K
kustom_koncepts86
Guest
I want to get my 86 painted but i want to do the prep work my self. How abouts to i start off??? or if any onecan refer me to an internet site that explains it that would be great. Thanks
silver 80
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2001
- Messages
- 562
- Location
- madison,wi
- Corvette
- 1980 silver with blk interior 1987 blue / blue
there is a guy in the c3 forum that is using a heat gun seems to be working out great, check the pics.
tom
are you keep the same color? I realy like it and with the blue interior:J
tom
are you keep the same color? I realy like it and with the blue interior:J
- Thread starter
- #3
K
kustom_koncepts86
Guest
thanks i'll look in the c3 forum. yes i'm keeping it the same colour and i just finished the interior with some blue leather and stuff.
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 287
- Location
- Slippery Rock, PA
- Corvette
- 96 GS #145, Blk Int; 85 Red Coupe
I just came across this site, but haven't had much time to check it out. Looks like good info at first glance.
http://www.jht.com/Autopaint/index.cfm
http://www.jht.com/Autopaint/index.cfm
JonM
Well-known member
It all depends if the car has been painted before over the original paint or not. It also depends on the condition of the surface now. Do you want to strip it down to the gel coat? The first thing you want to do is get a can of wax and silicone remover and wash all the wax and silicone off. You don't want to be pushing those two products into the fiberglass. You can have your car media blasted or you can just sand it by hand. DO NOT use chemical strippers. If you are just going to sand it, get a few paint sticks and a bunch of wet/dry sand paper...start with 200 grit and work your way up to 600. (you should ask the guy that is going to shoot the car what grit he likes you to finish with) This is just a small synopsis of what needs to be done. Get yourself that video mentioned above, is not bad.
http://www.scottgrundfor.com/pages/collector.html
http://www.devilbiss.com/diyF.html
http://members.tripod.com/~bobstory/faq.html
http://www.scottgrundfor.com/pages/collector.html
http://www.devilbiss.com/diyF.html
http://members.tripod.com/~bobstory/faq.html
- Thread starter
- #6
J
JAKEJR
Guest
I painted my 86 about 3 years ago using DuPont ChromaBase system. I did it in my garage at home and I'd never painted a car - or anything else for that matter - using a compressor and spray gun before. I used a HVLP gun and just followed the directions and instructions I'd tracked down.
I just took 20 photos of the 3 year old paint job that I can send to you, or anyone else who's interested, showing how it turned out.
My car is a daily driver too so it's exposed to all the hazards that many Vettes don't see.
Email me at
Chippy266@aol.com if you want me to send them.
Jake
I just took 20 photos of the 3 year old paint job that I can send to you, or anyone else who's interested, showing how it turned out.
My car is a daily driver too so it's exposed to all the hazards that many Vettes don't see.
Email me at
Chippy266@aol.com if you want me to send them.
Jake
69MyWay
Well-known member
Remove the moldings, trim, and anything you don't want oversprayed or with tape lines.
Wash the car with strong de-grease dishwasher detergent.
Wash it again,
Wash it again.
Get a bucket of soapy water, and a pack of wet dry sand paper in 320 grit.
Now, with a good rubber block (I suggest a 4" and a 9") wet block sand the car using sweeping ever changing angles and direction with plenty of water to keep from digging any deep scrathes in the car.
After doing the whole car, jump up to 400 grit and do it all again.
You might want to start with 220 or 180 on the bumpers if there is any flaking, cracking, or spider webbing and basically block them all the way down to the rubber. When you see the spider web lines go away, sand just a little more. You can get special SEM rubber bumper primer in a can from the auto paint store to blow those back in, and block to make sure the spider webs are gone.
This method is SLOW, and time consuming. However, using such mild paper will keep a firstimer out of trouble and allow you to really prep and block the surface to perfection.
This is for a car with simply a dead paint job.
If you already have multiple paint jobs on the car, you will need more aggressive methods of stripping it down using stronger grit paper and machines to fast sand, then little by little step to smoother and smoother grit to finish it out.
Wash the car with strong de-grease dishwasher detergent.
Wash it again,
Wash it again.
Get a bucket of soapy water, and a pack of wet dry sand paper in 320 grit.
Now, with a good rubber block (I suggest a 4" and a 9") wet block sand the car using sweeping ever changing angles and direction with plenty of water to keep from digging any deep scrathes in the car.
After doing the whole car, jump up to 400 grit and do it all again.
You might want to start with 220 or 180 on the bumpers if there is any flaking, cracking, or spider webbing and basically block them all the way down to the rubber. When you see the spider web lines go away, sand just a little more. You can get special SEM rubber bumper primer in a can from the auto paint store to blow those back in, and block to make sure the spider webs are gone.
This method is SLOW, and time consuming. However, using such mild paper will keep a firstimer out of trouble and allow you to really prep and block the surface to perfection.
This is for a car with simply a dead paint job.
If you already have multiple paint jobs on the car, you will need more aggressive methods of stripping it down using stronger grit paper and machines to fast sand, then little by little step to smoother and smoother grit to finish it out.
- Thread starter
- #8
J
JAKEJR
Guest
Hey, all. I just posted photos of the paint job I did on my Vette in the Member Gallery section. I also point two of the ChromaLusion paint job I did on my bike on Oct 2002.
Remember, the paint job on the Vette is going on 3 years old and my car is a daily driver. So it gets exposed to all the usual road hazards; flying rocks, rain, dirt, etc.
After posting the Vette photos, I only had enough space left to post two of the bike. One of them shows how dark (burgundy) the paint looks in low light conditions and the other (of the gas tank only since I was working on the bike's carbs and had the bike disassembled and all sorts of tools and towels around it) one of the gas tank gives an idea of how it looks in the light.
The day I took the pics was overcast so the change in color isn't as dramatic as it is on days of full sunshine. But you can see the orange and yellow colors on the tank. Compare that with the dark color of low light.
Hope this helps.
Jake
Remember, the paint job on the Vette is going on 3 years old and my car is a daily driver. So it gets exposed to all the usual road hazards; flying rocks, rain, dirt, etc.
After posting the Vette photos, I only had enough space left to post two of the bike. One of them shows how dark (burgundy) the paint looks in low light conditions and the other (of the gas tank only since I was working on the bike's carbs and had the bike disassembled and all sorts of tools and towels around it) one of the gas tank gives an idea of how it looks in the light.
The day I took the pics was overcast so the change in color isn't as dramatic as it is on days of full sunshine. But you can see the orange and yellow colors on the tank. Compare that with the dark color of low light.
Hope this helps.
Jake
- Thread starter
- #9
K
kustom_koncepts86
Guest
Thanks for all the tips every one and jake those pics look really good. Yes I did get aal the pics
Adam
Adam
- Thread starter
- #10
J
JAKEJR
Guest
kustom_koncepts86 said:
Glad you got all of them, Adam. I posted 18 of them, along with two of the ChromaLusion bike paint job on this site under Member Gallery.
Take care, Jake
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