Parking Brake not working

[LannyL81]

the parking brake has never worked on the car since I have had it, as in does not hold the car. Pull the handle and everything appears to work that can be seen from the outside. I have not taken rotor off....still have rivets in fact, but just wondering what usually breaks so I can order the parts now and be ready.

Thanks,
LannyL81

 

[Copdogcorvettes]

the parking brake has never worked on the car since I have had it, as in does not hold the car. Pull the handle and everything appears to work that can be seen from the outside. I have not taken rotor off....still have rivets in fact, but just wondering what usually breaks so I can order the parts now and be ready.

Thanks,
LannyL81

Lanny81, have you try adjusting the E-brake shoes? If that doesn't do it; Then I would figure on replacing everything shoes & all the small parts as well. Buy the S/S small parts, it well worth it.

E-brakes that are not working are becuase of, Shoe bad , not adjusted, cables frozen, small parts rusted solid.

If you are going to take it apart and don't know what is in there then just replace it all to be sure. One other thing you mite want to think about is replacing the rear rotors as well. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME and be alot happier.

Gary

SAVE the WAVE

 

[LannyL81]

My original thought was to just send both complete trailing arms to Van Steel for rebuilding including having the rotor machined to the run-out. Not exactly a cheap thing to do at around $900 with shipping....but was thinking this is the best way to do it right the first time.

Anyone have suggestions on how to box the trailing arms up? I am thinking separate boxes due to their weight. Lots of packing material and a strong cardboard box is called for.

 

[Copdogcorvettes]

That sounds like a bit much just for the E-brake not working. That's a lot of work and time. Unless there is some problem with the trailing arms why do it. Any good shop that knows Corvettes can rebuild the complete rear brake system in 1 or 2 day for about half of that and have all new brakes on the rear.

I had all 4 calibers replaces, pads, rear rotors, flex hoses, E-brake shoes, small parts and cables replaced last fall parts and all for around $1000.

I'm not saying don't do what you are thinking of; if you can't do it yourself or find a shop in your area to do the work, then send it out is the way to go.

Gary

SAVE the WAVE

 

[LannyL81]

I replaced all the calipers along time ago. Also replaced all the brake lines, parking brake cable and pulley.

My rationale for going the trailig arm rebuild route is that I am pretty sure those bearings are original since the rotors are still riveted in place. The car has 135k on it now and but it is 28 years old, built in St. Louis.

I do not hear any noise out of the bearings, but with sidepipes, I doubt that I would hear much bearing noise anyways.

I have new parking brake shoes to put on...as I thought maybe the old ones are just so worn-out they do not grab at all. I tried pulling on the brake handle about 50 times in hope that they would adjust, but did not.

 

[Copdogcorvettes]

The E brake adjusts through a small hole in the rotor. Thats thye only way to adjust the shoe. There is also an adjuster on the cables where the 2 cables come together.

Gary

 

[LannyL81]

FINALLY took the time and pulled the rear wheels off and tried adjusting the parking brakes...NOPE....adjusters are rusted solid.

Soooo....now the question. Spend the $400+ for each side to be completey rebuilt by Van Steel or just replace the parking brake hardware and worry about the rear bearings/rotors another time. I still think it makes sense to just have it all done by Van Steel....but the $900 is alot to spend, especially on a car that gets driven about 50 miles a month.

Comments welcome.

 

[Peer81]

You can check the rotors yourself. Your shopmanual states a minimum thickniss for the rotors and a minimum after regrinding the rotors. If you don't feel any play in the bearings why sent them to Van Steel for a compleet rebuild?
I think replace the handbrake stuff and go from there.
Good luck!

Groeten Peter

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

My rationale for going the trailig arm rebuild route is that I am pretty sure those bearings are original since the rotors are still riveted in place. The car has 135k on it now and but it is 28 years old, built in St. Louis.

I have new parking brake shoes to put on...as I thought maybe the old ones are just so worn-out they do not grab at all. I tried pulling on the brake handle about 50 times in hope that they would adjust, but did not.

Some later GM manuals mentioned a service interval of around 40K miles for the bearings so you're a little 'overdue'.

The shoes do not waer out as they don't normally get used when the wheels are rotating. If anything they die of boredom and rust. There is also no self adjusting mechanism so pulling on the handle will only build arm muscles.

I'd get the bearings looked at just to safe and do the p-brake at the same time.

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

I agree^^^. To do the e-brake you need to pull the spindle so you mind as well do the bearings. its like $32 a side for bearings if you do them yourself. Good luck.

 

[LannyL81]

I have read a little about the bearing replacement, although not very recent. But I decided some time ago that it would not be worth buying all the special tools needed for a one time job.

So since it has been about 7 years since I made this decisoin, I'll ask the question:
Are all those special tools really needed?

Never mind.....after doing a search and refreshing my memory.....not going to replace them myself.

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

no not at all. All you need to do is fab up a spindle knocker and your good to go. Autozone might have one on the rent-a-tool program. Also for the T/A bushings you can go to home depot and make your own bushing press for probably less than $10. Being out in AZ you shouldnt have a big problem getting the bolts to move but just incase do you have a torch on hand? My car was out in Mass so i pretty much needed to use the torch for every bolt. Take your time and bag and tag all the parts and dont get overwhelmed, you should be fine. Best of luck.

 

[Peer81]

After changing my bearings several years ago I would say. You need the spindle assembly tool (or a grinded old spindle). A micrometer with magnetfixture is a must have and it would be handy to have a friend with a hydrolic press to get the bearings off the spindle. For the rest a nice job to do and you can get is as good as you want (or have patciense for )

Groeten Peter

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Are all those special tools really needed?

Absolutely- particularly for setting up correct clearance on the new bearings and ensuring damage free installation.

 

[LannyL81]

Opinions on both ends.....that is what this forum is all about.

I do have a friend with a press, but do not have the shims or micrometer, or the spindle tool. I also have a torch...must have tool for car work.

I can turn the keeper that holds the alignment shims in place, but have never tried to remove them. Did have an alignment few years back and if they had trouble with, they did not tell me. Of course, they may not have even touched them.

I think the price that Van Steel charges is quite high, but will probably end up having them do everything: clean, paint, bearings, bushings, SS parking brake hardware, new matched rotor. I just do not happen to have $1000 sitting around at this time....or ever. This is the one thing, other than engine block machine shop stuff that I do not feel that I could do.

 

[LVMYVT76]

I had mine done by Van Steel and they did a grat job, with SS emergency brakes and new rotors. All I had to do was bolt them back on.