high speeds, & this hot fluid is just going to compound any cooling problems with the system.

Lastly, since fitting the tranny cooler, I've fitted an aluminum water pump (stock flow rate) & REMOVED most of the visible radiator seals (they were perished and looked horrible, it was an aesthetic thing :) ) & I've still got no overheating problems (ambients were in the 90's).
:beer
 
Water wetter, a 195 degree stat that works properly, and a secondary cooling fan that comes on at the proper time and pulls enough air. Also check for trash between the rad and condensor, and make sure the shroud is installed, the air dam is in place and the clutch on the mechanical fan is working properly. One more thing, make sure the foam "seals" are around the radiator to keep maximum airflow going thru the rad ,not around it.



Taz :w
 
fan clutch fixed it

Thanks for all of the posts regarding my overheating problem. I installed a fan clutch and that was all I needed. Also fixed a master cylinger leak with a gasket. As far as the tranny goes, after 4 trips to the local shop they finally figured it out and now I am leak-free for the first time since I bought the car. I can now park in driveways without worry!
 

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