Paint Type Dilemma

[emf1367]

Well I'm finishing up the sanding of the bare fiberglass and nearing primer stage on the 75 convertible. Finish coat is coming soon but we're at the crossroads for paint type. My local paint shop can still get acrylic lacquer but I've had second thoughts about laying it down.

We've worked hard during this frame off and want to get the highest judging scores possible but at the same time we want to drive this car. That being the case we want to minimize paint damage (chips, etc.) and maximize paint longevity so we're toying with the base coat/clear coat products available today.

Have any of you used the newer paint technology types and had success during the judging stages? Top flight is our goal but I had to miss it because we used bc/cc rather than lacquer.

I'd like to hear the pros and cons of both types? It would be great to hear from those that used both types. I'd like to hear from judges too.

P.S. The paint color is Code 10- Classic White.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JohnZ]

This is a dilemma faced by most NCRS members as they get to the point you've reached in your restoration, and there's no easy answer.

BC/CC is easier and less labor-intensive to apply, and is more durable in the long term, but will get major deductions unless great care is taken to make it "look" like lacquer by dulling the areas that didn't get polished-out at St. Louis originally (body opening jambs, door jambs and facings, hood opening and top compartment lid gutters, underside of the top compartment lid, etc.) and by wet-sanding off the clear buildup on all panel edges. If this is all done correctly, you'll probably only lose 50% of the originality points (22, for "appearance of clearcoat") and still be eligible for all of the condition points. If not done correctly, you could lose ALL originality and condition points (85).

Lacquer is much more labor-intensive to apply and is less durable in the long term, but is likely to get no deductions unless it's over-polished in areas that didn't get polished at St. Louis or has condition issues. If Top-Flighting the car is your primary goal, lacquer may be a good choice for you; on the other hand, if the car is outstanding overall, you can lose up to 270 points and still Top Flight, and an 85-point hit for BC/CC may not knock you out of the park.

If you don't have it already, this link will take you to the revised NCRS Body Paint and Fiberglass judging guidelines for reference:

http://www.ncrs.org/ncc/infofolder/paintguide.html

My '67 was done in BC/CC, and Top-Flighted in 2004 with a 50% paint originality deduction for "appearance of clearcoat"; had it been judged after the new guidelines went into effect, I might have taken a full deduction, as it hasn't been fully "dulled" to "look" like lacquer in all areas, but that was my choice at the time (I'm an NCRS Master Judge).

 

[emf1367]

John,

Thats just the kind of information I was seeking. We want to drive this to most of the meets so I think we too are going to use the bc/cc product. Thanks again for your quick reply.

Eric

 

[Tom Bryant]

One paint that I have had good luck with is Dupont Centari. It is an acrylic urethane that has been around for many years and is available in most any color of solids or metallics. It is tougher than laquer but is not a bc/cc so no deduct for clear. I have sprayed it and then color sanded and buffed it and it looks a lot like laquer if you don't go too far with it. By that I mean don't make it too perfect but you can make laquer too perfect for judging too.

It will dry much more glossy from the get go than laquer but you can knock that down with some 1500 or 2000 in the areas that you want to be lower gloss that John spoke of. Then just glaze it by hand and not buff it back to a high gloss. This takes a little trial and error but you can get the feel without too much effort.

Another meathod would be to experiment with a little flattening agent to get the proper unbuffed laquer look and jamb the car with that in all of the areas that you want to look lower gloss. Then assemble the body, back tape the openings and cover any larger areas and spray the outer surfaces in full gloss. Color sand and buff to a point that the outside takes on that laquer look. You might not fool all of the judges but I'll bet you can get a very convincing finish.

Tom

 

[emf1367]

Tom,

Thanks for the detailed information, it's very helpful.

The last time I painted a car was about 25 years ago and we mixed brands all the time. I've been told by many not mix paint brands these days. Do you know of any problems that might arise if I spray Centari over PPG DP50?

Eric

 

[Tom Bryant]

No. I've been very guilty of mixing brands in the past and have never had a problem either. You could check to see what PPG offers in an acrylic urethane. It would probably perform the same.

 

[paintdaddy]

PPgs most used urethane is Concept.The closest appearance to lacquer is going to be single stage urethane.It is a hard decision ,lacquer doesnt hold up well to the elements and urethanes look to fresh for a long time.